DOLMAR/MAKITA The Official Sachs Dolmar Dolmar Makita Dolmar Chainsaws Thread

[Simondo]

I keep hearing that from people , but I’m on the 40cc-60cc-something large cc plan. And the power losses up at 7,000ft elevation are significant... which has me thinking there is no replacement for displacement... and I have a new Steel 261 that was gonna fill the 40-60 hole and I’m not impressed with cutting speed, and it’s broke in. I prefer my muff modded 421. Basically trying to reduce power losses with less chain, narrower kerf chain, and a smaller “bite” short bar, and more saw than generally appropriate. Is this a good approach or should i be bumping up to a faster cutting 3/8 chain?

This is the standard Ps-6100 supplied from Germany to the UK.....out of the box and onto the scale.



18" 3/8 bar as standard size..

 

[old_sir_henry]

Some internediate results of my current projects:

The 8700 still isn't running. She starts when the throttle is in starting position but dies immediately when I touch the trigger. I have changed the modified carb with a stock one w/o any improvement. Since pulling the starter is very tiresome, I haven't done exhaustive tries to get this sucker running. Postponed after ordering and arrival of a set of new diaphragms which I also will need for the recently arrived 7900H. As I haave noticed in the past, the state of the diaphragms is very essential with the Zama carbs, even if the diaphragms look still OK, the carb might not work at all.
At least the 8700 decal is in place now, I admit, that's kind of optimistic...



The 7900H also is waiting for a timeslot on my bench as well as a Sachs-Dolmar 116siH I brought home last week.
The one I was working on recently is a PS-344 Start&Go I had lying around for about two years now. Seems I'm cleaning up my backlog currently, but then again I continue to add saws to it.


The 344 had a badly leaking fuel tank and was missing a small but essential part NLA at Dolmar. Maybe that was the reason I didn't start working on her earlier.
Previous owner already had tried to glue the tank w/o success, it leaked thru the bottom seam. Virtually impossible to fix. I replaced the tank with a good one from a PS-341 but since the 344 doesn't have the half-throttle lock button, I dremeled that one off the replacement tank and closed its opening with the little lid harvested from the faulty tank.



The important part missing was the little push rod which connects the "choke" switch with the injection valve. This part has been NLA for some time now (but with my next spares order I will include it again just in case ... ). Self-supply needed here: The foto shows a second try on top of the original part where the hooked parts need some fine bending to prevent them from slipping out of the switch or valve when operated. Third try however did work and I made just another rod which goes into my first 344 so I can keep the original part for reference. Base material used was a bicycle spoke.



The switch itself was broken too, although it has been availbale two years ago, I tried to fix the broken part, just in case. First try was to epoxy the broken area (picture below), but it didn't stick. I then took an electric soldering iron and melted some material from the broken tank's throttle switch onto the choke-switch and when it was cold, dremeled the slot for the rod into it. Works so far!




And this is the combo switch & rod in place:




More to come...

 

[Wood Chopper]

Dropped a dozen trees with the 6100 today. She did awesome. Way better than me. Lol.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[RI Chevy]

Nice Matt

 

[166]

That saw is confused

 

[Skisawyer]

We know a guy that makes dolmar stickers

 

[Wood Chopper]

That saw is confused

Meh. At least it’s the same family. Lol


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[old_sir_henry]

We know a guy that makes dolmar stickers

Would be more than a sticker needed: The handle cover on the 6100 is orange plastic material with black intarsia
letters. I'd leave her confused.

 

[old_sir_henry]

More on my 344's progress:
since there was a small but larger than just noticeable radial lash on the crank, I replaced main bearings.
The parts are dirt cheap only the procedure of pulling the old and pressing in the new bearings
is a little cumbersome, but doable.

Crank case halves without bearings but with retention rings re-installed. The crank case is in amazing good shape considered it's 20 years old.

A project I had in mind for months now is to tune a 33 cc hobby Dolmar to make it compare well with a 39 cc of the same family. I tried with this one. Decision was easy since I have a few spare 33 cc mugs flying around so no real risk in waisting one for some amateur port work. So I widened intake and exhaust and also grinded the rear transfers:





I noticed the present piston had the ring pin straight to the back of the saw so the ring's ends would run the center of the intake.
Since I widened the intake port leaving it as is didn't seem a good idea to me because I was afraid the now longer free ring ends could bend out too much and might get caught on the intake ceiling. So I replaced the piston with a one where the pin runs in noman's land between intake and transfers. I feel much more comfortable with this setup.

Present piston was a windowed-sidewall one:



Replacement one has closed closed sidewalls, however I think that's not bad with open transfers.
As it turned out the bottom of piston skirt collided with the crank's counterweight, so a little more grinding was needed. Apparently the replacement piston originated in an even older saw like a SACHS-DOLMAR 100 which had smaller counterweights.


Here is the replacement piston before the grinding of its skirt's bottom edges took place.

More to come...

