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DOLMAR/MAKITA The Official Sachs Dolmar Dolmar Makita Dolmar Chainsaws Thread

old_sir_henry

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My latest project is about to finish so its time o present some pics of the proceedings.
Its a 116siH I shot in ebay early in January. Since the saw was in located in Hamburg where I
work fetching her home was just a 15 kilometer diversion from my normal way home.

The saw had been advertised as PS-6000i but from the pics it was apparently a 116si or a 120si.
116si turned out to be right.
116si_arrival_leftside.jpg

116si_arrival_break_cover_guts.jpg

116si_arrival_exhaust-port.jpg

116si_arrival-heating-switch.jpg

116si_arrival-lots-of-dirt.jpg

She was very dirty, and when I say that, I mean really greedy & sticky dirt, the mother of dirts maybe. The handle heating's switch was garbage as were the power lines to the wrap-handle. First I thought I could fix them but the connectors to the heating foil had been torn off the foil which therefor
was destroyed beyond repair. I didn't even test electrical resistance since the handle's hose has a deep scar where most likely the heating foil is also damaged.
When dissecting tank & body one has to unscrew the heating elements from the rear handle in order to disconnect the electrical
lines. Unfortunately the heating foils had burnt themselves into the body of the handle and stuck to it and thus broke when I undid them.
Chain brake had been tampered with but still in acceptable state other then the coating of the shell.
Piston however in excellent shape, pressure test passed with flying colours.
 

old_sir_henry

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Oh yes I will, I know the 116si since I still have another 116siH which I do use as often as my PS.6100. Very nice saw to work with!

Here is a pic of the remains of one of the rear heating foils that stuck on back handle. The rest of the foil, where not in direct contact with the handle, stayed at its carrier...

116si_rear_handle_heating.jpg

I then decided to remove the broken heating, maybe I'll have some use for the generator sometimes.
I closed the opening for switch by attaching a small alu-plate to the saw body and filling the opening
with epoxy.

116si_closing_handleswitch_opening-1.jpg

116si_closing_handleswitch_opening-2.jpg

When hardened, I sanded te surface, fillered and sanded again.
Most time I spent cleaning the body and since the dirt was so tough every little bit needed mechanical help — brake cleaner and grill-oven spray didn't do it.
 

old_sir_henry

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I did meter the resistance of the generator is about 60 Ohm which is what I would expect and consider OK.
But since the heating foils are broken multiple times, I didn't try to repair them.

Today I tried to start the saw, but it wouldn't run, it wouldn't even pump fuel into the carb.
I installed a transparent fuel line to have visible feedback. No fuel in the line even after half
a dozen times having given a few drops of fuel into the funnel and run the saw for a short burst.
So carb or impuls are likely the cause. Removed the carb again, check pump diaphragm and gasket
and found it OK, looked at the gasket between carb and flange: OK s well, so I proceeded to remove
the flange as well and voila: in the self cut gasket between cylinder and flange I had forgotten to
punch the hole for impuls. :BangHead:
Fixed that and then the saw fired but died within the first cut or to be precise: After the first cut,
when I release the throttle it didn't went idle but died straight away. Wouldn't start thereafter.
Have changed spark plug, checked lines and switch but no spark before an hour later when
she started again but to die again immediately after releasing throttle.
I'm assuming the ignition module as faulty. Wouldn't be the first one to die on me.

And here are some pics of her, taken before the failed starting attempts:

116si_ready_leftfront_side.jpg

116si_ready_leftrear_side.jpg

116si_ready_rear_side.jpg

116si_ready_right_side.jpg
 

WillG

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Picked this dcs520i up last weekend. Fresh fuel, oil, a new plug, and carb tweaking had it running pretty good. Still have to get a new bar/chain and a bucking spike for it. Still needs some fine tweaking as well.

f37695c3f19ba9b0d54213670dd25ef7.jpg
542f07d882af4ec8e8e8433498a0ab9d.jpg
3dd9e47619cb31ea320112c3ed01bc22.jpg
89f51314cec3c3f7c113d4ba6844ae00.jpg
4c9812965d21a2b511728c606970657b.jpg
74eda78b176687d1a7b73b6a99c5ff14.jpg


Sent from my E6910 using Tapatalk
 

old_sir_henry

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Good day today!
First I repaired my neighbour's old Briggs&Stratton lawn-mover engine and made him happy,
then I managed to get the 116si up and running!

