What oil is best? and what ratio?

[junkman]

Man that scope would be nice. With the airfilter off can the scope be snaked through the carb throat with the piston at TDC to see the bottomend and underneath side of piston?

I think i tried through the carb but was trying to see when piston was down ,i will have to try with piston up and see what can do

 

[Mastermind]

Most of the dirt bike oils do not idle good or rev quick in my fs80 string trimmers Am looking for one can run in everythimg,the mx2t is not bad and has almost no smell, the dumonde was another good in all, a little ash wont bother me too much if they run better

Have you tried 2R?

I ran 5 quarts of it at 32:1 through all my stuff. So far, it's been my favorite oil.

The Blenzall is good too, but it's too cold to use it now.

 

[junkman]

Have you tried 2R?

I ran 5 quarts of it at 32:1 through all my stuff. So far, it's been my favorite oil.

The Blenzall is good too, but it's too cold to use it now.

I have ran only a quart bottle of that oil,it was pretty good but ,milling i seemed down on power for some reason ,certain oils the carb has to be in a one happy spot to run good,some you can turn the screw more spots and still runs good 1\8 either way

 

[Mastermind]

That's interesting.

 

[Mastermind]

I've not looked at the saw forum on AS since I left. Is the oil thread still going there?

 

[mdavlee]

I've not looked at the saw forum on AS since I left. Is the oil thread still going there?

Don't know. I turned off all notifications.

The HP2 wasn't as easy to tune as Klotz. It did seem to lose power on it as well. The cut times went up 2 minutes on the same log. Seems like klotz mixed isn't as picky. The mobil and dumonde is that way also.

 

[mdavlee]

Throw the klotz KL100 or KL200 in the mix. I would like to see it done milling for ultimate effect. I bet one cut would show deposits and how the oil will stay in the bottom end if the cut lasts 2-3 minutes.

 

[mdavlee]

True. The klotz to me does better than 800 for residual oil. They both leave about the same on the crown.

Mobil works good but it's not readily available. K2 does fine in the autotune saws as does 2R and some of the thinner oils.

 

[Keith Gandy]

True. The klotz to me does better than 800 for residual oil. They both leave about the same on the crown.

Mobil works good but it's not readily available. K2 does fine in the autotune saws as does 2R and some of the thinner oils.

As true a statement and the same as what ive seen so far

 

[junkman]

Seems like results are pointing more and more that milling requires: high flash pt, heavy visc oil. Where general cutting the results seem to be more mixed , because the loads that people are showing results for vary.

Of my milling results i think the h1r had the best milling power of what i have tried so far ,i always ran about 2/3 -3/4 throttle with that oil and it pulled good and consistent through the cut giving a nice finish on the wood ,mobil ,h1r and yamalube i seem to be using full throttle more often and the tourque was not the same ,the power fell off easier with those no matter where i tuned it ,but the h1r was the worst in general tree falling and limbing where i was not loading it as hard ,I am wanting to test this amsoil milling now when i get a chance ,i was very happy how the hybrid ran yesterday ,i did not touch the carb from where the mobil mx2t was tuned for and i would say is ran much better ,either that or my chain was extra super sharp this time .I only burned up 2 tanks of fuel with it ,so i do not want to jump up and down doing the happy dance yet though ,lol
The 2r yamalube did run decent in the string trimmers ,the mobil1 ran better though ,with better idle quality ,seems like the smaller the bore the more picky the O.P.E. are on what they run with .The day i had no mix ,and used that ace oil ,the string trimmer ran real good .

 

[Redbull661]

Film strength - the super thin layer that keeps metal to metal contact from happening. The best easily looked at metric for that seems to be viscosity @ 100c.

few more thoughts...

1) In my last test with R50 visc = ~19 , Hp2 visc = ~18 , K2 visc = 13.6 , 2R visc = 8.5. Stihl Ultra visc = 8.5. All the times were relatively close. So I think it's fair to say there is no or very low correlation between visc and cut times.

2) So I don't think a heavy visc hurts performance. Hp2 actually had a slight edge on cut times, cylinder temp, and how the saw felt.

3) At this point in testing - I personally believe film strength is probably the number 1 consideration. And since it doesn't seem to hurt performance. I would rather have a higher film strength than a lower film strength...visc #.

4) I think one of the problems with finding the best oil for General cutting ie. non milling. Might just be figuring the correlation of flash point with how the saw looks internally in conjunction with the ratio of oil/gas mixed used.

