POULAN The Official Poulan Thread

[edju1958]

That looks like a whole seal to me? That might be the bearing down in there.

I 've seen ball bearing in the pockert,not another garter spring.Enlarge the pic & take another look.That old seal shouldn't be opened up liker that,it should be closed with the same material as on the top which is metal.

 

[Dream]

I 've seen ball bearing in the pockert,not another garter spring.Enlarge the pic & take another look.That old seal shouldn't be opened up liker that,it should be closed with the same material as on the top which is metal.

That looks like the bearing Ed.
I dont have a 306, but ive been all the way through a 3400.
It has a single seal. Dont recall whether or not the bearing had a seal, but it could have been replaced at some point with a sealed or shielded bearing.

 

[edju1958]

That looks like the bearing Ed.
I dont have a 306, but ive been all the way through a 3400.
It has a single seal. Dont recall whether or not the bearing had a seal, but it could have been replaced at some point with a sealed or shielded bearing.

If that's the bearing where are the steel balls?

 

[Maintenance Chief]

If that's the bearing where are the steel balls?

Behind the nylon shield.

 

[edju1958]

Behind the nylon shield.

I've never seen a nylon shield under the seal.I've only pulled seals on Homelite & Jonsered saws & they didn't have a nylon shield.Is this something that is only common to Poulan saws?

 

[fossil]

I've never seen a nylon shield under the seal.I've only pulled seals on Homelite & Jonsered saws & they didn't have a nylon shield.Is this something that is only common to Poulan saws?

What you are looking at is the inner race of the bearing and a retaining ring on top of it.

 

[edju1958]

What you are looking at is the inner race of the bearing and a retaining ring on top of it.

Thanks Tim,that's all I needed to know.I've got the seal & some other parts ordered from Buford Parrish.I expect to have it by the end of the week.Is there a cross reference seal for the Poulan part # 19042? (530019042) I don't have any measurements on the old one,but I can get them if needed.

 

[fossil]

Thanks Tim,that's all I needed to know.I've got the seal & some other parts ordered from Buford Parrish.I expect to have it by the end of the week.Is there a cross reference seal for the Poulan part # 19042? (530019042) I don't have any measurements on the old one,but I can get them if needed.

The cross for that 19042 is SKF CR5541 It's a single lip seal. 0.563 in Shaft, 0.999 in OD, 0.256 in Width

Timken (National) make a double lip seal. 471315

The PTO side seal is hard to find (I hear)

 

[edju1958]

The cross for that 19042 is SKF CR5541 It's a single lip seal. 0.563 in Shaft, 0.999 in OD, 0.256 in Width

Timken (National) make a double lip seal. 471315

The PTO side seal is hard to find (I hear)

Good thing I didn't need the pto side.The seals for the S25DA were supposed to be hard to find too,but Bob J.had them as of 2 yrs.ago.He probably had the seals for the 306A too,but he didn't want to bother looking when I called him,so I had to call greedy Buford.I needed an air filter for the 306A too,Buford had a couple left in stock at a cost of $28.Just a bit on the pricey side.Thanks for the seal info Tim.

 

[fossil]

There is a seal the Poulan guys tells me works well but it's a misapplication.

I did find a Dichtomatic seal that will work for the S25, Micros and a some Homelites that is a double lipped seal with a spring.

I don't know how easy it is to find but it's in their catalog. I did use SKF CR 4913 seals in an S25 and they work great. It's more of a wiper seal with a stiff flat lip and no garter spring. I think they are commonly used for grease applications.

 

[edju1958]

There is a seal the Poulan guys tells me works well but it's a misapplication.

I did find a Dichtomatic seal that will work for the S25, Micros and a some Homelites that is a double lipped seal with a spring.

I don't know how easy it is to find but it's in their catalog. I did use SKF CR 4913 seals in an S25 and they work great. It's more of a wiper seal with a stiff flat lip and no garter spring. I think they are commonly used for grease applications.

I've got some 4913 seals here that are supposed to fit the SEZ.I got them from MRO Supply.

