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POULAN The Official Poulan Thread

edju1958

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Well,so much for it not leaking.It has a VERY SLOW leak right under the chain tensioner from what I can see.After looking at the IPL,I don't believe it could be a bad gasket on the oil tank cover.My guess is a bad seal on the oil pump (YAY).I already have the seal here,so I may as well start pulling it down.
If anyone else has any other ideas as to what's causing the leak - I'm listening.
 

edju1958

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I had a stroke of good luck tonight,which rarely happens with me.I was bidding on a Poulan 3400 a few days ago & it went to another bidder.I didn't realize it,but we had the same bid amount,only a few days difference.The other bidder didn't pay for the saw,so the seller contacted me & offered it at a Buy It Now price of $80 (original sale price),of course I jumped on it.
 

Thesandman

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Ok I can't find what I want(forester platinum 20" em205070w)to fit my poulan 4000 so is there a husky/stihl bar that is easily modified to fit? Thanks
 

Thesandman

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Does anyone know of a carb that will bolt in in place of original on poulan 4000? Thanks. If there is a Poulan 4000 guru, I would certainly like to pic his/her brain.
 

Thesandman

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Does anyone know of a carb that will bolt in in place of original on poulan 4000? Thanks. If there is a Poulan 4000 guru, I would certainly like to pic his/her brain.
Ok I just ran saw with new 20" Oregon bar and saw ran great. In cut with 18" of ash it ran about 8700rpm. I saw it dip a few times to 7600 or 7900 and run over 9k quite often. Once I get squish set and timing advanced along with porting numbers it should be 9k to 9500rpms. How long will a sealed bearing sprocket bar last? I've always had greaseable bearings.
 

Thesandman

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My original poulan 4000 is in pretty ruff shape. It needs everything. Piston and cylinder look good. It might be because open port saws have better cooling and lubrication. The rod small end bearings(2) are loose but there isn't any discoloration. Is it possible to replace big end bearing? Thanks
 

S Sidwell

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My original poulan 4000 is in pretty ruff shape. It needs everything. Piston and cylinder look good. It might be because open port saws have better cooling and lubrication. The rod small end bearings(2) are loose but there isn't any discoloration. Is it possible to replace big end bearing? Thanks
Only way I know to replace the rod bearings on the crankshaft side is a complete crankshaft.

Steve from my moto g(7) play using Tapatalk
 

edju1958

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I got my $80 3400 special today.I went through the saw & it was really clean.I think it was a low hr.saw.Missing the bar plates & the adjuster screw is bent,I can't complain about that.I just happened to have a new set of bar plates here for it,but they're both inner plates.Good old Bob J.sold them to me last yr.for my 3700 & the outer plate wasn't machined for the adjuster,so I ended up buyng a set on Feebay.Meanwhile Bob sent me another set.
The saw needed a new fuel filter desperately,the old one was really filthy.I checked for spark & it was kinda questionable,but the plug looked new so I put it back in with a shot of fuel.The saw fired,so I put fuel in the tank & pulled & pulled & it wouldn't fire.I primed it & then it fired.I figurerd I'd have to pull the carb for a rebuild.Something told me to prime it again & I got nothing.I pulled the plug & it was wet,it didn't fire.I hunted around & found another plug for it & swapped it out.I pulled the 1st time & it sputtered,I pulled again & it started running & didn't quit.All the saw needed was a new fuel filter,a good plug,& a carb adjustment.It runs & oils very well.I'll get some pics of it on here when the weather warms a bit.
 

Thesandman

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I'm thinking my 4000 might be my go to saw. It cuts that good. Problem is at almost 40 years old I'm worried about parts. They never needed much but everything is older now.
 

S Sidwell

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There's parts but when you buy a parts saw, you end up getting it running but then it beats the purpose of a parts saw.

Steve from my moto g(7) play using Tapatalk
 

S Sidwell

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The pump diaphragm is a different story. I remember someone making and selling them on here
but I can't remember who.

Steve from my moto g(7) play using Tapatalk
 

Thesandman

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Ok I just ran 4000 2.0 and it's rocking in small stuff. 10k plus in 8 to 10" wood. It's warm (39*) and humid today, so it's fat on mix. I think saw has a good wide pwr band cuz it pulls good from mid 7s on up. One part I'm concerned with is recoil start. It's squealing now so I'm worried if I add 50psi compression(180ish)it might give up. After saw sets several days it takes 10 full pulls to get it to fire. What would cause that? It starts first pull after that. Thanks OPE.
 
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Thesandman

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I think my saw might have a walbro hdb 18. I'm looking for a better (replacement)carb around .750 bore. Not sure as it's hard to find info on 40yr old saws. Man US made some great saws in 84.
 
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FergusonTO35

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It really saddens me to see that US saw marques haven't been relevant in decades. Of course, the same can be said for most brands around the world. Look at Mike Acre's site and see how many saw brands have come and gone over the years. In fact, even most of the Scandinavian and German brands have fallen by the wayside.
 

Thesandman

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Just messing around on u tube I found that a old early 70's homelite super ez cylinder looks like my 80,s 4000 almost exactly for ports, transfers and head. Poulan copied a old homelite. WOW
 
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