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STIHL The Official Stihl Chainsaws Thread

singinwoodwackr

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Good luck, there’s a reason Stihl doesn’t really sell them separately and yes the face of the shoe where it rides on clutch wears just like the drum wears and gets sloppy. Especially on climbing saws where the throttle is on and off steady, the climbing saws I work on have the shoes groved from springs and are also needing springs just about once a year. The spurs get changed at least once a summer.
Yup, am aware of all that. I'm just trying to utilize some parts. I'm just asking.
 

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Whelp my heat gun died right when I went to press my 462 cases together - one side at 300* and the other out of the freezer...
New heater on order, as well as some various m5 bolts to use the full threads of the case to pull itself together.

In the meantime, I restored an 026 red lever today, which turned out great! Hard to beat the feeling when a saw fires right up after a disassembly. The original piston still had full machining marks across, and didn't even have much carbon on the roof.

I even had time to build a hillbilly bark box for it. It'll probably get some black paint to hide the low-tier work. hah

20251001_192557.JPG20251001_192544.JPG
 

Sloughfoot

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Whelp my heat gun died right when I went to press my 462 cases together - one side at 300* and the other out of the freezer...
New heater on order, as well as some various m5 bolts to use the full threads of the case to pull itself together.

In the meantime, I restored an 026 red lever today, which turned out great! Hard to beat the feeling when a saw fires right up after a disassembly. The original piston still had full machining marks across, and didn't even have much carbon on the roof.

I even had time to build a hillbilly bark box for it. It'll probably get some black paint to hide the low-tier work. hah

View attachment 471320View attachment 471319
In the middle of an 026 build myself. It's been a fun and easy saw to work on, for the most part.
 

eric4

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In the middle of an 026 build myself. It's been a fun and easy saw to work on, for the most part.
They are surprisingly easy! A big change from taking apart something like a MS441.

Seems like the air filter is a bit restrictive, so I plan to cut the original material, create more openings, and JB weld on some stainless mesh. Then wrap it with an oilable foam cover.
 

lehman live edge slab

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They are surprisingly easy! A big change from taking apart something like a MS441.

Seems like the air filter is a bit restrictive, so I plan to cut the original material, create more openings, and JB weld on some stainless mesh. Then wrap it with an oilable
Mesh style winter filter on eBay for less than 20$
 

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lehman live edge slab

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One of the 500’s came in with the inner felling dog off. Was a 500r and I’m assuming the thing came loose and they were using the spikes to fell a big tree. Snapped the lower mounting screw off, the alloy screws may not be as tough but I guess the benifit was it drilled easily and I got it out with an easy out which I usually have less than stellar results with.
 

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eric4

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The case is back together, but the crank has a lot of drag. Seems like it's brushing against the side of the case? I'll try to heat up both sides of the bearing pockets, and give one side a whack with a mallet

20251002_092302.JPG
 

lehman live edge slab

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The case is back together, but the crank has a lot of drag. Seems like it's brushing against the side of the case? I'll try to heat up both sides of the bearing pockets, and give one side a whack with a mallet

View attachment 471346
Definitely to tight to left side case in photo. So
How did you do this? Put bearings in case halves then put the crank in or bearings on crank then heat pockets and assemble around crank. Should really put bearings in case first so you can see they seated all the way and while there’s some interference on the crank to inner bearings race it’s not as much as bearings to case half. Unless it’s binding on something because of a misalignment somewhere or the bearing not all the way in case the crank should be able to be centered with a dead blow hammer.
 

eric4

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Definitely to tight to left side case in photo. So
How did you do this? Put bearings in case halves then put the crank in or bearings on crank then heat pockets and assemble around crank. Should really put bearings in case first so you can see they seated all the way and while there’s some interference on the crank to inner bearings race it’s not as much as bearings to case half. Unless it’s binding on something because of a misalignment somewhere or the bearing not all the way in case the crank should be able to be centered with a dead blow hammer.
The bearings were already on the crank, when I pulled the cases together using longer case bolts.

This is my first time doing a case split, so I figured I'd be making a mistake somewhere! hah

Sounds like it'll need to come back apart, to put the bearings in the cases first?
 

lehman live edge slab

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The bearings were already on the crank, when I pulled the cases together using longer case bolts.

This is my first time doing a case split, so I figured I'd be making a mistake somewhere! hah

Sounds like it'll need to come back apart, to put the bearings in the cases first?
That’s the appropriate way, really hard to make sure they’re seated in case half all the way.
 

SawAddictedFarmer

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The bearings were already on the crank, when I pulled the cases together using longer case bolts.

This is my first time doing a case split, so I figured I'd be making a mistake somewhere! hah

Sounds like it'll need to come back apart, to put the bearings in the cases first?
I just did one bearings first, put it in the flywheel side first and then pull the clutch side on.
 

lehman live edge slab

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The bearings were already on the crank, when I pulled the cases together using longer case bolts.

This is my first time doing a case split, so I figured I'd be making a mistake somewhere! hah

Sounds like it'll need to come back apart, to put the bearings in the cases first?
That’s the appropriate way, really hard to make sure they’re seated in case half all the way
 

eric4

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That’s the appropriate way, really hard to make sure they’re seated in case half all the way
Darn...makes sense

I'll be putting in an order for that flywheel knocker tool, since I f'd up the threads on the crank, the last time I split this case. Luckily I was able to re-tap/repair them

Think the bearings and seals are salvageable? Or should I just get a new SKF bearing/seal kit while I'm at it?
 

SawAddictedFarmer

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Darn...makes sense

I'll be putting in an order for that flywheel knocker tool, since I f'd up the threads on the crank, the last time I split this case. Luckily I was able to re-tap/repair them

Think the bearings and seals are salvageable? Or should I just get a new SKF bearing/seal kit while I'm at it?
I'd do new bearings and seals as cheap insurance.
 

lehman live edge slab

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Darn...makes sense

I'll be putting in an order for that flywheel knocker tool, since I f'd up the threads on the crank, the last time I split this case. Luckily I was able to re-tap/repair them

Think the bearings and seals are salvageable? Or should I just get a new SKF bearing/seal kit while I'm at it?
Oem bearings, won’t be getting an skf set unless it’s in a Stihl box. They have a proprietary bearing on one side
 

lehman live edge slab

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I’ll post photos later but was trying to gauge the age of a Stihl bar I got on auction yesterday. White West Germany made bar with orange writing on it says rollomatic 6 on it and Stihl in bright stihl orange. 20” .404 with a 3002 mount on it.
 
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