5) I also think part of the problem is a lot of this oil is "Racing" oil. So it's formulated to run at max. Which a lot of guys probably don't do. Which is probably fine. But how does that impact how the insides look? ie. I'm sure there is enough oil in the system. But will it create a lot of build up if it's not run at max?

 

[Keith Gandy]

Film strength - the super thin layer that keeps metal to metal contact from happening. The best easily looked at metric for that seems to be viscosity @ 100c.

few more thoughts...

1) In my last test with R50 visc = ~19 , Hp2 visc = ~18 , K2 visc = 13.6 , 2R visc = 8.5. Stihl Ultra visc = 8.5. All the times were relatively close. So I think it's fair to say there is no or very low correlation between visc and cut times.

2) So I don't think a heavy visc hurts performance. Hp2 actually had a slight edge on cut times, cylinder temp, and how the saw felt.

3) At this point in testing - I personally believe film strength is probably the number 1 consideration. And since it doesn't seem to hurt performance. I would rather have a higher film strength than a lower film strength...visc #.

4) I think one of the problems with finding the best oil for General cutting ie. non milling. Might just be figuring the correlation of flash point with how the saw looks internally in conjunction with the ratio of oil/gas mixed used.

5) I also think part of the problem is a lot of this oil is "Racing" oil. So it's formulated to run at max. Which a lot of guys probably don't do. Which is probably fine. But how does that impact how the insides look? ie. I'm sure there is enough oil in the system. But will it create a lot of build up if it's not run at max?

Just the opposite on #5 imo. Too much mix not combusting completely will wash the piston clean?

 

[Keith Gandy]

Just the opposite on #5 imo. Too much mix not combusting completely will wash the piston clean?

The way im thinking for instance with Mikes findings with hp2 the milling ran the saw hotter at 32to1 which had complete combustion and the by product of build on the crown. It would be interesting to see that same saw ran at say 20to1

 

[mdavlee]

I could add another half ounce to the last quart. Would give me 2 tanks of it at 20:1

 

[Keith Gandy]

I could add another half ounce to the last quart. Would give me 2 tanks of it at 20:1

I dont know that the hp2 would wash whats on there already off or not Mike?

 

[mdavlee]

I dont know that the hp2 would wash whats on there already off or not Mike?

I doubt it milling. It won't be as hot as there's one long cut left and then the short 2" stuff.

only one way to find out!



can't hurt. more good info to go off of.

I'll go measure the fuel left and dump what's in the saw back out. It was a new tank so there's no crud or anything in it. I think there's a 40-50 oz left. Another 3/4 oz should hit 20:1

 

[Ron660]

True. The klotz to me does better than 800 for residual oil. They both leave about the same on the crown.

Mobil works good but it's not readily available. K2 does fine in the autotune saws as does 2R and some of the thinner oils.

Looks like any viscosity 13+ at 100C will give plenty of protection....maybe 18+ better for milling. I'd like to know which one is the cleanest burning. Mike, out of all the oils you've used which one has the least buildup or cleanest burning?

 

[Ron660]

Looking foward to finds. Think ill run 800t with 87efree in the 460 tuned to about 14500 for several tanks before I tear it back down for a porting change and ill photo and upload it here. Im running r2 in the 241 and will photo that. Kl200 is ordered and will get ran in the 064 and 390 but thoso may not be torn down for several months before I photo thoso but ill take a peak through the intake

Be sure and clean all those piston crowns first...lol. Run the 800 in the 064 and 390 also to see if there's a difference in buildup. I'm curious because my 660 and 036 piston crown still looks new after using 800....two liters.

 

[mdavlee]

I haven't paid as much attention to piston tops as the skirts and crank. HP2 isn't going to be it milling. 800 can't burn completely when firewood cutting. K2 was pretty clean and didn't make a ton of spooge. Mobil 2t makes a lighter carbon layer pretty quick. R50 and original leave a thin layer. Super can make a mess if it's not burnt completely and just partially. It will look like the ultra on a 661. It did that same thing to a 562. Dumonde made a light gray layer on a piston in about 1/4 tank.

 

[mdavlee]

Be sure and clean all those piston crowns first...lol. Run the 800 in the 064 and 390 also to see if there's a difference in buildup. I'm curious because my 660 and 036 piston crown still looks new after using 800....two liters.

If they're clean the saw is tuned too rich. There should be some build up and a wash pattern The wash can be a little wet but if the whole top is it's tuned too rich where it's inhibiting combustion.