The SCARR Husqvarna 592XP build thread.

[Skiptooth Fred]

Yes , under the stock cover , ur probably running an open version filter assuming ? that’s why ur cleaning it so often? , It lasts , all depends on the wood ur cutting , but it takes awhile before cleaning and recoiling the filter , the breather holes help air flow to with the frozskin covers ,

No not open. Run original factory filter with one of my own foams over the top all under the original stock cover/top.

 

[Squareground3691]

No not open. Run original factory filter with one of my own foams over the top all under the original stock cover/top.

This company has some good pre- filters ,

Categories - Outerwears

Category

www.outerwears.com

 

[Skiptooth Fred]

I been running mine now since new 3/2022 the first of them in Au’ will try post pics here of pre filter. & use Notoil products.

This company has some good pre- filters ,

Categories - Outerwears

Category

www.outerwears.com

 

[Skiptooth Fred]

This company has some good pre- filters ,

Categories - Outerwears

Category

www.outerwears.com

Did consider this style of over or a cover style filtering, same as external road bikes and Harley’s use, supposed to keep water out too? but not sure how it would go, was told wouldn’t work but I never tried them as it was expensive to buy it and then cut it up and make it fit to trial

 

[Squareground3691]

Did consider this style of over or a cover style filtering, same as external road bikes and Harley’s use, supposed to keep water out too? but not sure how it would go, was told wouldn’t work but I never tried them as it was expensive to buy it and then cut it up and make it fit to trial

My 2100 likes them ,Lol

 

[jacob j.]

I been running mine now since new 3/2022 the first of them in Au’ will try post pics here of pre filter. & use Notoil products.

Geeze Fred, you sure are cutting some ugly wood. Great pictures!

 

[Skiptooth Fred]

Geeze Fred, you sure are cutting some ugly wood. Great pictures!

And all full of silt and sand from previous floods. I don’t get many decent pics, most people if they have a camera think getting too close is dangerous! Like I’d let them stay close if it were an issue or at least they’d be told to leave. So you become a speck in the distance! Thousands of these noxious willows down on last job and lots of big ones. In water and a lot frozen at that. 592 makes it a far easier job now. Poisoned willow is like cutting rubber, and it’s very unpredictable at times, centres pop up in them, lots of rotted hearts and torsion. if ya ain’t got a saw that performs fast and hard it’s gunna be a bugga of a day!

 

[Skiptooth Fred]

 

[Squareground3691]

View attachment 389625

I must be sharpening ur chains often, all that grit in the wood ,?semi chisel.404

 

[Skiptooth Fred]

I must be sharpening ur chains often, all that grit in the wood ,?semi chisel.404

Each tank as normal if the goings really good, or can be at times just one cut and find half a stone Full chisel skip 3/8 Carlton or Oregon

 

[Skiptooth Fred]

And one bad arse!! bar to go with it

Prefer the Duralites, and would prefer D009 mount rather than running an adapter on stihl mount, too much movement on mount & D009 has a whisker thicker rails, better life, but no choice over here. Luv these Cannon bars

 

[Squareground3691]

Prefer the Duralites, and would prefer D009 mount rather than running an adapter on stihl mount, too much movement on mount & D009 has a whisker thicker rails, better life, but no choice over here. Luv these Cannon bars

Show me the money , Lol

 

[Hinerman]

View attachment 389625

Great pics; love the rooster tail of water. Hope you didn't hit one of those rocks! The big stick over your head scares me!

 

[Woodwackr]

View attachment 389625

Half doz…or so… sticks of dynamite and a D-8 for cleanup would be safer in that monster
What a mess.

 

[Skiptooth Fred]

Great pics; love the rooster tail of water. Hope you didn't hit one of those rocks! The big stick over your head scares me!

, if scared i wouldn’t touch it simply as that

 

[Skiptooth Fred]

Half doz…or so… sticks of dynamite and a D-8 for cleanup would be safer in that monster
What a mess.

And more fun with less sweat

 

[dthieme]

Since there was some questions on mandrels for cutting the base I figured I'd go over how I like to make them.

This is for the 53mm bore (2.085") so I started with a 6" long 2.25" diameter chunk of 6061 T6 aluminum. I cut the end flush and skim cut the surface where it will ride in the 3 jaw for the rest of it's life. I do this so I know I'm clamping on a concentric, flat surface as the raw material surface can be out of round and not exactly flat. I also put a healthy radius on the back edge to keep it from getting caught up in the chuck when clamping and prevents getting a raised edge from misshandling.

View attachment 318243

Then I flip that around and chuck it up, give it a good wiggle as you tighten the jaws so it seats in as true as possible. Then mark jaw #1 so I always put it back in the chuck the same way. Since I have my lathe, jaws and mandrel all marked I'm able to chuck the mandrels back in and bump them out to practically 0 runout across the whole surface.

View attachment 318244

Then I cut to the bore size -0.0005", don't forget to let it cool back down to room temp before your final few cuts. Then I under cut it so you can cut the base or skirt extension all the way to the bore, usually around 0.2" diameter will be enough. I also like to machine the end with a 1/4-20 center tapped hole and a slight recess.

View attachment 318245

That's because I like to put some 80-100 grit sand paper on the end for traction. With the paper I've been able to take 0.02" cuts on the base, but not on a large diameter, interrupted cut like these 585/592 cylinders... I'll stay below 0.015" cuts.

The sand paper also works great to clean up a squish band, remove some debris damage or just check how flat one is by the witness marks.

View attachment 318246

Thanks for sharing this great info! Do you know roughly what Ra finish the mandrel is where it mates with the bore? Do you polish this surface at all or with it being aluminum is it not a huge risk to the plating if it does slip? Planning to build my first mandrel and I was debating between aluminum and a hard acetal. I can get drops of Delrin at work for next to nothing.

 

[srcarr52]

Thanks for sharing this great info! Do you know roughly what Ra finish the mandrel is where it mates with the bore? Do you polish this surface at all or with it being aluminum is it not a huge risk to the plating if it does slip? Planning to build my first mandrel and I was debating between aluminum and a hard acetal. I can get drops of Delrin at work for next to nothing.

Not sure of the RA of the finish as I don't have a meter. I leave the finish as is after a light finish pass, I would only polish it if I needed to slightly adjust the slip fit. Your mandrel should not slip when cutting the base but the aluminum poses no threat to the plating if it does, you'll likely slightly effect your 0 on the base if it eats into the squishband or vise versa.

I stick with aluminum as it's the most rigid and it doesn't get roughed up by the chuck too much.