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STIHL The Official Stihl Chainsaws Thread

hacskaroly

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i see too many saws a year with melted brake housings to want to put any of that sort of heat into a saw.... it builds fast, and wears stuff out quick...
For the few years I worked repairing/selling saws, for the Stihl's that had melted brake housings, it was due to crap getting between the case and the brake band and then with the brake band disengaged, it would still press against the clutch, overheat and melt during use. Saw it a lot with MS 271s.
 

bogieboy

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For the few years I worked repairing/selling saws, for the Stihl's that had melted brake housings, it was due to crap getting between the case and the brake band and then with the brake band disengaged, it would still press against the clutch, overheat and melt during use. Saw it a lot with MS 271s.
Most of the overheated ones i have seen the owners have admitted to firing the saw and leaving it on fast idle to "warm up" while they donned thier protective gear 🤣 then "all of a sudden the saw started to smoke profusely".....
 

hacskaroly

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Most of the overheated ones i have seen the owners have admitted to firing the saw and leaving it on fast idle to "warm up" while they donned thier protective gear 🤣 then "all of a sudden the saw started to smoke profusely".....
It was rare that we had someone admit to doing something stupid...most would claim that it was most definitely beyond a shadow of a doubt a warranty issue that should be fixed for free. Even have those who claim they "always" use 50:1, have a scored top end, full tank of 50:1, but a carb full of straight gas :D
 

heimannm

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This one came in in February, customer said entirely his fault. He did not read the instructions correctly and left it on high idle with the brake set for several minutes to warm up. Very low hour 291, the clutch itself was overheated to the point the clutch springs were totally slack and the shoes just flopped around.

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I kept the clutch in my collection of "Here's and example of what not to do" stuff.

Mark
 

sawmikaze

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I am aware of that.... 2.0 did, and i never calibrated those with the brake on either.... never said it was specific to my 3.0 calibration... my 261 was a 2.0 when i got it.... have since changed the coil to a 3.0 coil out of a 362...still dont use the brake for calibrations... i see too many saws a year with melted brake housings to want to put any of that sort of heat into a saw.... it builds fast, and wears stuff out quick...

side note....i have been a certified stihl tech since 2015.... I have worked on and recalibrated more saws than most....

That's awesome you have worked in a stihl shop for 10 years.

How do guys that kill trees for a living re calibrate a 3.0 m-tronic without using the chain brake ?

I have 17 m-tronic saws alone that require the 3.0 calibration that we kill trees with 5-7 days a week, if there's a way I can go to my garage right now and do it without the chain brake I'm gonna be excited.
 
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bogieboy

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That's awesome you have worked in a stihl shop for 10 years.

How do guys that kill trees for a living re calibrate a 3.0 m-tronic without using the chain brake ?

I have 17 m-tronic saws alone that require the 3.0 calibration that we kill trees with 5-7 days a week, if there's a way I can go to my garage right now and do it without the chain brake I'm gonna be excited.
Same as with the brake? Lever to triangle, start saw, idle for 30 sec, then pin throttle, does 3/4 max rpm rev limit for 30 sec, then goes full throttle.... done....
 

bogieboy

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That's awesome you have worked in a stihl shop for 10 years
Also side note, did work....LOL moved from upstate ny to eastern TN a few weeks ago, and am now at an echo/shindiawa shop....they are who was hiring, and aside from having to work on more echos, i am not complaining 🤣🤣🤣
 

Sloughfoot

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The echo/shindaiwa is a vastly superior product.
 
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