Since yesterday I held the ignition coil suspicous and to prove it, I changed ignition coils with my other 116si which is a well kown runner.
And what happens? Saw ist running first stroke!
But also does the other one with the assumed faulty module.
Both saws don't only start fine but cut as well and even restart well when hot.

No clue what went wrong yesterday but back then I definitely didn't have any spark.

And because of this fine outcome I finally came back to my PS-8700.

ps-8700_poser-1.jpg

That one had been put aside because in an attempt to stop chain oil leaking
I had broken the oil suction line and thus the saw had to wait.
Back in january it would't start for sh*t and I first thought the carb (the modified one) might be the cause.
Tried a stock carb of another 7900 with no success. Then I tried the modified carb on the stock 7900: Runs just fine, starts like a charme. Changed both carbs back.
So once again the ignition module is the culprit? Today a new oil line arrived and getting back to the saw I changed the ignition coils like the carbs before.
Still the 8700 would not start, not even cough. Giving some drops of fuel into to open funnel the saw ignites and fires back into the carb so finally I did get the clue:
Ignition timing!
And right: the key had sheared off the flywheel and the flywheel must have turned a big move in direction to early. But it sat rock steady on the crank. Strange.
The key now is missing from the flywheel, I marked both its position and the notch on the crankshaft
with a fine lacquer marker and remounted the flywheel to match these marks, which is pretty inaccurate to be honest, but the best I can do for now.
And let me tell you: The beast starts and runs now!

My PS-8700 is finally up and running after months of frustration and throwbacks!

A good day today.
 
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ajschainsaws

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Good day today!
First I repaired my neighbour's old Briggs&Stratton lawn-mover engine and made him happy,
then I managed to get the 116si up and running!

Since yesterday I held the ignition coil suspicous and to prove it, I changed ignition coils with my other 116si which is a well kown runner.
And what happens? Saw ist running first stroke!
But also does the other one with the assumed faulty module.
Both saws don't only start fine but cut as well and even restart well when hot.

No clue what went wrong yesterday but back then I definitely didn't have any spark.

And because of this fine outcome I finally came back to my PS-8700.

View attachment 231374

That one had been put aside because in an attempt to stop chain oil leaking
I had broken the oil suction line and thus the saw had to wait.
Back in january it would't start for sh*t and I first thought the carb (the modified one) might be the cause.
Tried a stock carb of another 7900 with no success. Then I tried the modified carb on the stock 7900: Runs just fine, starts like a charme. Changed both carbs back.
So once again the ignition module is the culprit? Today a new oil line arrived and getting back to the saw I changed the ignition coils like the carbs before.
Still the 8700 would not start, not even cough. Giving some drops of fuel into to open funnel the saw ignites and fires back into the carb so finally I did get the clue:
Ignition timing!
And right: the key had sheared off the flywheel and the flywheel must have turned a big move in direction to early. But it sat rock steady on the crank. Strange.
The key now is missing from the flywheel, I marked both its position and the notch on the crankshaft
with a fine lacquer marker and remounted the flywheel to match these marks, which is pretty inaccurate to be honest, but the best I can do for now.
And let me tell you: The beast starts and runs now!

My PS-8700 is finally up and running after months of frustration and throwbacks!

A good day today.

that’s a good day it’s finally running
 

SOS Ridgerider

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I posted this in the 64xx-79xx and Smurf thread, but figured I’d add it here too.

Started as a black top, right side decomp, heated 7301.

Now it’s a red top, left side decomp, heated 7900.

I’m replacing the decals, and thought I had a 7900 bubble decal, but it turned out to be a 7910 decal. Once that’s in place the transformation is complete. Lol
Gutted the muffler for the SLR and added an outlet.

18C1006A-D747-4F7A-B140-986DEEA0781D.jpeg EABFAD04-BD52-4C04-8A84-D5DA71BDB798.jpeg D1D8EB1A-2F9B-4558-9007-AC3AAEAE76D5.jpeg E9789A26-59FF-4A6D-9829-6DD34BC87F7A.jpeg C07E4743-2B40-43EA-8104-23ECEF144FDA.jpeg
 

Johnmn

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I posted this in the 64xx-79xx and Smurf thread, but figured I’d add it here too.

Started as a black top, right side decomp, heated 7301.

Now it’s a red top, left side decomp, heated 7900.

I’m replacing the decals, and thought I had a 7900 bubble decal, but it turned out to be a 7910 decal. Once that’s in place the transformation is complete. Lol
Gutted the muffler for the SLR and added an outlet.

View attachment 231817 View attachment 231818 View attachment 231819 View attachment 231820 View attachment 231821
Very nice looking saw!
 
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