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What oil is best? and what ratio?

CR888

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I agree. Alota folks here that work on saws and tested all these oils and have seen the difference internally in their saws are now using the same oil . Wonder why that is? Alota folks jumpin around between oils and say oil is oil and they all work and all they really know is it hasnt burn my saw up yet but they havent seen the bottom or topend to actually know what is goin on in their saw.
I agree some oil is clearly better than others but most oils today will ensure long service life. In many years I have yet to see a failure directly related to oil, have you? My point being find a good oil at a sensible cost that aids combustion and focus your efforts elsewhere improving performance. Saws a low output commercial two strokes that are far from high BMEP performance 2T's. They simply don't need performance oil, quite the opposite. I could easily replace a pro saw each year by not buying performance oil and have better performing saws. I get guys like talking oil and are passionate about their choice but rarely are there choices based on rationality and often they are not doing themselves or saws any favours. I say choose a cost effective oil that works and focus your thoughts in other areas. I'm a sucker too, I drop in here and read the oil thread for what reason I myself are not sure. FWIW I'd be more concerned about a the base stock of an oil than its additive package, certified rating or claim to be synthetic. Synthetics were originally designed/made for extreme temperature aircraft turbines as they evolved making extreme heat. A saw will NEVER see this heat environment, and most synthetics are not that synthetic. Price is what tells you how synthetic an oil is as is costs a chit load to make. It does'nt combust well, produces varnish/glazing eventually leading to blowby has poor ring seal, irritates ya eyes, stinks & real stuff costs plenty. I am not sure what there is to like about it really.
 

Keith Gandy

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If your saw runs flawless for the next 10 years on Klotz and mine runs flawless on Saber what did you benefit that i didn't?
What if mine last 20 and yours 10?
I agree some oil is clearly better than others but most oils today will ensure long service life. In many years I have yet to see a failure directly related to oil, have you? My point being find a good oil at a sensible cost that aids combustion and focus your efforts elsewhere improving performance. Saws a low output commercial two strokes that are far from high BMEP performance 2T's. They simply don't need performance oil, quite the opposite. I could easily replace a pro saw each year by not buying performance oil and have better performing saws. I get guys like talking oil and are passionate about their choice but rarely are there choices based on rationality and often they are not doing themselves or saws any favours. I say choose a cost effective oil that works and focus your thoughts in other areas. I'm a sucker too, I drop in here and read the oil thread for what reason I myself are not sure. FWIW I'd be more concerned about a the base stock of an oil than its additive package, certified rating or claim to be synthetic. Synthetics were originally designed/made for extreme temperature aircraft turbines as they evolved making extreme heat. A saw will NEVER see this heat environment, and most synthetics are not that synthetic. Price is what tells you how synthetic an oil is as is costs a chit load to make. It does'nt combust well, produces varnish/glazing eventually leading to blowby has poor ring seal, irritates ya eyes, stinks & real stuff costs plenty. I am not sure what there is to like about it really.
Did u see the difference in wear on my 550 between Klotz kl200 and stihl oil on the piston? Probably 15 tanks on the kl200 and 2 on the Stihl oil and it scored the piston in 2 tanks? Ya it will keep ruunning on that Stihl oil but which oil do u think is protecting better?
 
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Keith Gandy

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I agree some oil is clearly better than others but most oils today will ensure long service life. In many years I have yet to see a failure directly related to oil, have you? My point being find a good oil at a sensible cost that aids combustion and focus your efforts elsewhere improving performance. Saws a low output commercial two strokes that are far from high BMEP performance 2T's. They simply don't need performance oil, quite the opposite. I could easily replace a pro saw each year by not buying performance oil and have better performing saws. I get guys like talking oil and are passionate about their choice but rarely are there choices based on rationality and often they are not doing themselves or saws any favours. I say choose a cost effective oil that works and focus your thoughts in other areas. I'm a sucker too, I drop in here and read the oil thread for what reason I myself are not sure. FWIW I'd be more concerned about a the base stock of an oil than its additive package, certified rating or claim to be synthetic. Synthetics were originally designed/made for extreme temperature aircraft turbines as they evolved making extreme heat. A saw will NEVER see this heat environment, and most synthetics are not that synthetic. Price is what tells you how synthetic an oil is as is costs a chit load to make. It does'nt combust well, produces varnish/glazing eventually leading to blowby has poor ring seal, irritates ya eyes, stinks & real stuff costs plenty. I am not sure what there is to like about it really.
Did yall read any of Redbulls test? The higher viscosity dirtbike oils out performed the cheaper lower viscosity oils? Im not understanding where u think say for example any of the Klotz oils arent combusting or arent performing? Wonder why all the guys runnning cant saws run Klotz?
 

