What oil is best? and what ratio?

[junkman]

Does K2 have any rust protection ?

Does seafoam help with these kind of things ?

I think it does have rust protection
Formula K2 is a very high performance 100% synthetic 2-cycle lubricant utilizing 2000 centistoke esters along with special additives to achieve outstanding levels of protection and cleanliness. Friction and wear, ring sticking and exhaust tract (power valve) carbon are virtually eliminated. Also provides higher levels of rust & corrosion protection.
As for seafoam ,i have never used it ,i do not trust additives in 2 stroke mix beside oil

 

[bwalker]

Does K2 have any rust protection ?

Does seafoam help with these kind of things ?

Seafoam is awesome for lightening your wallet and not much else.
K2 has the calcium sulfonate mentioned above, but it's base oils aren't all that great for corrosion protection.

 

[junkman]

Had to look up MMT ,looks like a substitute for lead that boosts octane ?



MMT = Methylcyclopentadienyl Manganese Tricarbonyl

It's an organmetallic fuel additive used to replace lead and raise octane (mainly RON). This is important because two-strokes usually need and increase in MON to squelch knock.

MMT has zealots both for and against it. As far as I know it isn't used in pump fuel anywhere in the US, but I believe it is used in parts of Canada. The metallic deposits tend to shorten plug and oxygen sensor life, so in a world of 100,000 mile tune up expectations it's unlikely you'll ever see it in US pump fuel.

MMT tends to be less effective at boosting octane as the percentage used increases, and the deposits get much worse as the percentages increase. So it's definitely a case where more is NOT better.

If you look closely at the pictures attached you'll see the electrode edges are really sharp on the plugs even though the deposits are fairly heavy. All those deposits were built up in just over an hour, running about 2 oz/gallon of high percentage MMT based octane booster in a YZF four-stroke that was jetted sharp.

It's actually a pretty good additive if all you want to do is add a few octane points protect your engine from knocking in a pinch, but it generally makes tuning a total nightmare, and comes with some significant side effects on a two-stroke.

Reading plugs with this in the fuel is next to impossible. In a two-stroke the deposits can easily lead to hot spots in the combustion chamber increasing the chance of pre-ignition.

Here's a thread that has some info on a couple of boosters I tested with for reference:http://www.dirtrider.net/forums3/showthread.php?threadid=15450&referrerid=16241

You would be much better served adding a small percentage of leaded race fuel or even AvGas to your premium pump fuel to raise the octane rather than using an additive like this.

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[bwalker]

Had to look up MMT ,looks like a substitute for lead that boosts octane ?



MMT = Methylcyclopentadienyl Manganese Tricarbonyl

It's an organmetallic fuel additive used to replace lead and raise octane (mainly RON). This is important because two-strokes usually need and increase in MON to squelch knock.

MMT has zealots both for and against it. As far as I know it isn't used in pump fuel anywhere in the US, but I believe it is used in parts of Canada. The metallic deposits tend to shorten plug and oxygen sensor life, so in a world of 100,000 mile tune up expectations it's unlikely you'll ever see it in US pump fuel.

MMT tends to be less effective at boosting octane as the percentage used increases, and the deposits get much worse as the percentages increase. So it's definitely a case where more is NOT better.

If you look closely at the pictures attached you'll see the electrode edges are really sharp on the plugs even though the deposits are fairly heavy. All those deposits were built up in just over an hour, running about 2 oz/gallon of high percentage MMT based octane booster in a YZF four-stroke that was jetted sharp.

It's actually a pretty good additive if all you want to do is add a few octane points protect your engine from knocking in a pinch, but it generally makes tuning a total nightmare, and comes with some significant side effects on a two-stroke.

Reading plugs with this in the fuel is next to impossible. In a two-stroke the deposits can easily lead to hot spots in the combustion chamber increasing the chance of pre-ignition.

Here's a thread that has some info on a couple of boosters I tested with for reference:http://www.dirtrider.net/forums3/showthread.php?threadid=15450&referrerid=16241

You would be much better served adding a small percentage of leaded race fuel or even AvGas to your premium pump fuel to raise the octane rather than using an additive like this.

