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What oil is best? and what ratio?

Ron660

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What you aren't understanding is using Motul and 24:1 nothing is actually burning.
My muffler isn't wet, I'm tuned over 13800, and my truck and trailer is always full of wood. Something is working. This is the same mix that was tested on a dyno and read over 8 HP! It's combusting.
 

KenJax Tree

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My muffler isn't wet, I'm tuned over 13800, and my truck and trailer is always full of wood. Something is working. This is the same mix that was tested on a dyno and read over 8 HP! It's combusting.
Ok
 

Ron660

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It didnt leave near the oil in the bottomend as Klotz. Sorry ole buddy but been there and already done it. Better use Klotz if u want the best protection in the bottomend and combust up top like it should
The pics I've seen it leaves a ton of oil. How much is enough? If you need more tune richer or add more to your mix....common sense again.
 

Keith Gandy

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Why? Companies make "de-carbon" products to remove excess buildup. Common sense.
Well Stihl makes that for 4 mix motors with valves to prevent buildup under them and Yamaha makes Ringfree for 2 strokes with powervalves . Neither was designed for removing carbon off piston tops ?
 
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Ron660

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Bingo. I see minimal wear on piston and cylinder with kl200.
ANY OIL with a 15+ viscosity you will get minimal wear. Stihl's viscosity, film strength, is around 7 or so. I'll ask this again. Has anyone ever experienced an engine malfunction using ANY brand of oil mixed at 32:1 or more oil? I asked this same question on AS......no one ever said yes. ANY oil at that ratio will be sufficient.
 

Ron660

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Ya the extra oil in the bottom bearings shouldnt be any drag but the extra oil on the piston skirt to cylinder wall may be. Ill stick with 42to1 because i know what wear i was seeing at 32to1 with other oils compared to what Im seeing with Klotz. No doubt in my mind u could run kl200 at 50 to 1 in a ported saw with 0 issues
It's all based on viscosity. Use Motul 8oo road racing, viscosity 20 or so, and you'll get the same protection as a Koltz oil with a similar high viscosity. Lab results are facts not visual observations.
 

mdavlee

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You can see intake skirt wear in a tank with some oils in a little as a tank.

I would bet you would pick up horsepower on the Dyno getting away from 800. I know in my cookie cutting tests it was the slowest.
 
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Keith Gandy

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So motul 800 at 24:1 burns complete?
Leaves nothing on the piston? Just a shiny clean crown?


It's shiny and clean because it's not burning. You can use any oil at 24:1 and get the same results.
I'm tired of beating this dead horse
Theres no sense in trying to explain it.
 

Keith Gandy

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Heres a question. If any of us that port saws and tear them down and see these bottomends and wear on the insides and thought alil carbon on top of the piston was gonna hurt our high dollar saws, why would we recommend and keep using it ourselves!!!???
 

Terry Syd

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The big factor in wear is DIRT. The film thickness of any oil at operating temperatures will only be a few microns thick, but a bit of dust will exceed that thickness quite easily. Spend more time and money on better air filtration and less on oil and the piston/cylinder wear will be reduced.

A proper warm up also helps piston/cylinder wear. I remember reading the results that KTM did on their two-strokes. If they gave an air-cooled engine a 3 minute warm up before putting a load on it - it reduced the wear by 50%. On a water-cooled engine it was a 5 minute warm up to reduce the wear 50%. I start my saw, then put my gear on, by the time I get dressed and walk to where I'm cutting, the engine has warmed up.

Here's an easy way to determine if your oil film strength is adequate - check the rings and the top of the exhaust port. If you see some brown or blue spots on the rings, the film strength is inadequate and the rings have been touching down on the cylinder wall.
 

jmssaws

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The big factor in wear is DIRT. The film thickness of any oil at operating temperatures will only be a few microns thick, but a bit of dust will exceed that thickness quite easily. Spend more time and money on better air filtration and less on oil and the piston/cylinder wear will be reduced.

A proper warm up also helps piston/cylinder wear. I remember reading the results that KTM did on their two-strokes. If they gave an air-cooled engine a 3 minute warm up before putting a load on it - it reduced the wear by 50%. On a water-cooled engine it was a 5 minute warm up to reduce the wear 50%. I start my saw, then put my gear on, by the time I get dressed and walk to where I'm cutting, the engine has warmed up.

Here's an easy way to determine if your oil film strength is adequate - check the rings and the top of the exhaust port. If you see some brown or blue spots on the rings, the film strength is inadequate and the rings have been touching down on the cylinder wall.
I preach to people all the time to warm there saws up.
 

Ron660

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Heres a question. If any of us that port saws and tear them down and see these bottomends and wear on the insides and thought alil carbon on top of the piston was gonna hurt our high dollar saws, why would we recommend and keep using it ourselves!!!???
When you got that used 390xp, why did you clean the piston crown clean? It was coated thick with crud. If it wasn't a concern why the cleaning?
 
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