What? No bandsaw milling threads?

[Czed]

Pictures or it never happened.

Here's all you need to watch

 

[Stump Shot]

@Mastermind
One easy trick you can do to make a straighter, better grade of lumber when you're sawing, is to "split the taper". What this entails is to take one half of the difference between the small and big end of the log and shim that amount under the small end so as to cut a straighter grain. So, for example you have a difference of 1-1/2" between the two ends of the log, place a 3/4" shim under the small end with the aid of a large pry bar. Now your first cut will take one half the taper out and when flipped, take the other half out, which gives you less cut across the grain, yielding a straighter board, plank or beam when dried. Repeat the process when turned on its side. It's not like you're wasting anything, as you can only get out of a log what the small end will give you and your completed projects will turn out much nicer.

 

[5155]

Great tip for the shim. I didn't get it at first then duh, this saw runs horo. Best thing I've found for covering stacks of lumber or firewood is rubber roofing.
A roofer friend may bring large chunks from a tear off.
Few gallons of gas or a box of beer may twist his arm.

 

[Sawdust Man]

@Mastermind
One easy trick you can do to make a straighter, better grade of lumber when you're sawing, is to "split the taper". What this entails is to take one half of the difference between the small and big end of the log and shim that amount under the small end so as to cut a straighter grain. So, for example you have a difference of 1-1/2" between the two ends of the log, place a 3/4" shim under the small end with the aid of a large pry bar. Now your first cut will take one half the taper out and when flipped, take the other half out, which gives you less cut across the grain, yielding a straighter board, plank or beam when dried. Repeat the process when turned on its side. It's not like you're wasting anything, as you can only get out of a log what the small end will give you and your completed projects will turn out much nicer.

This is correct boss... and it actually increases yield per log, as well as the quality of the lumber.

 

[lehman live edge slab]

A fella on the YouTubes has a video on touching them up with a chainsaw chain grinder. He thinks it helps. LOL

One company sells a chainsaw grinder with a different bed to sharpen the blades manually. Guess they work ok but they want 400$ for one, I brought my uncle a cheap Chinese chainsaw grinder and showed him what they were selling so we’ll see what he comes up with in his machine shop.

 

[lehman live edge slab]

My grandson and I bought a bandsaw yesterday. The Woodland Mills HM122 with an extra section of track. I was wondering who else here had bandsaw mills. I'm gonna need sharping tips and stuff.

I have an hm126 that I built my own trailer for because I didn’t like the factory one for 2000$ extra. Need to get one more section of rail but trailer is already set up to bolt it on. I’ve tried 4-5 different blades anywhere from 32 thousandths thick up to the 55 thousandths thick. Some of the carbon steel blades dulled soon as you hit any dirt in a log. The thin blades seem to wander in the cut if you start getting dull at all in spruce or other soft wood with large knots. The last blades I bought were woodmizer silver tip 55 thousandths thick and they are by far the best of the ones I’ve used. I cut some wood with visible dirt and they kept cutting and even after cutting for quite awhile they still cut flat just slower as they got dull. I cut around 200 not so clean small poplar and red pine with 3 blades. Got around 400 boards total from the logs so they were only getting 2 boards on average was a ton of flipping and cuts through mud. They recommend the 55 thousandths only on high powered mills 22 ish and above but not sure why my 14 seems to do just fine with them.

 

[lehman live edge slab]

I have an hm126 that I built my own trailer for because I didn’t like the factory one for 2000$ extra. Need to get one more section of rail but trailer is already set up to bolt it on. I’ve tried 4-5 different blades anywhere from 32 thousandths thick up to the 55 thousandths thick. Some of the carbon steel blades dulled soon as you hit any dirt in a log. The thin blades seem to wander in the cut if you start getting dull at all in spruce or other soft wood with large knots. The last blades I bought were woodmizer silver tip 55 thousandths thick and they are by far the best of the ones I’ve used. I cut some wood with visible dirt and they kept cutting and even after cutting for quite awhile they still cut flat just slower as they got dull. I cut around 200 not so clean small poplar and red pine with 3 blades. Got around 400 boards total from the logs so they were only getting 2 boards on average was a ton of flipping and cuts through mud. They recommend the 55 thousandths only on high powered mills 22 ish and above but not sure why my 14 seems to do just fine with them.

I use my chainsaw mill to break down big logs to fit or make slabs, looked at the hm 130 but 2000$ for an extra 4” capacity didn’t add up for me. Very low number of log’s between the 26 “ and 30” that a 130 will do that mine won’t. Then the rest are too large and I need a chainsaw mill anyway. Hopefully you bought the 9hp upgrade. I use a cup of pine sol per tank of water for milling instead of dish soap. Winter I use blue window washer.