Attached Files:

• 
  a" style="margin: 0px; padding: 10px 10px 0px; overflow: hidden; zoom: 1; border-radius: 5px; background: none center top repeat-x rgb(252, 252, 253);">
• 
  MMT_1.jpg
  File size:
  104.8 KB
  Views:
  1,155
• 
  MMT_2.jpg
  File size:
  61.9 KB

Over the counter octane boosters are useless pretty much and it's pointless to run it in a motor like a LB that has a very low compression ratio.
I dumped the stuff in my fuel to get rid of it because it was better than dumping it on the ground.

 

[junkman]

Saber turns my plug brown in the saw hmmmmmmmmm.
Wonder what the head looks like ?

 

[bwalker]

Saber turns my plug brown in the saw hmmmmmmmmm.
Wonder what the head looks like ?

Snap a pic.

 

[jake wells]

one station in my area that sells gas contains MTBE and it works wonderfully. smells a little funny compared to the E10 pump gas.

 

[bwalker]

one station in my area that sells gas contains MTBE and it works wonderfully. smells a little funny compared to the E10 pump gas.

I would run it! MTBE is what all fuel should be oxygenated with. It's much better than the scam that is ethanol.

 

[junkman]

Snap a pic.

Here is the plug ,it has some rusty brown color in spots ? ,i am having a hard time getting head pics to transfer off the snap on camera ,will post those later ,but the color looks real nice a greyish black color on the head ,with a little trace of some ash spots ,very minimal carbon buildup on the piston ,can see the machining grooves on the top .

 

[bwalker]

Here is the plug ,it has some rusty brown color in spots ? ,i am having a hard time getting head pics to transfer off the snap on camera ,will post those later ,but the color looks real nice a greyish black color on the head ,with a little trace of some ash spots ,very minimal carbon buildup on the piston ,can see the machining grooves on the top .View attachment 24318 View attachment 24319 View attachment 24320

Looks normal to me. I wouldn't worry about it.

 

[junkman]

Amsoil saber head pics ,the arrow on the piston is pointing at the intake .Looks like some brown on the piston on last image ,the camera lens got covered in oil ,i need to clean it better .

 

[Canadian farm boy]

I've been running saber for a little while now. I'm really impressed with it.
My spark plugs and combustion chambers look identical to the pictures Junkman posted.
The insides of my mufflers are also dry and have a nice tan colour to them.
Like I said I'm really impressed with with amsoil saber.
Oh and fwiw I'm running 40:1 with 91 e-free in all my ported saws

 

[Canadian farm boy]

I know everyone likes pictures so here's a picture of the inside of the crankcase of my ported ms260. I've only run saber in this saw since its been ported.

 

[paragonbuilder]

I know everyone likes pictures so here's a picture of the inside of the crankcase of my ported ms260. I've only run saber in this saw since its been ported.View attachment 24335

Watcha have it apart for Mike?


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[Canadian farm boy]

Watcha have it apart for Mike?


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I tightened the squish. It's was at .025". Now it's at .017".
This is my comp reading after I tightened the squish. I'll note that the rings were "wet" when I took the reading. The comp before I tightened the squish was 225.

 

[paragonbuilder]

I tightened the squish. It's was at .025". Now it's at .017".
This is my comp reading after I tightened the squish. I'll note that the rings were "wet" when I took the reading. The comp before I tightened the squish was 225. View attachment 24338

Cool! Looking forward to see your thoughts on how it runs different.


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[Canadian farm boy]

Cool! Looking forward to see your thoughts on how it runs different.


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Since the NY gtg I've added the intake elbow / v stack and I've tightened the squish. I've managed to gain about 400/500 rpms wot. The saw feels like it has more torque then it did before and also seems to hold higher rpms in the cut.

 

[KenJax Tree]

After seeing these I don't have to look at mine. Looks good enough to me.

Hooray inadequate blue OPE oil!!

 

[sawmikaze]

I tightened the squish. It's was at .025". Now it's at .017".
This is my comp reading after I tightened the squish. I'll note that the rings were "wet" when I took the reading. The comp before I tightened the squish was 225. View attachment 24338

Thats not a worksaw is it ?

 

[Canadian farm boy]

Thats not a worksaw is it ?

I still use it but it's not exactly an everyday work saw.
Wot is over 17000rpms.