STIHL The Official Stihl Chainsaws Thread

[Sloughfoot]

Piston was in backwards, which sometimes is done if you need clearance for finger ports ect long as it won’t hook the exhaust port or transfers.

This one was unmolested. The arrow isn't visible any longer but I think the scoring was actually on the intake side where pins are.

 

[Maintenance Chief]

It's a 180.

The impulse ports are in different locations from what I remember?
Your carb gasket might be blocking it.

 

[Sloughfoot]

The impulse ports are in different locations from what I remember?
Your carb gasket might be blocking it.

It runs fine, just different. Doesn't scream at WOT when it's too lean, just bogs down.

 

[lehman live edge slab]

The impulse ports are in different locations from what I remember?
Your carb gasket might be blocking it.

25/250 left side ms 180 right. Think you need to slit gasket a little to make it pull vacuum correctly

 

[eric4]

loosen all the case screws and heat the bearing pockets around 300'F it will let go with minimum efforts.

Gave this a go today, and wasn't able to get it split. I loosened all 5 case bolts, heated the pockets to nearly 300* and gave the crank some good whacks with a plastic mallet, and everything remained stuck together tightly... I'll re-attempt!

 

[heimannm]

If there are dowel pins in addition to the screws, drive them out before attempting to split the case.

Mark

 

[eric4]

I was successful on splitting both halves! Time to splice the two good halves together... Any tips on this part? I imagine it can be sketchy to use the case bolts to pull the halves together, but that's all that comes to mind

 

[singinwoodwackr]

I am in need of several buss/carriers for the 200t clutch. It is the same part in the 020t, 201, 192-4 and may be in others. The problem: it isn’t listed as a separate part even when it shows up as such. Every other part of the clutch is numbered.
I did find a “carrier” in the IPL for the ms191, 1121 162 3201.
The carriers in question has 1129 stamped on them. The 191 shoes and retainers are the same part as on the 200t, same pt#s, so, that part of the carrier would match up. But, is the 1121 the same thread size as the 1129?
Does anyone have a pt# for these, or…would the 191 part work?

Or…anyone have a pile of junk clutches for these saws you want to get rid of?
I just need the carriers

 

[oddsaws]

I was successful on splitting both halves! Time to splice the two good halves together... Any tips on this part? I imagine it can be sketchy to use the case bolts to pull the halves together, but that's all that comes to mind

wouldn’t usually advise this but here’s my attempt to help:

You could try the reverse of how you split it.
You’ll need to use the heat, keep it constant. Go slow on the bolts maybe turning each one 1/4 to half turn at a time. Don’t use an impact on the bolts to bring it together.

Then if it the case breaks you can come back and ask where to order the tools

Did you use a flame or heat gun?

 

[eric4]

wouldn’t usually advise this but here’s my attempt to help:

You could try the reverse of how you split it.
You’ll need to use the heat, keep it constant. Go slow on the bolts maybe turning each one 1/4 to half turn at a time. Don’t use an impact on the bolts to bring it together.

Then if it the case breaks you can come back and ask where to order the tools

Did you use a flame or heat gun?

I used a heat gun and an infrared thermometer. Will attempt to re-assemble using the same technique tomorrow! Maybe I'll even put the case half with the crank inside the freezer to reduce the crank size.

 

[oddsaws]

I used a heat gun and an infrared thermometer. Will attempt to re-assemble using the same technique tomorrow! Maybe I'll even put the case half with the crank inside the freezer to reduce the crank size.

I don’t think the case bolts will be long enough to pull the extra width of the crank + bearing. Perhaps check a local auto parts store to see if you can rent a bearing splitter to get the bearing off the crankshaft, and install it back in the case first.

 

[eric4]

I don’t think the case bolts will be long enough to pull the extra width of the crank + bearing. Perhaps check a local auto parts store to see if you can rent a bearing splitter to get the bearing off the crankshaft, and install it back in the case first.

Ok I'll give that a shot.

I realized I was careless when hammering on the crank, and damaged the threads slightly... smart guy! I'll try to re-cut the first few threads with a die as well

Gonna try this technique with the crank - seems like it would work better than using a die

 

[Sloughfoot]

I was successful on splitting both halves! Time to splice the two good halves together... Any tips on this part? I imagine it can be sketchy to use the case bolts to pull the halves together, but that's all that comes to mind

Do it.

