STIHL The Official Stihl Chainsaws Thread

[FergusonTO35]

Thanks so much. Side job shop has the oiler in stock, I'll pick it up tonight. Is it pretty easy to replace? I've replaced them on Echoes but not on a Stihl. How many drive links for the 3005 000 7013 bar?

 

[bogieboy]

Thanks so much. Side job shop has the oiler in stock, I'll pick it up tonight. Is it pretty easy to replace? I've replaced them on Echoes but not on a Stihl. How many drive links for the 3005 000 7013 bar?

62 drive links on the 7013 bar, stihl chains that fit the bar would be 23 rm, rm3, rs, rs3 all in 62 dl

 

[bogieboy]

As for the oiler, i havent done one on a 250 specifically...looking at the IPL, looks like its one that gets pushed in with a screw... when you pull the old oiler out, take note of how far in the pump is seated, and take note of where the slot in the pump is... slot needs to be oriented correctly, and be the right depth to line up to the driver and oil passages... they make a tool for it, but i have always used an m4 screw instead of the tool...

 

[FergusonTO35]

Sweet, thanks!

 

[Woodwackr]

free to some unsuspecting sucker
AM 046 cylinder, P&C and a 361 P&C
I have no use for them...came in a truckload of parts i bought. I have no idea what brand or where...in China...they came from.
ms361, new, possibly came in this box...don't know

 

[Woodwackr]

046 or 460? cylinder alone
52mm, used, I believe, but seem in good shape.

 

[Woodwackr]

046/460, 52mm
new. odd, split rings

you pay shipping which shouldn't be more than $8 to the lower 48

 

[lehman live edge slab]

Thanks! Now, that 3005 000 4813 appears to be a 3/8" pitch. Would you have the part number for the same but .325? Also, the higher output oiler for a 2023 MS-250 would be a 1123 640 3201 correct?

Sorry about the 3/8” picco on the 16”, that’s weird i couldn’t find a 16” in the thin kerf .325
In the 3005 mount either. Guess i assumed they’d make one but kinda explains why all the 250/251’s I’ve seen wirh .325 .050 have 18-20” bars.

 

[heimannm]

@Woodwackr - I have a box full of 036 parts, do you know if the 361 P&C will work on an 036 chassis? If yes, I'd be interested. Let me know shipping costs.

Mark

 

[lehman live edge slab]

@Woodwackr - I have a box full of 036 parts, do you know if the 361 P&C will work on an 036 chassis? If yes, I'd be interested. Let me know shipping costs.

Mark

No it won’t but I think I have a cylinder for you. 034/034 super and 036 all the same
Family

 

[FergusonTO35]

Sorry about the 3/8” picco on the 16”, that’s weird i couldn’t find a 16” in the thin kerf .325
In the 3005 mount either. Guess i assumed they’d make one but kinda explains why all the 250/251’s I’ve seen wirh .325 .050 have 18-20” bars.

It's all good! It does seem weird that Stihl really insists on the 250 having an 18" bar. Then again, Echo and Husky does the same with their 40-50cc no-pro saws. I guess they don't want to be seen as coming up short! I like the Light 04 .050 bar on my 250, it just needs a bit more oil in my opinion.

 

[bogieboy]

Sorry about the 3/8” picco on the 16”, that’s weird i couldn’t find a 16” in the thin kerf .325
In the 3005 mount either. Guess i assumed they’d make one but kinda explains why all the 250/251’s I’ve seen wirh .325 .050 have 18-20” bars.

They dont seem to make a light 04 bar in 325 natrow, but they do have the rollamatic e that i posted on the last page, 3005 000 7013

 

[Woodwackr]

@Woodwackr - I have a box full of 036 parts, do you know if the 361 P&C will work on an 036 chassis? If yes, I'd be interested. Let me know shipping costs.

Mark

I only have a bunch of 036 cylinders

 

[Wilhelm]

 

[Wilhelm]

 

[Wilhelm]

 

[FergusonTO35]

Finally had a free evening and installed the .65 oiler on the 250. Worst part was removing the clutch. Had to use an impact which I prefer not to do, but it worked. Installation is straightforward and I was certain to mark and line everything up. That done, it oils noticeably better. You can run it half throttle and watch the droplets fly, which I didn't see before.

 

[bogieboy]

Finally had a free evening and installed the .65 oiler on the 250. Worst part was removing the clutch. Had to use an impact which I prefer not to do, but it worked. Installation is straightforward and I was certain to mark and line everything up. That done, it oils noticeably better. You can run it half throttle and watch the droplets fly, which I didn't see before.

Funny you mention that, as i put a bigger oiler in my ms362 this afternoon... LOL funny how a 462 oiler drops right in, and can make a 20" bar dripping wet, throwing a rainbow of oil at full throttle out of the cut

Now it has me wondering what else from a 462 would drop in....

 

[bogieboy]

Ok, heres a question for the hive mind, early MS261CM, straight finned jug, saw was straight gassed, put new cylinder/piston in, started and ran great seating the rings, let it sit to idle and heat cycle after a few light cuts to initially seat the rings, died at idle, thought it ran out of fuel... nope, 1/4 tank still... topped off and attempted starting, saw flooded... found no spark with 3 different spark plugs (ngk that saw was running on, new ngk, and new bosch) and 2 different Stihl ZAT4 spark testers... nothing at all... ohmed out the wiring harness, all connections are solid, 0.1ohm continuity, no chafing anywhere... spark plug lead to ground showed 1.72k ohms, within spec of 1.5-12k ohms, tried a brand new fuel solenoid, no change...

whats the chances that the stupid expensive module is at fault???

Maybe @Mastermind has seen something like this before?

 

[Mastermind]

Ok, heres a question for the hive mind, early MS261CM, straight finned jug, saw was straight gassed, put new cylinder/piston in, started and ran great seating the rings, let it sit to idle and heat cycle after a few light cuts to initially seat the rings, died at idle, thought it ran out of fuel... nope, 1/4 tank still... topped off and attempted starting, saw flooded... found no spark with 3 different spark plugs (ngk that saw was running on, new ngk, and new bosch) and 2 different Stihl ZAT4 spark testers... nothing at all... ohmed out the wiring harness, all connections are solid, 0.1ohm continuity, no chafing anywhere... spark plug lead to ground showed 1.72k ohms, within spec of 1.5-12k ohms, tried a brand new fuel solenoid, no change...

whats the chances that the stupid expensive module is at fault???

Maybe @Mastermind has seen something like this before?

No sir. I see very few issues from the saws I get in here.