High Quality Chainsaw Bars Husqvarna Toys Hockfire Saws

Video: 2166 low power, stalling. Diagnosis?

davidwyby

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Yes, now is sawing (and everything else outdoors) season. It's 70* out. Bout 2-3 months left. Summer will be 5 months long 115f - time to be indoors in the A/C playing with saws. I played with porting on the cheap aftermarket cylinder that came on my 2159 with some success a couple years ago. Didn't have small tooling for uppers. I knew I didn't have time to mess with it this winter so I sent it to @Benwa to install the OEM PnC and porting. I used the 395 for felling yesterday and I don't much care to do that again, so want to get the 2166 going with the LW 28" on it by this weekend.

I found an insert that matches the length of the threads on the plug. When the red loctite shows up tomorrow I will give that a shot.
 

davidwyby

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Thanks very much for all the input everyone! I will be able to refer back now when the time comes for hotrodding. I found being able to look back on forums very handy after life pulled me away from saws.
 
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davidwyby

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I like this much better. Faced a longer insert to match the plug for max # threads engagement.
F35A3245-1AE3-4538-9283-AEBB6C5ECC48.jpeg

According to pics online, handle angle is correct...excessive movement I need to investigate more, nothing obvious broken.

A1F7B070-FEA8-4C9C-AF79-551FCD68B59A.jpeg
So...Searched the internets a bit and failed...external tank vent s'posed to be hooked up here?

9D98837C-4B81-4A9F-B713-E9383AB8AD8E.jpeg

Thanks
 

afleetcommand

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I think the time you have spent thinking about is worth something.. put a number on that time and see if you "bought" a cylinder with that value yet, one where you know its a bolt and go :) Time is precious, You only have so much and can't make more. Cylinders are cheap and expendable. And there always will be more. :)
 

davidwyby

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I hear you on the time thing. I wish I could slow it down. :-/

But I'm a fixer. If I wasn't I'd buy a new saw or pay someone to fix it. I still have a few hours of thinking before I hit $150. ;-)

Care to school me on which nipple should have what on this thing?
 

huskihl

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I hear you on the time thing. I wish I could slow it down. :-/

But I'm a fixer. If I wasn't I'd buy a new saw or pay someone to fix it. I still have a few hours of thinking before I hit $150. ;-)

Care to school me on which nipple should have what on this thing?
Doesn’t matter which nipple it goes on as long as the end is open. Stick a piece of hose on each one and blow through them.
 

afleetcommand

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Yeah that tank vent has many forms on those saws, looks like you have the one where after the standard in-tank vent exits to the side, they added this little green nipple with a tube to go back up in the air box. On my 2172 I stick on the first one as the second ( closer to the edge) gets closed off on the case when u run those base plate screws home. I don't get the reason for two, that's a Bob question. Both are thru holes, the one on the edge is a larger diameter and I have to wonder if there was either a slightly different case of plans for more sophisticated venting system. My bet is even though it get pushed into the case , that wouldn't totally seal the little hole anyway, but for me I put them on the first post. That vents straight down into the space between the base plate and gas tank/handle begging the question why bother.
 

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davidwyby

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E6213414-AF5E-4775-9431-B4E42BDC7D1F.jpeg 7515C074-70F6-4586-8B5B-EA40B2E4D7FD.jpeg 50F6BF94-E8AE-469D-B7CF-B82E07AA283E.jpeg 5CE4CC9B-8BC1-4FE7-B2F8-37FEFFFE37FA.jpeg Some more diagnosis this morning before the fam is up and ready after she felt soft n wonky idle yesterday. Compression 140 cold. No crank seal leaks but did find a leak at the air horn. Snugged those bolts, one was a bit loose. Also snugged carb top screws. Still have a stall condition when I spray that area. Maybe a missing gasket or? Does run better though. Strange it feels better throttle wise, didn’t put it in wood yet, but compression is down to 125 warm. Slight soapy water bubbles around the plug when running. I need to double check the red loctite I used, I now have doubts about whether it was hi temp or not.
Wish I had gotten one of those cylinders before they were gone. I’m not tapping out yet :D but @cuinrearview I may need one eventually
 

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Is your plug helicoil/insert flush with top of cylinder? I had a 046 cylinder do that and it was because the helicoil wasn’t sitting flush with top of cylinder so the plug washer couldn’t sit down flat.
 

Lightning Performance

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Is your plug helicoil/insert flush with top of cylinder? I had a 046 cylinder do that and it was because the helicoil wasn’t sitting flush with top of cylinder so the plug washer couldn’t sit down flat.
Ditto for an insert in a chainsaw head I have here. They changed the factory angle... likely a mistake. Machinist says he can make an aluminium insert to not have steel there leaking and working free over time. I'll try it on some saws here.
 

Ronie

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View attachment 279309 View attachment 279310 View attachment 279312 View attachment 279313 Some more diagnosis this morning before the fam is up and ready after she felt soft n wonky idle yesterday. Compression 140 cold. No crank seal leaks but did find a leak at the air horn. Snugged those bolts, one was a bit loose. Also snugged carb top screws. Still have a stall condition when I spray that area. Maybe a missing gasket or? Does run better though. Strange it feels better throttle wise, didn’t put it in wood yet, but compression is down to 125 warm. Slight soapy water bubbles around the plug when running. I need to double check the red loctite I used, I now have doubts about whether it was hi temp or not.
Wish I had gotten one of those cylinders before they were gone. I’m not tapping out yet :D but @cuinrearview I may need one eventually
You could try a new plug, maybe a fresh crush gasket would seal it up. For the air leak, I would pull the cylinder and seal everything up with Hondabond, cylinder base and rubber boot, also check the boot for cracks.
 

davidwyby

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I guess it doesn’t matter too much if there’s an intake leak before the carb as long as it’s not sucking dirt.

The insert is oversize on the outside diameter (3/4”), so the plug seats on it. It may just have been leaking there and a little tighter might do it, or an aluminum washer.

An aluminum insert would be cool, maybe thread it in and then tig it.
 

Ronie

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I misunderstood you on the air leak, I thought you was talking about after the carb.
 

davidwyby

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Yeah I think it’s good after.


...well, maybe leaking in the carb body somewhere. Maybe get a chance to mess with it more tonight.
 

davidwyby

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New plug fresh crush for the win! Old plug/washer was all jacked up. Went over it again with brakleen, no stumbles.

Cuttin’ tomorrow boys.


I do need to either get a spline tool or learn how to delete these limiters. Only saw I have that has them.
 

huskihl

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New plug fresh crush for the win! Old plug/washer was all jacked up. Went over it again with brakleen, no stumbles.

Cuttin’ tomorrow boys.


I do need to either get a spline tool or learn how to delete these limiters. Only saw I have that has them.
If you’re all the way against the limiter on one side, you can push it in with a pic and give the screw a half turn or so in the direction you want and then let it spring back out. It’s a whole lot easier with the correct tool, though
 

davidwyby

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pretty easy, just don’t drop the sproing down the turbro duct, bro

BBA39852-C6C3-4AE8-AE0C-1688F9895620.jpeg 4E918C43-2C22-45E4-B58B-7093280B79DB.jpeg
 
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