STIHL The Official Stihl Chainsaws Thread

[Partner]

Stihl ms180 how to increase the dose of fuel?

 

[Maintenance Chief]

Stihl ms180 how to increase the dose of fuel?

There's a lot of threads and videos on converting them over to the wt215 carburetor from the ms250.

 

[Partner]

how much does a carburetor ms 250 cost?

 

[Ford3000]

All the information you need to add the wt215 carb to the MS180
Your local Stihl dealer will get you one, they are not cheap, but if
your old one is damaged then you have no choice, can you fix the old one?

 

[Ford3000]

Here is a link to a carb, states it fits certain Stihl chainsaws, but I do not think its
a genuine Walbro Carb. There are lots of carbs on this site, but they are difficult
to find as some are not labelled and clicking on them all takes for ever.
https://newgardenstore.eu/en/carbur...hainsaw-blower221923-stihl-1130-120-0605.html

 

[Ford3000]

Is there more than one carb that will fit the MS180,
I see two Walbro carbs advertized as shown in the image below,
and there is a Zama listed to fit the MS250, so will it also fit the MS180.

 

[Partner]

Ms180 ignites well, does not go out, and since it is 15 years old, it probably already has a slight air leak that cannot be compensated because the carburetor does not have H&L screw adjustment

 

[Ford3000]

Ms180 ignites well, does not go out, and since it is 15 years old, it probably already has a slight air leak that cannot be compensated because the carburetor does not have H&L screw adjustment

Best to fix the air leak before damage occurs, not too difficult to do, but
be very careful of the control arm that crosses the saw with the linkages all
hooked up to it, it sits in a C shaped plastic cup / hook, very easy broke, lots of
videos showing these MS180 saws being taken down / apart, if that
C shaped plastic lug on the saw case gets broke, you have to buy a new
body and take every single part off the old saw on to it, very time consuming.
Seems the genuine Carb / wt-215 from the 250 is an expensive one.

 

[Partner]

I looked at us, the prices start from $ 20 and if it lights up and does not go out, I would not undress it yet

 

[Partner]

to make it more interesting, I have a carburetor for ms260 on the shelf

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Your best bet there is to find the rest of the saw instead of trying to adapt that carb to an 1130 series application.

My experience with the 1130s is that they generally scream with whatever carb they happen to have -- generally the Zama C1Qs. No power, of course, but they tend to really wind out once they spool up.

May want to just try cleaning the carb that's on it and see if that helps.

 

[Partner]

I'll see what's inside tomorrow, maybe it's really dirty

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

They have very, very fine mesh inlet screens that can easily become partially obstructed by just a few small particles of debris. Check it very closely.

 

[Ford3000]

Your best bet there is to find the rest of the saw instead of trying to adapt that carb to an 1130 series application.

My experience with the 1130s is that they generally scream with whatever carb they happen to have -- generally the Zama C1Qs. No power, of course, but they tend to really wind out once they spool up.

May want to just try cleaning the carb that's on it and see if that helps.

I so wanted to say this, but given the OP knows there is an air leak and states
he wont fix it, then pointless talking.

 

[Partner]

This is unconfirmed information, just a guess

 

[Ford3000]

This is unconfirmed information, just a guess

I know its 15 yrs old, and spending money on a saw that age can be money wasted,
but time is all it would take to tear it down, open the case and replace the seals and
bearings, and check the rings for wear, put new ring in if needed and piston is ok,
that would be the cheapest regarding getting it up and running, otherwise its a new saw
at a lot more money.
If money is an issue, then even more so get the old one fixed up before any air leak
destroys it.
Those 215 carbs seem very expensive, the original 215 has gone up in price a lot.
Hopefully you can clean the old carb put a kit in it and it will work, but you will
never know unless your sure there is no air leak, if there is one then even the 215
will not run correctly, you could put a carb off 660 on it and if the case is leaking
it still won't pull in fuel.

 

[Partner]

mention here about / toasters / partner there is no way that the box passed the leak test and these chainsaws are still working at 40-50 years old

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Here's an idea..., do an actual leak check to eliminate the guess work and also possibly some unnecessary expense.

Aside from that, something to check are the bolts that hold the engine to the tank housing. They also secure the top end to the bottom end providing the seal between the two and at the crankshaft. Any looseness in any of the bolts will be reason to suspect an air leak without even testing. Tightening any loose bolts may reduce a crankcase leak, but is not likely to eliminate one entirely.

 

[Partner]

I think that having a larger air leak would go out at idle

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

I think that testing for an air leak is the only way you are going to properly correct for one -- or several.

They are like any other type of leak. Large ones need to be fixed to test for smaller ones until none at all are detected.