Video: 2166 low power, stalling. Diagnosis?

[afleetcommand]

Cylinders are cheap

 

[davidwyby]

View attachment 277133

I think the first one came out because it only had 3 threads in aluminum.

Thinking about this larger OD fully threaded style after shortening in a lathe.


Thing is, the spark plug will have to seal on it and it will have to seal to the cylinder. It's that or maybe Helicoil, but I think the hole may be too large.

I hate to buy a cylinder as I run a machine and welding shop. In my experience, a steel insert in aluminum is a great improvement, but the thin roof of the saw cyl is new to me and a bit tricky.

 

[cuinrearview]

Redbull661 had some thermal readings here or on AS.

 

[afleetcommand]

View attachment 277133
I think the first one came out because it only had 3 threads in aluminum.

Thinking about this larger OD fully threaded style after shortening in a lathe.View attachment 277134 Thing is, the spark plug will have to seal on it and it will have to seal to the cylinder. It's that or maybe Helicoil, but I think the hole may be too large.

I hate to buy a cylinder as I run a machine and welding shop. In my experience, a steel insert in aluminum is a great improvement, but the thin roof of the saw cyl is new to me and a bit tricky.

I'm sure it can be made to work, How much is your time worth, take a new OEM top end for under $150 bucks plus maybe an hour to put it on, vs. the value of your time sorting out the plug and if you leave the cylinder on while monkeying with the hole...dropping chips into the cylinder. Me? counter intuitive, would build it into an old version bearings and all...it's for fun and what I do...money/time no object.

 

[timg]

I'm sure @cuinrearview would treat you right on a good used one David. Might want to take him up on the offer.

 

[davidwyby]

@afleetcommand now going old version sounds like a good idea. I would have to freshen up on the differences.

I don’t know how cost effective it might be, but we might repair bearing bores on cases in batches if it ever came to a shortage.

 

[cuinrearview]

I'm sure @cuinrearview would treat you right on a good used one David. Might want to take him up on the offer.

I wouldn't be so sure, guys named Tim are generally dicks.

 

[Lightning Performance]

Dicks...

I was discussing this in another thread, no bs, the thread-set backing out on repairs

I'm most likely going with Permatex 518 candy red gasket maker with no primer and a lock pin or three. Working temps around 330F*
If it last me a hundred tanks on this 200T ported I'll be done with it long before that.


Waiting on a part number to check the temperature ratings on some green stuff the guy said holds on drill rig parts.

 

[timg]

If I could suggest Kenny. Scrap the gasket maker and use 277 hi temp thread locker. Use a keensert insert. NO Helicoil.

 

[huskihl]

I’d have Shaun weld it or just buy a used one. I’m pretty certain I have one laying around here that could be had pretty easily

 

[Lightning Performance]

If I could suggest Kenny. Scrap the gasket maker and use 277 hi temp thread locker. Use a keensert insert. NO Helicoil.

Same as all the plug inserts. Was just being general to cover both bases. Found another thread discussing this and need to link them up. Waiting on some part "green" numbers to check working temps.

 

[Lightning Performance]

I’d have Shaun weld it or just buy a used one. I’m pretty certain I have one laying around here that could be had pretty easily

Ok , I'll send a PM but I'll run this one myself. If it does fail, again, still have another sealer locker to test. Wasn't my fix the first time. Pinning inserts has rarely failed even on hydraulics if you use teflon tape and only set the pins two threads deep.

 

[timg]

Ok, I get ya. I'm not being a dix ha ha.
Green cylindrical bore lockers.
Red 268, 272 hi strength thread lock.
Orange 277 hi strength, hi temp thread locker

 

[davidwyby]

Www.wymoreinc.com

we better be able to fix it

 

[afleetcommand]

I've been blending the X-torq crabs to OE cylinders with good results, and if u can find a 51.4 it's a little lower RPM design that fits well with the X-torq 13,300 limited ignition I have a box full of X--torq "take offs" from me building them back for the local guys I would sell for $50 bucks plus shipping or the entire lot for $150 plus shipping. 4 or 5 in there. Did a bunch of video's blending the 48mm to X-torq's and 51.4's along with itemizing the differences.

Differences:

 

[afleetcommand]

Building a 48mm Jonsered 2165 out a junk pile mostly X-torq parts around the cases which are X-torq 2166/2172 cases.

 

[afleetcommand]

You can RADICALLY improve on what I did here if you have a machine shop , a better die grinder etc, as I made a policy decision on the channel NOT to use my lathe or machine tools because all that does is sell the concept the saw won't run well unless you have those tools or spend money on some one who does... SO everything is "tools from lowes" builds

 

[afleetcommand]

So these three video's are about you seeing the parts , every one of them required to mix OE to X-torq

 

[timg]

Www.wymoreinc.com

we better be able to fix it

I would say so David. LOL!!
I had to look on my laptop. At first glance on my phone I thought that was an impact rock crusher!! LOL!!
Good stuffers going on there @afleetcommand. Thanks for the peek.

 

[afleetcommand]

My advice?? Stay X-torq and buy a new OEM top end from HLSupply as the first best choice. Second choice still stick with X-torq, get a couple of used ones and get the saw going. Start learning the porting game on yours after u fix it...with the transfer covers, playing with the ports is simply a die grinder away where with OE's its hard to get to the transfers without a very small angle head grinder. So STAY X-torq, hopefully new and keep making money vs. playing with saws.