 

[166]

Dropped a dozen trees with the 6100 today. She did awesome. Way better than me. Lol.

 

[Wilhelm]

 

[Black Dog Chainsaw]

More on my 344's progress:
since there was a small but larger than just noticeable radial lash on the crank, I replaced main bearings.
The parts are dirt cheap only the procedure of pulling the old and pressing in the new bearings
is a little cumbersome, but doable.
View attachment 220817
Crank case halves without bearings but with retention rings re-installed. The crank case is in amazing good shape considered it's 20 years old.

A project I had in mind for months now is to tune a 33 cc hobby Dolmar to make it compare well with a 39 cc of the same family. I tried with this one. Decision was easy since I have a few spare 33 cc mugs flying around so no real risk in waisting one for some amateur port work. So I widened intake and exhaust and also grinded the rear transfers:

View attachment 220819

View attachment 220820

I noticed the present piston had the ring pin straight to the back of the saw so the ring's ends would run the center of the intake.
Since I widened the intake port leaving it as is didn't seem a good idea to me because I was afraid the now longer free ring ends could bend out too much and might get caught on the intake ceiling. So I replaced the piston with a one where the pin runs in noman's land between intake and transfers. I feel much more comfortable with this setup.

Present piston was a windowed-sidewall one:

View attachment 220831

Replacement one has closed closed sidewalls, however I think that's not bad with open transfers.
As it turned out the bottom of piston skirt collided with the crank's counterweight, so a little more grinding was needed. Apparently the replacement piston originated in an even older saw like a SACHS-DOLMAR 100 which had smaller counterweights.

View attachment 220830
Here is the replacement piston before the grinding of its skirt's bottom edges took place.

More to come...

I did some grinding and work on my dcs-401... I found it lacking on the carb end and put a Stihl 028super carb on it which flows better and bolts right up. Needed to flip the linkage and the AF didn’t fit... also mine seemed to peak out at 9300-9600 rpm under load (better than factory at 8400-8600). Has plenty of torque... So I found a rim drive clutch drum that fit, and put a bigger rim drive on to speed up the chain. Might look into a Stockel stack type system for filtration... as I recall I didn’t get a choke fitted because the 028 uses a choke flap on the AF.

Check your squish... mine was above 0.030!

Runs like a dream though... 9.8lbs with 14” 3/8lp b&c and all the power you could want before picking up a 60cc. Only complaint on this series is the bar mount/clutch cover seem to be more “home owner” than pro (the 4300/421 is much better).

 

[Black Dog Chainsaw]

I keep hearing that from people , but I’m on the 40cc-60cc-something large cc plan. And the power losses up at 7,000ft elevation are significant... which has me thinking there is no replacement for displacement... and I have a new Steel 261 that was gonna fill the 40-60 hole and I’m not impressed with cutting speed, and it’s broke in. I prefer my muff modded 421. Basically trying to reduce power losses with less chain, narrower kerf chain, and a smaller “bite” short bar, and more saw than generally appropriate. Is this a good approach or should i be bumping up to a faster cutting 3/8 chain?

I’d stay with 3/8 18” and you should still have all the power you need as stock saw. Worst case scenario you convert later if 3/8 doesn’t work for you.

 

[Skisawyer]

So maybe convert my ms-261 from 325 to 3/8lp??

 

[dahmer]

View attachment 221101

That is sweeeeetttt!

 

[old_sir_henry]

Only complaint on this series is the bar mount/clutch cover seem to be more “home owner” than pro (the 4300/421 is much better).

True, the audience of the series was clearly amateur users (in Germany the saws are commonly called hobby-Dolmars). The bar mount is a bit crappy, especially the (much too) small metal bushing pressed into the sprocket cover that forwards the pressure of the nut onto the bar is crap. Many people especially amateurs tend to tighten the nut much to strong and the tiny surface area actually pressing the bar bends to outer plate of the laminated bars and leaves a permanent deformation on the bar. Next thing to happen is the bushing now wears off ball-wise. The bushings aren't available as single parts you are encouraged to by a complete sprocket cover with brake. Usually one can rescue the cover simply by pressing the bushing out and pressing it back in having it turned by 90° so that the ball-shaped deformation now matches the bar's slot.

 

[Wilhelm]

Hello everyone. I picked up a lil saw yesterday that I thought was a poulan 20D, or the craftsman equivalent, but the color leads me and others to think it is actually a Dolmar Hobby 100. I posted it in the Poulan thread but it was suggested to ask around here as well. The only identifying mark is the serial number. I am aware it was made by Poulan regardless if was branded Dolmar. Any thoughts? Thank you in advance.

Sachs-Dolmar 101 Hobby

http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.n...6af40002b8f7/0c3c926ba527595288256b62005829c6

Cute looking saw.

 

[166]

Neighbor Scott and his father

 

[RI Chevy]

Cool video Steve.

 

[exSW]

Need me one of those velocity stack mounts.