POULAN The Official Poulan Thread

[heimannm]

And very strong.

 

[Fishnuts2]

I’m gonna try mine against the 288 I got last Summer. Just messing around it feels like they’re really close.


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[rocketnorton]

couple heat cycles
few cuts
sfsg

 

[Johnmn]

It's going back together

 

[WillG]

Just saved this one. Needed a metering diaphragm and gasket, fuel line and filter, tank vent fitting and vent line. Have it setup 16". Real screamer.

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[Dream]

Just saved this one. Needed a metering diaphragm and gasket, fuel line and filter, tank vent fitting and vent line. Have it setup 16". Real screamer.

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Very nice!
Muffler looks like it was a VERY low use saw.
Just spotted one the other day, but the guy wont sell it...yet. He also had a 4000 that looked to be complete.
Also wont sell that one...yet.
Currently doing a motor swap for a 2000 for a co worker. It was his grandfathers saw, and was absolutely used to death.
That is as it should be. Thats what they were made for.
I did manage to find a VERY low use donor to do a motor swap though.
Hasnt even run long enough to rust the muffler.
Got the carb in soaking. Fuel line has been replaced, and I think the tank vent will hold up.
Have some "gently used" carb diaphragms to go back in it.
Should be a runner. I'll include pics then.

 

[countryhog]

Couple years ago I rebuilt a poulan 180Pro. While running it for breaking in it fried scoring the pc. I am certain I hadn’t tuned it lean but wtf. And I had installed new seals and pressure/vacuum tested it. There was no obvious indication of leaks.
Fast forward to today, after MANY hours of thinking, testing, research and again rebuilding pc and carb, I again again rebuilt carb and got it running. It tuned in, sorta.
While tuning it I noticed fuel bubbling on the mounting bolt holding the choke mechanism. The bubbling was at the bottom of the bolt where it goes through the carb mounting flange.
Finally, after all this time I may have a clue. When installing the carb I used a little motoseal on both sides of the gasket which after very careful inspection shows no wear or tears. I also pressure tested the carb and, while it didn’t hold pressure firmly, it has an extremely SLOW leak. Didn’t see any cracks in carb.
When rebuilding I saw no indication of cracks in the carb/handle assembly. Also the reed valve and assembly looked good.
I am open to any thoughts; I do have some but would like to hear what y’all think. Not ready to trash or part this saw after all time and effort I’ve put into it. Also, not willing to let a machine get the best of me.

 

[FergusonTO35]

Totally understand not wanting to let a machine beat you! I've wasted much of my life in pursuit of that.

 

[countryhog]

Gonna take it down again. Anyone know how to determine presence of hairline cracks in carb/handle and the reed valve?

 

[S Sidwell]

You got another handle you can install on it? With bubbling at that bolt hole, sounds like it's cracked.
Did the gasket look good?
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[countryhog]

Haven’t taken it down yet but looked good when last time installed when I replaced pc
Got to sort through my junk for another handle
Thanks for response

 

[countryhog]

do have couple green handles. unfortunately i need black. still got to tear it down. maybe something easily repaired, like a gasket

 

[FergusonTO35]

Just saved this one. Needed a metering diaphragm and gasket, fuel line and filter, tank vent fitting and vent line. Have it setup 16". Real screamer.

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I look at these pics and am genuinely sad that American marques don't make saws like this anymore.

 

[bigbadbob]

Need a pic of the oiler drive on a Wild Thing 2375.
Got a saw wont oil. They guy picked up some baler twine and it got between the clutch and oiler.
Melted the oiler gear and it pushed the oiler drive in. I need a pick of the oiler drive on the saw for orientation ,,its a spring type thing wound over the crank... I need to rehome the drive.
TIA

 

[Dream]

Very nice!
Muffler looks like it was a VERY low use saw.
Just spotted one the other day, but the guy wont sell it...yet. He also had a 4000 that looked to be complete.
Also wont sell that one...yet.
Currently doing a motor swap for a 2000 for a co worker. It was his grandfathers saw, and was absolutely used to death.
That is as it should be. Thats what they were made for.
I did manage to find a VERY low use donor to do a motor swap though.
Hasnt even run long enough to rust the muffler.
Got the carb in soaking. Fuel line has been replaced, and I think the tank vent will hold up.
Have some "gently used" carb diaphragms to go back in it.
Should be a runner. I'll include pics then.

Forgot to post last weekend.
Little 2000 is back where it came from. He said it seemed stouter than before.
I said yep, new motor usually does that.

 

[rocketnorton]

@bigbadbob

can get ya one lil later
could maybe put pump on first, mark crank where worm needs to be?

 

[bigbadbob]

@bigbadbob

can get ya one lil later


Thanks
could maybe put pump on first, mark crank where worm needs to be?

Thanks
Could do. The twine forced the oiler drive inward. Its just a spring wrapped on the crank.
New pump on the way $13 shipped.
Saw came with case and 2 extra chains.

 

[rocketnorton]

lookin again, there is a groove in crank, the inner end of spring/worm sits in
3/16ish" out from seal

 

[bigbadbob]

lookin again, there is a groove in crank, the inner end of spring/worm sits in
3/16ish" out from seal

Thanks for that.

 

[cowroy]

Hey fellas, I picked up an old PP P40 and I’m looking for the little rubbers that go in the fuel and oil caps. Anyone know where I might get some? Thanks for any help!


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