MCCULLOCH The official McCulloch thread

[heimannm]

I'm pretty sure that 101 is the same one that I needled back in 2013...I sent it out to Terry Ives who welded it, machined it, sent it back with a new piston, cylinder cracked so I sent it back, he rewelded, machined, and another piston, and 10 years later it was running again...

As you can see here, it was a NOS piston assembly when the disaster occurred.



Mark

 

[Sloa]

I’m too ugly to make money on YouTube!!

But you make those big saws look small.

 

[Sloa]

Old ring and assembly slides right in. Do I file new rings to a starting point of say .0086, then go from there. Should I just go .0093 as the old.

 

[jacob j.]

Old ring and assembly slides right in. Do I file new rings to a starting point of say .0086, then go from there. Should I just go .0093 as the old.

Have you measured your ring locating pins?

 

[Sloa]

Have you measured your ring locating pins?

I have, .0047. Was attempting to get as little of a gap as mentioned by you and Lee. just got it in bore, filed to .0072

 

[Sloa]

I now have to install the bearings on new crank, bearings I ordered from Napa. Meets requirements, the difference in # of bearings and inner rim dimensions throw the eye. Really appreciate you fellas and your exchange of knowledge . Going to go back to 797 thread. Got to red kote the two halves to the gas tank. Hoping others have done this.

 

[heimannm]

I would suggest assembling the tank halves and adding Red Kote inside the tank and rotate it around to evenly distribute the coating. I did two 10 Series AV tanks last week using that approach and have done maybe 25 or 30 tanks in total. With the Red Kote you don't have to have a perfect gasket seal to keep the tank from leaking.

On the AV saws (10 Series and large frame) the tanks are epoxied and cannot easily be separated. Treating the tanks with Red Kote and insuring a good coating around the seam is the best solution to a leaking tank.

Mark

 

[Woodslasher]

It's been a minute since I fiddled with a Mac, but tonight I cleaned and spun up a chain for the 1-82 I was gifted at the gtg. As I recall, this saw runs good and was audible from 1/4 mile away (when it was after 9 p.m.), so the chain should be all it needs. I also picked up a new 3120 carb for $35, at some point I may try adapting that to my 125.

 

[heimannm]

Some of the 1-72/1-82 saws came with the "town & country" muffler with an adjustable baffle for "loud" or "louder"...





Mark

 

[Sloa]

Some of the 1-72/1-82 saws came with the "town & country" muffler with an adjustable baffle for "loud" or "louder"...

View attachment 425638

View attachment 425639

Mark

Funny, so in town turn down . Why bother making volume adjustable , does it affect performance. So you would want to run full open in the country.

 

[Squareground3691]

Little bar mod ,

 

[heimannm]

Sacrilege?

 

[Squareground3691]

Sacrilege?

Just some slot mod ,It’s actually a Oregon RW bar , I redid for Mac SP125 ,

 

[Sloa]

I would suggest assembling the tank halves and adding Red Kote inside the tank and rotate it around to evenly distribute the coating. I did two 10 Series AV tanks last week using that approach and have done maybe 25 or 30 tanks in total. With the Red Kote you don't have to have a perfect gasket seal to keep the tank from leaking.

On the AV saws (10 Series and large frame) the tanks are epoxied and cannot easily be separated. Treating the tanks with Red Kote and insuring a good coating around the seam is the best solution to a leaking tank.

Mark

Hi Mark, putting saw together in dry run. The weight of the saw places some limitations on the process of continuous rolling tank to coat everything, also this inner shield will also be covered not sure if that matters. Not impossible but it is very heavy. Read Leeha muse about doing it that way. Be a horrible experience to have to take the tank apart and off again, not the quickest operation as it is.
Horrible experience or not if everything goes well won’t have any reason to take off.

 

[Sloa]

Good evening, spending time reading through previous and having some down time thought I would tackle air box cover. Around pg 380 it’s mentioned that a patch and JB weld for repair. First picture is cover from 1-71. 2nd s797. Much prefer the lines of original. Should I remove paint first before patch as I will be painting or will it matter in which order.
Will taping be sufficient to protect instruction sticker from stripper or removal and reapply be a better way to go.

