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DOLMAR/MAKITA The Official Sachs Dolmar Dolmar Makita Dolmar Chainsaws Thread

old_sir_henry

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Looks like a piece of trash bolted onto the saw. If at least the welding had been done
properly, but as it is I agree with @Wilhelm: Deleting the muffler entirely
would at least look better.
Never mind, just my opinion and I wouldn't dare to dictate your's
 

Stefaan

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I was just wondering on what other people's opinion would be on the design performance wise. The welding doesn't look that pretty I admit, but I should not comment on somebody else his welding, since I'm not a welder myself.

I felt like my 9010 was underpowered due to the muffler. Tried to mod it, but ended up trashing the muffler instead (please no comments on that). My cheap ass didn't want to buy a new muffler, since I could swap out my other 9010's muffler.
Then I saw BBR's video on the 9000 with that crazy muffler and thought why not?

Just wanted to hear some oponions before I make something like that.
 

Wilhelm

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Why not just make one out of that trashed muffler of Yours and provide first hand feedback?

On another note, how can One trash a muffler while modding it?
I guess I'll see how my 9010 MM goes once I get to it.
 

Stefaan

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Had to cut it open, because its welded shut on a few spots. That went ok though.

Trying to remove the baffle I deformed the muffler in such a way that it is was beyond repairs. Thought it would be a few taps here en there and it would fall out like on my other mufflers. But no, think it was welded in or something.

Need to make a muffler asap, cause she's getting grumpy just looking at my wood not being able to touch it (pun intended).
 

Stefaan

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6100 troubles!!!


I bought my 6100 new this year (it's a 2012 model though). I may have ran 3 tanks through her so far, but here is the deal. I tried to tune her a million times by now because at full throttle there is a small delay. Thought this might be the reeds that have to loosen up over time, but then I found out that adjusting the H screw that the delay becomes much greater when I turn it in. So it doesn't get enough fuel I thought. Turned the H screw way out and it is better now, but there is still a small hickup when I rev it.

Looked up the factory settings and it should be L 2 1/2 turns out and H 1 1/2 turns out.
I have the L at about 2 1/2 but my H is 3 turns out!!! Turn it in any more and it looks like it's getting to much air and not enough fuel. I can turn the H screw out further, but it doesn't matter how far I turn it out, I can't seem to get it to fourstroke in the cut. Thought there might be an air leak somewhere, but the saw is brand spanking new. Tune all my saws myself, even other people's saws. This is the first stratified engine i've done though.

Is it the carb or am I looking in the wrong direction here? I really want this saw to work perfectly, because it should become my go to worksaw along with my ps420.

Any help would be much appreciated.
 

Wilhelm

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My then newer fueled 2016 PS-9010 took easily 1-3 tanks of erratic behaviour before I was able to tune her steady.
I assumed it was the carbs diaphragm/other fuel related components that needed to settle and get soft.
My PS-9010 runs good now without repairs done to her other than a few carb tunes.

I'd be careful with that PS-6100 of Yours, just because she was NOS does not mean she couldn't have an issue bigger than a carb tune.

Check intake boot and impulse line?!
Check cylinder base and carb bolts for proper tightness. o_O
 

SOS Ridgerider

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6100 troubles!!!


I bought my 6100 new this year (it's a 2012 model though). I may have ran 3 tanks through her so far, but here is the deal. I tried to tune her a million times by now because at full throttle there is a small delay. Thought this might be the reeds that have to loosen up over time, but then I found out that adjusting the H screw that the delay becomes much greater when I turn it in. So it doesn't get enough fuel I thought. Turned the H screw way out and it is better now, but there is still a small hickup when I rev it.

Looked up the factory settings and it should be L 2 1/2 turns out and H 1 1/2 turns out.
I have the L at about 2 1/2 but my H is 3 turns out!!! Turn it in any more and it looks like it's getting to much air and not enough fuel. I can turn the H screw out further, but it doesn't matter how far I turn it out, I can't seem to get it to fourstroke in the cut. Thought there might be an air leak somewhere, but the saw is brand spanking new. Tune all my saws myself, even other people's saws. This is the first stratified engine i've done though.

Is it the carb or am I looking in the wrong direction here? I really want this saw to work perfectly, because it should become my go to worksaw along with my ps420.

Any help would be much appreciated.
Do you have a way to pressure and vacuum test? I think I would start there, so you don’t accidentally burn it up.
Does it idle normally? Even if you turn it on its side?
 

Stefaan

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Do you have a way to pressure and vacuum test? I think I would start there, so you don’t accidentally burn it up.
Does it idle normally? Even if you turn it on its side?

It does idle correctly on al sides. It's just curious that the H is turned out 3 times and still doesn't fourstroke all the time in the cut
 

ajschainsaws

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Damn surprised you know of the Kennedy tunnel in Antwerp Andrew! Most famous for it's traffic jams. But I have to agree on that Ferrari thing you mention though.

Spent plenty of time in that traffic jam before the crash barriers went up and after and also when they put the speed limit down
there’s no alternative realy to going through the tunnel when you need to go north and east
 

ajschainsaws

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I was just wondering on what other people's opinion would be on the design performance wise. The welding doesn't look that pretty I admit, but I should not comment on somebody else his welding, since I'm not a welder myself.

I felt like my 9010 was underpowered due to the muffler. Tried to mod it, but ended up trashing the muffler instead (please no comments on that). My cheap ass didn't want to buy a new muffler, since I could swap out my other 9010's muffler.
Then I saw BBR's video on the 9000 with that crazy muffler and thought why not?

Just wanted to hear some oponions before I make something like that.


On a stock muffler you can drill into the baffle and make the holes bigger without
Splitting it
 

Stefaan

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Spent plenty of time in that traffic jam before the crash barriers went up and after and also when they put the speed limit down
there’s no alternative realy to going through the tunnel when you need to go north and east

You could take the liefkenshoektunnel and avoid the ring entirely. You would have to pay though.
 

ajschainsaws

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You could take the liefkenshoektunnel and avoid the ring entirely. You would have to pay though.


Yes That was an option but I had a 12m pferde wagen and most times I had
The big Aushanger behind I’ve got caught on the Paris ring road when there doing construction at night and they’ll send you of any exit which isn’t fit for trucks
 

huskyboy

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I was just wondering on what other people's opinion would be on the design performance wise. The welding doesn't look that pretty I admit, but I should not comment on somebody else his welding, since I'm not a welder myself.

I felt like my 9010 was underpowered due to the muffler. Tried to mod it, but ended up trashing the muffler instead (please no comments on that). My cheap ass didn't want to buy a new muffler, since I could swap out my other 9010's muffler.
Then I saw BBR's video on the 9000 with that crazy muffler and thought why not?

Just wanted to hear some oponions before I make something like that.
With an hour of swearing and a carbide burr... 55D91F59-A9A3-47C2-9BCE-41D881F24ED6.jpeg62B51B04-B999-45F1-9316-DF4C355C7089.jpeg 0DECCF77-15BC-42C0-88E1-B44B45DF7AB1.jpeg
 
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