MCCULLOCH The official McCulloch thread

[Dream]

So just help me understand.
There are fifty eleven different 1010 saws out there.
I understand that a 1010 and a 1010A are all 54 cc standard "homeowner" saws.
Pro mac 55 is a 57 cc "homeowner" saw.
What is a Pro 1010?
All 1010S saws are 57 cc "homeowner" saws?
Is there a Super 1010? Ive seen an SP60. What about an SP55?
Is there any difference between a 1010S and the 1010SE saws?
Talking about port timing and weight reduction or anything that would make one better than the other to have.

Similar to what ive heard about 6-10/7-10A versus PM700 . I understand the former to have less weight and better port timing, thus better response/power in the cut for pro use.
I have a 7-10A and a PM700.
I absolutely prefer the 7-10 with a 20" bar for felling and bucking 16"-18" trees over the 700. It's just lighter and faster as I handle it.
The 700 excells on bigger trees where it can pull a 28" bar without bogging. It has better torque and control with the longer bar, but it lacks speed in the cut when bucking.
Havent tried the 28" bar on the 7-10, but I feel like it wasnt made for it.

 

[Maintenance Chief]

So just help me understand.
There are fifty eleven different 1010 saws out there.
I understand that a 1010 and a 1010A are all 54 cc standard "homeowner" saws.
Pro mac 55 is a 57 cc "homeowner" saw.
What is a Pro 1010?
All 1010S saws are 57 cc "homeowner" saws?
Is there a Super 1010? Ive seen an SP60. What about an SP55?
Is there any difference between a 1010S and the 1010SE saws?
Talking about port timing and weight reduction or anything that would make one better than the other to have.

Similar to what ive heard about 6-10/7-10A versus PM700 . I understand the former to have less weight and better port timing, thus better response/power in the cut for pro use.
I have a 7-10A and a PM700.
I absolutely prefer the 7-10 with a 20" bar for felling and bucking 16"-18" trees over the 700. It's just lighter and faster as I handle it.
The 700 excells on bigger trees where it can pull a 28" bar without bogging. It has better torque and control with the longer bar, but it lacks speed in the cut when bucking.
Havent tried the 28" bar on the 7-10, but I feel like it wasnt made for it.

I'm sure I don't know all the nuances between the models of 10-10 series, but as far as "better" models options? I would consider Electronic ignition, automatic oiling, throttle lock, felling/ bucking spike, chain brake, rim sprocket, and displacement.
It's like ordering a vehicle in the 60s , same car ,just different options.
Ofcourse the early mag saws are going to be lighter but mostly points ignition.
Anti-vibe saws are more comfortable to run but have more wear components.
Generally in displacement 54cc 10-10 saws ,most of those features are available except for AV ( I think?). The 10-10 iron bore can be .010,.020,or .030 over bore also !
57cc saws could be had with AV as well as most other options. I believe that the later electronic ignition system allows them to rev higher. With the 10-10S being one of the best sub 60 saws I've ever used.

 

[Maintenance Chief]

There's also the Pro Mac 60 and SP60 , SP being a Anti-vibe saw. I think its actually a 62cc saw? They were an excellent saw to cut with . The PM60 is one of my favorites, just not alot of them out there.

 

[Maintenance Chief]

There's so much variety in the 70cc saws I don't think I could explain or know it all! Much of what I already stated is also true plus port timing and performance.
I think the phase "Homeowner" doesn't really apply in reference to any of the 10-10 series McCulloch saws,as in build quality.
Today you can purchase a new saw at a big box store that is built on a completely different platform from a professional level saw ,with absolutely no interchangeable parts and is reflected in the price and performance.
Most if not all parts will interchange between 10 series saws with in reason.
We might look at the price point difference between the saws of the 70s and its easy to think that it wasn't a major investment, but considering inflation that 200$ was alot of money! But you could support your family with a basic 10-10 model! Try that with a modern "Homeowner "saw .lol !!! Especially when you consider pulp wood and firewood production here in the South, some guys ran a base model 10-10 with a bow bar every day for decades to feed their family.
It's only when saws dropped below a certain price that the phase" Homeowner " became a term. Before that, in today's world it would be like every saw would cost you between 1200 -2000 $ or more! The build quality didn't drop until the later 80s.

