STIHL The Official Stihl Chainsaws Thread

[RI Chevy]

Lol. Thanks Mike.

 

[maulhead]

I just picked up a used 2012 MS440 Magnum.
I added the West Coast cover and dual port muffler, and tank handle protector.
Runs pretty good stock. So far.

View attachment 51920 View attachment 51920 View attachment 51921

Looks pretty beat up, I'll PM you my address and since I am a half way nice guy, I'll cover the first $10 of the shipping.....deal?

 

[RI Chevy]

OK. Sounds good.
I cut up these today. Ran pretty good for stock.

 

[dall]

is that all it would cut ?

 

[RI Chevy]

Lol. All I had left. I am going to try and advance the timing and see how it runs. With just a DP muffler, timing advance and retune. Then go from there.

 

[unionvillecountryboy]

I need advice. Putting an OEM top end back on my saw after discovering it had a chinese one. It's a clean 044, should I go for the 046 hybrid? I've read some about these. Some think its great, some say it isn't worth it. Also in consideration is MMWS porting.

 

[RI Chevy]

Get it ported.

 

[unionvillecountryboy]

Get it ported.

I was looking at porting either way

 

[fossil]

Bar oil hole
Do you guys ever open up the oil hole in the guide bars? My 036 pump puts out adequate oil but the hole in the bar is pretty small and I don't know if I should open it or not. I don't think a whole lot is making it down the bar.
It's an Oregon power match bar so it won't be hard to drill.

 

[RI Chevy]

Also, how does one open the hole?
I know with a drill and a bit, but any pointers.

 

[Al Smith]

Yes,get a carbine bit or use a die grinder with a pointy stone .A bar is as hard as armor plate steel .

 

[fossil]

Al,

This is a newer Oregon bar. I'm thinking put some gloves on and push a large finishing nail through the hole.

It's one of the angled holes. It's so small that it will plug fast if you're cutting dry wood.

 

[fossil]

I drilled one of the oil holes out in that Oregon Power Match bar today. Oregon should be ashamed of themselves. It was like drilling aluminum. Especially since I was up near the rail

 

[RI Chevy]

Do you remember what size bit you used? Any photos of the outcome?

 

[Redfin]

quick porting question...how come the intake is shaped liked this? thicker on the left and lower side like that. when porting do you leave most of that there...

If you do decide to grind there be careful you can cut through quick.

 

[fossil]

Do you remember what size bit you used? Any photos of the outcome?

I used a 1/8" bit as that was close to the size on an older bar I have. Not sure what the outcome as far as oiling will be as it was darn cold today and I felt like I was coming down with a bug so I didn't fire the saw up.
I stuck a piece of sheet metal in the bar groove so I didn't go too far and got rid of any burrs inside the groove.
I did use a little stone on a dremel type grinder to open the hole slot a bit so the drill didn't snag. I don't think it was necessary as the steel is so soft.

I've been gathering most of my firewood which has been dead white ash. The wood is very dry so some dust when cutting is the norm and little oil holes like this one plug fast.

I will let you know if it helped any after I run it.

Before and after pics

As made



Drilled out to 1/8"

 

[Dub11]

I drilled one of the oil holes out in that Oregon Power Match bar today. Oregon should be ashamed of themselves. It was like drilling aluminum. Especially since I was up near the rail

Well it could explain why I just paid 50$ from Amazon for a 24" bar

 

[RI Chevy]

Thank you sir. [emoji106]
@fossil

 

[fossil]

Well it could explain why I just paid 50$ from Amazon for a 24" bar

I think they're OK for occasional use. If you're an everyday firewood cutter I doubt it.

I get what I would call chatter marks on the rails which I'm guessing come from the tie straps when the cutters rock back when biting into the wood. Not sure how that will pan out over time.
I would guess if you ran a loose chain the bar would wallow out pretty fast in the wear areas top side ahead of the tail and at the rear of the tip.
They used to make hard bars. They can only live on their good name for so long with crap like this. I would definitely buy a Forester or Laser bar of the same type. At least they are priced right for what they are.

 

[fossil]

I was thinking maybe it's time to start a bar oil hole thread with questions like,

What kind of bar oil is right for (list and insert all sizes of bar oil holes here) for my hole?

Answer tough but intriguing questions like, I have a bar with the hole size listed in letters. What if my hole is an A hole?

Should I do the angle / chamfer oil hole mod?

Eventually moving towards the more complex mysteries of.

Does the paint on the bar keep enough heat in to thin the bar oil in winter? leading to....

If my hole mod flows more oil, do I have to add an extra layer of paint for winter and take it off for summer?