 

[Sloa]

When I was 17 I acquired a 69 dodge dart two door 318. Had horribly collision damage in one rear panel. With my uncles help I got those lines back and learned a thing or two. I loved that car, but the struggles of being young . But I find myself doing body work on something from 69 that has brought out that same feeling. I had a lot more confidence in my abilities with the dart, had a bulge in one slick and constantly back fired , would Barrie the needle 120mph. But this saw is halve my body weight. I am a tiny man.
So i put a patch overlay flat and bent metal bridge on edge. Would of liked to have smoothed better , all space filled and will attempt to follow all lines when I sand.

 

[Sloa]

I do have to temper my expectations as there is a checklist that has to be adhered to. Fiscal responsibility followed by safety. And with safety comes the next consideration, the bar and chain. Sprocket is lightly used 7T .404 that came with clutch replacement. The bar has had some welding and I may be able to make notches disappear but is the endeavour structural unsound.
Looking at chain you can see where bottom of links getting gouged.
As I educate myself with assistance from your knowledge, could I ask the profile of the chain and should I shop for something similar. Thinking of my small stature, I asked Leeha if a smaller bar would be better and he clearly said these saws are made for big bars.
Asking in particular about full or skip. I know I will run .404 and role I see saw playing. Plan on using to buck white spruce.

 

[heimannm]

Just add the Red Kote, lay the tank on one side for a few minutes, rotate 90° so the Red Kote flows to the front for a few minutes, rotate 90° so it flows and coats the seam on the opposite side for a few minutes, rotate 90° to coat the seam at the rear of the tank, and keep doing this for an hour or so until the Red Kote sets up and it no longer flowing. With a little practice you will learn just how much to pour in to achieve a good coating without having too much excess. If you want to, roll the tank around to get a layer on the bottom and top while you are at it. No need to continuously keep the tank in motion, just let the Red Kote flow everywhere and try to build a few layers in the critical areas like the tank seam where is it most likely to leak.. Red Kote is not like epoxy so if you ever have to tank the tank apart again it peals off pretty easily. Just be sure to let it cure completely (no solvent odor) before adding fuel. Gently blowing some warm air in/over the tank (think hair dryer or heat just at a low setting) will speed the curing process.

You an always use a little additional filler to smooth out the surface of the tank if needed. For future projects consider using some screen wire or fiberglass cloth to help add some structural support to a larger repair like that.



I would not be overly concerned about the welding repairs to the bar. Many bars have been repaired and not all of them were as nicely done as yours.

Mark

 

[Sloa]

Just add the Red Kote, lay the tank on one side for a few minutes, rotate 90° so the Red Kote flows to the front for a few minutes, rotate 90° so it flows and coats the seam on the opposite side for a few minutes, rotate 90° to coat the seam at the rear of the tank, and keep doing this for an hour or so until the Red Kote sets up and it no longer flowing. With a little practice you will learn just how much to pour in to achieve a good coating without having too much excess. If you want to, roll the tank around to get a layer on the bottom and top while you are at it. No need to continuously keep the tank in motion, just let the Red Kote flow everywhere and try to build a few layers in the critical areas like the tank seam where is it most likely to leak.. Red Kote is not like epoxy so if you ever have to tank the tank apart again it peals off pretty easily. Just be sure to let it cure completely (no solvent odor) before adding fuel. Gently blowing some warm air in/over the tank (think hair dryer or heat just at a low setting) will speed the curing process.

You an always use a little additional filler to smooth out the surface of the tank if needed. For future projects consider using some screen wire or fiberglass cloth to help add some structural support to a larger repair like that.

View attachment 426208

I would not be overly concerned about the welding repairs to the bar. Many bars have been repaired and not all of them were as nicely done as yours.

Mark

Thank you Mark, I am sanding the patch on lid later and will touch up the two low spots on bar. With patch on lid I did reinforce with automotive metal screen patch cut to match flat and a metal piece bent 90 placed on edge. Inlaid both, the sand later will be the teller. Want it to come out sweet but don’t know if I’ll ever run it with it as I have the 1-71 lid that has no damage.
I will do as you suggest about red kote. I do want a leak free tank, and seems like no brainer.

 

[heimannm]

The Red Kote will work on the 797 tank, but you can't use it on the 1-71 since it uses a felt wick/fuel filter in the tank that would be plugged by the Red Kote. I remove the fuel line and filter and plug the hole with a rubber stopper while applying the Red Kote.

Mark