 

[Thesandman]

Well I ran saws today and got some bad news. 24" Pulaan 4000 vs 20"cs590. Had tac on 4000 and log was 18" dead ash. Both chains sharp. 4000 was cutting@8750rpm or more and was consistently 1 sec or more slower. But it still has chain bar problem. Let off throttle and chain stops instantly. Oiler is working and I removed a tight spot on bar but better look it over again. If I could put 590 bar and chain on 4000 I know it would out cut it so I'm pretty happy with my 38yr old saw. It's also down close to 20psi on compression. Old saw runs pretty good. Do you think nose bearing is seizing up? Feels fine when saw is off.

 

[Thesandman]

I ran saw again and roller nose is smoking hot. I'm ordering a new bar but can't get .058. Do I need a new sprocket to run .050? How do I go about putting a pro type clutch drum and replaceable sprocket on saw? Thanks

 

[fossil]

I ran saw again and roller nose is smoking hot. I'm ordering a new bar but can't get .058. Do I need a new sprocket to run .050? How do I go about putting a pro type clutch drum and replaceable sprocket on saw? Thanks

Same sprocket for either gauge chain.

Swap out for a rim drive drum uses the same washers and bearing as the spur drum so that's easy.

Poulan PN for the drum 530048063

Oregon drum PN Power Mate 28187

Both take a large 7 rim, Oregon 68210

Both sprockets are obsolete but are still out there on line.

 

[Thesandman]

Thanks Tim; That's what I want to do. Does my bearing work?

 

[fossil]

Thanks Tim; That's what I want to do. Does my bearing work?

Yes it does. A very painless swap. Just make sure you keep the washers in the same order.

 

[edju1958]

Well guys,I got the parts fropm Buford today - new AF,new seal,new chain tensioner,& a couple screws that were missing.I put the seal in using my crude installation tool - a small spline rim & a 1/2 in.piece of pipe with a reducer on the end,worked great,Lol.Put it all back together,put fuel in & it fired right up & ran great.Went to shut it off & it wouldn't shut off.I forgot it was missing the wire from the switch to the coil,so I'll make that up tomorrow.
The saw has a problem leaking oil just sitting there.Is there a gasket or seal that's prone to going bad,& what's involved with replacing them?

 

[fossil]

[QUOTEow.
The saw has a problem leaking oil just sitting there.Is there a gasket or seal that's prone to going bad,& what's involved with replacing them?[/QUOTE]


It would be good if you could clean the saw off and find out exactly where the oil is coming from. The oilers on that series is very different and complex and has to go back together exactly as it came apart.

 

[edju1958]

[QUOTEow.
The saw has a problem leaking oil just sitting there.Is there a gasket or seal that's prone to going bad,& what's involved with replacing them?

It would be good if you could clean the saw off and find out exactly where the oil is coming from. The oilers on that series is very different and complex and has to go back together exactly as it came apart.[/QUOTE]
I'll get at that cleaning tomorrow.I looked at the IPL & that oiler is complex.This may be the reason the saw was "retired".

 

[edju1958]

At this point I really don't know what to think other than the check valve might've been stuck open.I was going to make up a kill switch wire for the saw,but found out after taking the flywheel cover off that there was a wire there,it was just unhooked from the coil.It slipped on & off the spade very easy,so I crimped it while it was on the spade & it's much better now.Naturally the saw was on it's side like it was when I put the new seal in it & that's when it leaked out the oil previously.This time I filled it about half way,just like last time,& there was no leakage.I ran the saw for a bit with a 20 in.bar & chain on it & pumped the manual oiler,then shut it off & checked it periodically throughout the day.There was a little oil that dripped onto a dry towel,but I think that was residual oil from the manual oiling.I then filled the oil tank full & waited again to see if there was any leakage & there was none.I'll be checking again a couple more times before the night's over,but as I said earlier,I think the check vaslve was stuck on it.Who knows how long it's been since the saw was ran last?I'll get some pics of it on here when the weather warms a bit.