STIHL The Official Stihl Chainsaws Thread

[hacskaroly]

i see too many saws a year with melted brake housings to want to put any of that sort of heat into a saw.... it builds fast, and wears stuff out quick...

For the few years I worked repairing/selling saws, for the Stihl's that had melted brake housings, it was due to crap getting between the case and the brake band and then with the brake band disengaged, it would still press against the clutch, overheat and melt during use. Saw it a lot with MS 271s.

 

[bogieboy]

For the few years I worked repairing/selling saws, for the Stihl's that had melted brake housings, it was due to crap getting between the case and the brake band and then with the brake band disengaged, it would still press against the clutch, overheat and melt during use. Saw it a lot with MS 271s.

Most of the overheated ones i have seen the owners have admitted to firing the saw and leaving it on fast idle to "warm up" while they donned thier protective gear then "all of a sudden the saw started to smoke profusely".....

 

[hacskaroly]

Most of the overheated ones i have seen the owners have admitted to firing the saw and leaving it on fast idle to "warm up" while they donned thier protective gear then "all of a sudden the saw started to smoke profusely".....

It was rare that we had someone admit to doing something stupid...most would claim that it was most definitely beyond a shadow of a doubt a warranty issue that should be fixed for free. Even have those who claim they "always" use 50:1, have a scored top end, full tank of 50:1, but a carb full of straight gas

 

[heimannm]

This one came in in February, customer said entirely his fault. He did not read the instructions correctly and left it on high idle with the brake set for several minutes to warm up. Very low hour 291, the clutch itself was overheated to the point the clutch springs were totally slack and the shoes just flopped around.







I kept the clutch in my collection of "Here's and example of what not to do" stuff.

Mark

 

[sawmikaze]

I am aware of that.... 2.0 did, and i never calibrated those with the brake on either.... never said it was specific to my 3.0 calibration... my 261 was a 2.0 when i got it.... have since changed the coil to a 3.0 coil out of a 362...still dont use the brake for calibrations... i see too many saws a year with melted brake housings to want to put any of that sort of heat into a saw.... it builds fast, and wears stuff out quick...

side note....i have been a certified stihl tech since 2015.... I have worked on and recalibrated more saws than most....

That's awesome you have worked in a stihl shop for 10 years.

How do guys that kill trees for a living re calibrate a 3.0 m-tronic without using the chain brake ?

I have 17 m-tronic saws alone that require the 3.0 calibration that we kill trees with 5-7 days a week, if there's a way I can go to my garage right now and do it without the chain brake I'm gonna be excited.

 

[bogieboy]

That's awesome you have worked in a stihl shop for 10 years.

How do guys that kill trees for a living re calibrate a 3.0 m-tronic without using the chain brake ?

I have 17 m-tronic saws alone that require the 3.0 calibration that we kill trees with 5-7 days a week, if there's a way I can go to my garage right now and do it without the chain brake I'm gonna be excited.

Same as with the brake? Lever to triangle, start saw, idle for 30 sec, then pin throttle, does 3/4 max rpm rev limit for 30 sec, then goes full throttle.... done....

 

[bogieboy]

That's awesome you have worked in a stihl shop for 10 years

Also side note, did work....LOL moved from upstate ny to eastern TN a few weeks ago, and am now at an echo/shindiawa shop....they are who was hiring, and aside from having to work on more echos, i am not complaining

 

[Sloughfoot]

The echo/shindaiwa is a vastly superior product.

 

[sawmikaze]

Same as with the brake? Lever to triangle, start saw, idle for 30 sec, then pin throttle, does 3/4 max rpm rev limit for 30 sec, then goes full throttle.... done....

I'm trying that before I even start a truck tomorrow morning.

 

[SawAddictedFarmer]

The echo/shindaiwa is a vastly superior product.

Stihls are better!!!

 

[singinwoodwackr]

Stihls are better!!!

Neotech!

 

[Hoser]

How well are 241’s regarded? Will they pull .325 and oil it?
I don’t have much of any experience with the smaller saws

 

[heimannm]

I did put the 1140 007 1802 solenoid and fuel filter in the MS362C and the saw did exactly what it is supposed to do. In the end that was pretty easy.

Now, where to I get another 1140 007 1802 set?

Mark

 

[sawmikaze]

How well are 241’s regarded? Will they pull .325 and oil it?
I don’t have much of any experience with the smaller saws

If you are gonna run .325 on a 241 use the NK RSP chain. I have a 62 driver set up for one and it rips.

 

[Hoser]

I’m good there. Damn near all I can get is narrow kerf RS pro.
It won’t see a big load, I just like to keep chains the same dl and pitch when I can

 

[lehman live edge slab]

I'm trying that before I even start a truck tomorrow morning.

I was going to say I have done a reset on 3,0 mtronics without the brake, I believe it’s in the manual just for safety purposes.

 

[lehman live edge slab]

I'm trying that before I even start a truck tomorrow morning.

I was going to say I have done a reset on 3,0 mtronics without the brake, I believe it’s in the manual just for safety purposes

I did put the 1140 007 1802 solenoid and fuel filter in the MS362C and the saw did exactly what it is supposed to do. In the end that was pretty easy.

Now, where to I get another 1140 007 1802 set?

Mark

just order from a dealership if any are close, believe it or not has been the cheapest for me pretty sure most eBay sellers just buy at dealership and resell for profit. Doesn’t hurt to have one white kit and one green to replace the old black ones.

 

[heimannm]

Is this the green solenoid you are referring to?



Thanks,

Mark

 

[lehman live edge slab]

Is this the green solenoid you are referring to?

View attachment 473077

Thanks,

Mark

That’s it, that’s the universal one for black solenoid replacement

 

[Sloughfoot]

My new to me 026 doesn't cold start with the usual routine. Takes a lot of pulls to get gas to the top of the cylinder. Starts on a prime with one or two pulls. Not the only issue I'm having with this new AM carburetor. It doesn't respond to idle speed adjustment and was flooding with the metering lever at the right height. Bending it down stopped the flooding. Adjustment screws are also hard to engage. They're smaller than stock so not snug in the grommet. Tool slips off to the side more times than not.
Anyone have a fix for the cold start or complete wt194 they'd sell?