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Moparmyway

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Sure. That's some good suds experimenting. Maybe you'll bring it over someday.
Lemme get this out and check the range. Its buried somewhere in the barn, and once I get home today, its prep for the snow all around my house, and my neighbors. Stray split rounds and large chunks can take out a shear pin/bolt on the snowblower.

Can you use a 25" loop for 404 ?

We will get together soon !
 

Stihlbro

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I'd like some opinions on the compression I'm seeing

In what I have found, using a compression tester, the guage reading is just a reference. It is a static reading that can change with temperature, altitude, hot or cold. Seeing different reading is not abnormal. There is no way to get a dynamic compression reading with the saw running 12000 rpm. What I have found is that when you have alot of cranking compression, the biggest thing to watch for is the tuning of the saw. Here is a example. Lets take your said saw, run and tune it to four stroke but clear up when cutting wood. Back to four stroking out of the wood. Everything sounds good, you can video it and share, everything seems great. But take the same saw out and really work it, non stop cutting, as the motor gets to operating temperature, you will have to richenup the high side a considerable amount. Finish up and let the saw sit over night. Next day the saw will be so rich it went turn 10k. So inevitable you have a saw where you constantly have to tune carburetor. Hope this helps.
 

drf256

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In what I have found, using a compression tester, the guage reading is just a reference. It is a static reading that can change with temperature, altitude, hot or cold. Seeing different reading is not abnormal. There is no way to get a dynamic compression reading with the saw running 12000 rpm. What I have found is that when you have alot of cranking compression, the biggest thing to watch for is the tuning of the saw. Here is a example. Lets take your said saw, run and tune it to four stroke but clear up when cutting wood. Back to four stroking out of the wood. Everything sounds good, you can video it and share, everything seems great. But take the same saw out and really work it, non stop cutting, as the motor gets to operating temperature, you will have to richenup the high side a considerable amount. Finish up and let the saw sit over night. Next day the saw will be so rich it went turn 10k. So inevitable you have a saw where you constantly have to tune carburetor. Hope this helps.
I've actually experienced this. I thought my carb was bad.
 

Stihlbro

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Not at all. So what I ended up with was trying to find a safe tune that when cold you could block up wood till it was warmed up good before any felling. Which resulted in a less than desirable saw. Get the cranking compression down and the problem was cured.
Compression is heat, heat is a enemy, it puts more wear on bearings. This is what I have found.
 

drf256

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The compression is more of a side effect than a goal in this build. The goal is the lower exhaust.

I want to experiment with aluminum braze on the ex roof.
 

David Young

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Can you blow up a bike tire with a bicycle pump......yep

can you blow up a car tire with a bicycle pump..........well yeah just takes longer

can you blow up a tractor tire with a bicycle pump?

depends how much time and gumption you have.


what difference does the length of hose make? pull the saw over until the rise on the gauge stops.


ok bye

David
 

drf256

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Lookin real good Al. I missed this thread till today. Like the way you ponder all the details.
Only way to learn.

These Carbs came from Definitive Dave. I see a performance advantage from the larger bore.

I plan to open the venturi tonight.
 

Mastermind

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Only way to learn.

These Carbs came from Definitive Dave. I see a performance advantage from the larger bore.

I plan to open the venturi tonight.

Remember........

If you open the venturi, you'll have less of a pressure drop there. Then it may pull less fuel.

Just don't over do it.
 

drf256

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Remember........

If you open the venturi, you'll have less of a pressure drop there. Then it may pull less fuel.

Just don't over do it.
What are your thoughts on the small venturi:bore ratio and the lower fuel nozzle on the AM carb.
 

drf256

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I'm going small on it. Like a concentric .015 blend for a total venturi diameter change of .030.

We shall see.
 

paragonbuilder

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The compression is more of a side effect than a goal in this build. The goal is the lower exhaust.

I want to experiment with aluminum braze on the ex roof.
Could you grind a little out of the combustion chamber to drop compression? Or make a reverse popup [emoji33]?


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drf256

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Blended the carb. Went .020, which is .010 over the stock OEM walbro 194. Did my standard muff mod.

Top cover fits like a glove with a little room to spare. Good to know there's extra room under there to leave some cooling fin.

The covers will get some cleanup today, but the saw won't run because of a blizzard here.

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