CR888

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I know ya gonna post a big pic of a Klotz oil bottle!lol:roto2palm: After you find a good oil you would be better off testing the fuel quality that you mix it with. Probably for less than $50 bucks with a tin can some chilling ice, a pressure gauge (0-10psi) some tube and JB weld you could make your own RVP tester and test the volatility of you gasoline so you get clean burning max power producing mix in ya saw.Ya know that tshhhhh you get when you shake ya mix can and open the lid giving a great smell.....well that's the pressure of your fuel escaping. Those 'front ends' are what you don't want to escape and keep in your gas. Better off testing that so you know what gas source is the freshest best quality for your saw. About 5psi is great 1 or 2 not so good. What I'm getting at is their are other things that your probably better off focusing on.
 

Keith Gandy

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Fellows its simple for me. Ive tried all these oils and took saws apart more than I wanted to and saw the difference in wear and combustion. I know what my 5 ported expensive saws and ope equipment are gonna get in them and just tryin to share with everyone what I have seen /feel is a better oil. Makes no difference to me what everyone runs if it makes your nuts fuzzy go for it fellows. Do I think my equipment will last longer on Klotz? Yes from what I have seen
 
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Keith Gandy

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I know ya gonna post a big pic of a Klotz oil bottle!lol:roto2palm: After you find a good oil you would be better off testing the fuel quality that you mix it with. Probably for less than $50 bucks with a tin can some chilling ice, a pressure gauge (0-10psi) some tube and JB weld you could make your own RVP tester and test the volatility of you gasoline so you get clean burning max power producing mix in ya saw.Ya know that tshhhhh you get when you shake ya mix can and open the lid giving a great smell.....well that's the pressure of your fuel escaping. Those 'front ends' are what you don't want to escape and keep in your gas. Better off testing that so you know what gas source is the freshest best quality for your saw. About 5psi is great 1 or 2 not so good. What I'm getting at is their are other things that your probably better off focusing on.
That is something I am more interested in is fuel quality rather than oil . Ill leave this oil debate to other guys as I have found what Im lookin for in an oil :)
 
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KenJax Tree

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Comparing Klotz to Stihl orange bottle or any dyno oil isn't a good comparison, the results are pretty predictable.

Run the same test with a good synthetic oil like Red Armor
and see if the results are the same.

Yours will probably last 20 but mine won't last 10 but engine failure and the oil isn't gonna be the reason mine didn't last.
 

Keith Gandy

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Comparing Klotz to Stihl orange bottle or any dyno oil isn't a good comparison, the results are pretty predictable.

Run the same test with a good synthetic oil like Red Armor
and see if the results are the same.

Yours will probably last 20 but mine won't last 10 but engine failure and the oil isn't gonna be the reason mine didn't last.
Have u used Red Armor Chris?
 

Brewz

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I have tried a few different oils now
The worst was the Stihl ultra. I noticed marks develop on the exhaust side of the piston after just 2 or 3 tanks. It will now be used as drill cutting oil.
A couple cheaper "fully synthetic" oils which tend to output offensive fumes which I dont care for.
The Klotz Benol is yet to prove itself in my saws but I find the fumes to be non eye and nostril burning. I actually like the smell and if it provides good wear resistance, i will stick with it.

Here is a question to question the "any oil will do" theory, which I dont totally disagree with.
Why do manufactures make different products which would clearly have to cost $$$

You would think they would find what works best via testing and sell it?
 

sawmikaze

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This topic pops up again and again, whispers and rumors.
Kevin is a great guy, I have had positive dealings with him and wouldn't hesitate to do so again.
He told me about his bad experiences with Eric in the past.
I have also had positive dealings with Eric and I consider him a great guy as well.

How is this possible and what's a fat lazy saw nerd to do?

The two things are not mutually exclusive.
Life is too frickin' short for enemies, I take both guys as I find them, same with plenty of other guys who might be divisive figures.
To me both are great guys and good friends.
Screenshot_2016-04-29-09-18-36-1.png
 

stihl sawing

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I have tried a few different oils now
The worst was the Stihl ultra. I noticed marks develop on the exhaust side of the piston after just 2 or 3 tanks. It will now be used as drill cutting oil.
A couple cheaper "fully synthetic" oils which tend to output offensive fumes which I dont care for.
The Klotz Benol is yet to prove itself in my saws but I find the fumes to be non eye and nostril burning. I actually like the smell and if it provides good wear resistance, i will stick with it.

Here is a question to question the "any oil will do" theory, which I dont totally disagree with.
Why do manufactures make different products which would clearly have to cost $$$

You would think they would find what works best via testing and sell it?
Well damn, All mine must be locked up and broke then.
 

P.M.P.

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