 

[lehman live edge slab]

I am in need of several buss/carriers for the 200t clutch. It is the same part in the 020t, 201, 192-4 and may be in others. The problem: it isn’t listed as a separate part even when it shows up as such. Every other part of the clutch is numbered.
I did find a “carrier” in the IPL for the ms191, 1121 162 3201.
The carriers in question has 1129 stamped on them. The 191 shoes and retainers are the same part as on the 200t, same pt#s, so, that part of the carrier would match up. But, is the 1121 the same thread size as the 1129?
Does anyone have a pt# for these, or…would the 191 part work?

Or…anyone have a pile of junk clutches for these saws you want to get rid of?
I just need the carriers

Even if the carriers are available separately why would you want them? The shoe assembly’s wear also not just the drum and springs. So unless you have a bunch of new shoes without wore grooves from the springs and a bunch of new springs laying around not really worth time of changing the carriers out. What happened to all the carriers you had originally? If they were wore out so was the rest of the clutch.

 

[heimannm]

Andy (Lakeside53) had an excellent description of the process using home made tools etc, unfortunately the photos were lost in a hack long ago.

Need help splitting case on my 066

I am in need of some advice on how to split the case on my 066 without damaging anything. I don't have a manual but know there is a great wealth of knowledge on this site about these types of procedures. However I haven't been able to find any on this specific model of saw. If I knew how it was...

www.arboristsite.com

I try to use the threads on the crankshaft to pull the case halves back together, in this instance it was a Jonsereds 910 I believe. The washers and spacers push on the inner race of the bearing and the clutch nut applies the force needed.



That was a while ago...

Mark

 

[old saw fixer]

I used to install the bearings on the crank first, the heat the pocket and drop the crank/bearing assy in. Put the gasket on that side and heat the other pocket then put it together.
Worked for me on many pro saws which was most of my work. Boss wasn't too big on buying a lot of factory tools so I had to do without. The things a young man will do for $10 an hour and all the cold PBR I could drink.

 

[SawAddictedFarmer]

I used to install the bearings on the crank first, the heat the pocket and drop the crank/bearing assy in. Put the gasket on that side and heat the other pocket then put it together.
Worked for me on many pro saws which was most of my work. Boss wasn't too big on buying a lot of factory tools so I had to do without. The things a young man will do for $10 an hour and all the cold PBR I could drink.

If you do it this way just tap the crank back and forth a couple times to center everything and make sure it's not putting sideways pressure on the bearings.

 

[singinwoodwackr]

Even if the carriers are available separately why would you want them? The shoe assembly’s wear also not just the drum and springs. So unless you have a bunch of new shoes without wore grooves from the springs and a bunch of new springs laying around not really worth time of changing the carriers out. What happened to all the carriers you had originally? If they were wore out so was the rest of the clutch.

That is exactly the case. I have a bunch of good and near new shoes and retainers from useless to me, 1123 clutches that use the same 1129 parts. Only the bus is different for the different cranks. These 1123s came in I lot of misc parts I got years ago. On top of that, there are a few sellers on ebay peddling these same 1123 clutches as 200t because the shoes are the same 1129 parts and they probably don't know the difference. Or...
I bought a couple, unaware of the fact that 1129 shoes and 1127 retainers are used on a half dozen other saws.
The main wear part on the 200t clutch, as well as the 1123, is the spring set, not the shoes. The shoes wear grooves into the spring ends. Why buy $40 replacement clutches when I can rebuild the pile I have?

 

[lehman live edge slab]

If you do it this way just tap the crank back and forth a couple times to center everything and make sure it's not putting sideways pressure on the bearings.

Supposed to center the crank no matter what way you do the assembly, definitely don’t want the bearing loaded sideways and binding

 

[lehman live edge slab]

That is exactly the case. I have a bunch of good and near new shoes and retainers from useless to me, 1123 clutches that use the same 1129 parts. Only the bus is different for the different cranks. These 1123s came in I lot of misc parts I got years ago. On top of that, there are a few sellers on ebay peddling these same 1123 clutches as 200t because the shoes are the same 1129 parts and they probably don't know the difference. Or...
I bought a couple, unaware of the fact that 1129 shoes and 1127 retainers are used on a half dozen other saws.
The main wear part on the 200t clutch, as well as the 1123, is the spring set, not the shoes. The shoes wear grooves into the spring ends. Why buy $40 replacement clutches when I can rebuild the pile I have?

Good luck, there’s a reason Stihl doesn’t really sell them separately and yes the face of the shoe where it rides on clutch wears just like the drum wears and gets sloppy. Especially on climbing saws where the throttle is on and off steady, the climbing saws I work on have the shoes groved from springs and are also needing springs just about once a year. The spurs get changed at least once a summer.