 

[nbbt]

I must resist, not enuf time for another project. Which would likely lead to more building projects.

 

[lehman live edge slab]

I must resist, not enuf time for another project. Which would likely lead to more building projects.

Yep I need to saw some 2x4’s for a new deer stand this weekend I hope, have the logs ready just need to mill. Need to make my lap siding jig also so I can cut siding for my house for next summer.

 

[Mastermind]

Thank you for the advice. We have a 20' poplar on the mill now that we are gonna use to make a solid bed.

 

[Mastermind]

Yep I need to saw some 2x4’s for a new deer stand this weekend I hope, have the logs ready just need to mill. Need to make my lap siding jig also so I can cut siding for my house for next summer.

Tell me about the siding jig please.

 

[lehman live edge slab]

Tell me about the siding jig please.

You just make a hinged attachment that lays on the bed you can clamp a can’t in. You lift the one side up and have a lock or wedge that slides in holding the can’t higher on one edge than the other 3/4-1” depending how much taper you want on your lap. Make a cut with cant tilled then the next flat remembering to only lowered the mill 1/2 as much on the flat cut because you already have a thick side from the bevel cut. Some people just use a wedge shape board under the can’t but I’m going to use angle hinges and a lock lever of some form to make the bevel cut. Still working out the final design

 

[lehman live edge slab]

This is the latest project, 3 spruce burls with black walnut bow ties. Unfortunately they were too wide to re saw with my band mill so had to make a jog for the chainsaw mill. Only thing I used off the band mill was the rare for my area black walnut. The problem is I enjoy milling, building with wood, fixing chainsaws and sawing with a chainsaw. Day job gets in the way of it all though playing a welder so I can pay for what I’d much rather do. Guy I’m friends with is still trying to talk me into a Stihl dealership but don’t think I want to go that deep in it,

 

[Mastermind]

You just make a hinged attachment that lays on the bed you can clamp a can’t in. You lift the one side up and have a lock or wedge that slides in holding the can’t higher on one edge than the other 3/4-1” depending how much taper you want on your lap. Make a cut with cant tilled then the next flat remembering to only lowered the mill 1/2 as much on the flat cut because you already have a thick side from the bevel cut. Some people just use a wedge shape board under the can’t but I’m going to use angle hinges and a lock lever of some form to make the bevel cut. Still working out the final design

Got it. My house has beveled siding on it. We had a planeing mill in town resaw it from 5/4 x 8. They've been out of business for a long time now, and we need a few hundred bf of siding....

 

[Johnmn]

Got it. My house has beveled siding on it. We had a planeing mill in town resaw it from 5/4 x 8. They've been out of business for a long time now, and we need a few hundred bf of siding....

I think that woodland mills offers a lap siding attachment, not sure of the cost though.

 

[lehman live edge slab]

I think that woodland mills offers a lap siding attachment, not sure of the cost though.

It’s expensive and it actually replaces one of the mill uprights and actually tilts the whole head. I personally don’t like the looks and could see it messing up the accuracy of regular milling. I shaved some 1/16”-3/32” thick strips 8” wide and 8’ long with mine just to see how flat it was.

 

[lehman live edge slab]

Got it. My house has beveled siding on it. We had a planeing mill in town resaw it from 5/4 x 8. They've been out of business for a long time now, and we need a few hundred bf of siding....

My house will have new lap on it just trying to decide what kind, cedar is new impossible to find of size that’s solid anymore. I’m thinking tamarack but have to see if I can keep it straight. I know it gets hard when dry but I’m going to use my crown stapler to install anyway. Cut siding then make a plastic lined tank to soak boards in stain a couple minutes then pull out and stack on horses to dry. Did you upgrade to a 9 hp or get the stock 7.5?

 

[Johnmn]

My house will have new lap on it just trying to decide what kind, cedar is new impossible to find of size that’s solid anymore. I’m thinking tamarack but have to see if I can keep it straight. I know it gets hard when dry but I’m going to use my crown stapler to install anyway. Cut siding then make a plastic lined tank to soak boards in stain a couple minutes then pull out and stack on horses to dry. Did you upgrade to a 9 hp or get the stock 7.5?

Pine is just fine if you keep it off the ground. My grandparents old house has pine lap that is 65-70 years old. It’s 12-18 inches off the ground and they kept a good finish on it.

 

[Johnmn]

Also watch what staples you use, crown staples can bleed causing black streaks to run down the wood

 

[JIMG]