 

[Squareground3691]

Three favorites,

 

[Al Smith]

Since it was mentioned I have a 6-10 and as far as speed it's the fastest McCulloch I own .That one will dead stick at over 15,000 RPM and it's also the loudest .I seldom use it because under constant usage I'm afraid it would fly apart like a dollar watch .That saw was just an experiment to see what I could make it do and I did .
It has a points ignition which makes it easy to advance the timing by simpley setting the points .The carb I used was the parts from two or three others having a much larger choke assembley which acts like a vee stack . The muffler came from an early 10-10 that has the curved bottom and straight out the side discharge ,no baffles .Ear plugs are not optional .

 

[Frank bierce]

Three favorites, View attachment 395081

Some beauties!

 

[Squareground3691]

Some beauties!

There’s nothing like the sound of old school Mac’s ,

 

[heimannm]

I would generally lump the 10 Series saw something like this:

1-10, 2-10, 3-10 were the lowest performance and were generally (but not always) equipped with the McCulloch bullfrog carburetor. Changing the fuel tank to accommodate the SDC cube type carburetor can yield significant performance improvements.

10-10/10-10A are good, solid performing saws with a nice balance of torque and chain speed. Of the lot, I like the Pro10-10A the best as it has the cube carburetor, LH start, chain brake, and more magnesium making it a lighter, more nimble saw. A big bonus is the PM style air filter that will save you $30-$40 when you have to replace it. The A models should have an automatic chain oiler, but many parts are interchangeable on the 10 Series and folks have done a lot of things to keep saws going... A Super 10-10 was a good marketing strategy but doesn't do anything a 10-10A can't do just as well.

The CP55 is a great 54cc saw with good anti-vibe which makes it more pleasant to run for hours at a time but does not have any big performance advantage over the Pro10-10A saw.

A fresh PM55 will really put a smile on your face and is the lightest and most nimble of the 57 cc models. Yes, the 10-10S models are electronic ignition and may have some RPM advantage but they are noticeably bulkier when you are operating them. The only difference between the 10-10S and 10-10SE (Special Edition) is the sticker... The PM555 is the PM55 with the long clutch cover, the PM570 is an anti-vibe version of the PM555.

The PM60 and SP60 are somewhat peculiar in the bore (1.875 and 1.879") and don't even share the same piston, though the McCulloch documents have them using the same rings. Both are fine saws to run but finding internals for the engine if needed can be more challenging. They do perform as a 60 cc saw should and the anti-vibe on the SP60 make them more comfortable to operated through several tanks of fuel.

I've only run a couple of 4-10 saws and both had been converted from the bullfrog carburetors. With all the magnesium and no chain brake they are pretty amazing lightweight, compact 70 cc saws. The 5-10 and 6-10 are not far behind the 7-10 but I prefer the 7-10 with the left hand start. In cant races, the 7-10 is hard to beat among 70 cc vintage saws. I have not been impressed with the PM700 compared to the 7-10, maybe I could be convinced by someone sending me a really nice PM700 to run along side my 7-10.

I have an SP70 with NOS cylinder, piston, and reed type muffler. I was very disappointed with the apparent performance as I was unduly influenced by the low noise. In side by side cutting with a good 7-10 and Husqvarna 372, the SP70 with 24" bar buried was clearly the fastest in hardwood. I haven't run a CP70 all that much but the anti-vibe is very comfortable, and the CP70L seems to be just fine alongside an SP70. The lower mounts on the CP models could be a problem so the CP70 would not be on my list of saws I'd take to the woods on a regular basis.

My experience on the 82cc saws is that the PM850 has the best of everything, although a fresh SP81 or 81E with the one piece electronic ignition may be just as good. The SP80 and SP81 with the smaller clutch covers are lighter in weight and a bit less bulky as you maneuver them.

The PM800/805/Super 850 are heavier, a tad slower, and much quieter than the predecessors.

I have never been impressed with the performance of the DE80 but it is possible I've never run a nice, fresh example.

The PM8200 is possibly the best performing of the group (PM800 onward) but the few I've run all had a very noticeable vibration when running at maximum RPM. I do think they might have shaved a few ounces off, or perhaps its just the grey paint leading me astray.

Mark

 

[Al Smith]

The type of porting if you ever looked at it was light years ahead of others .Stagered semi closed transfers through a windowed piston .Perfect to sweep the charge and get rid of the exhaust .I might at some time take a 10-10 cylinder and cut it two more to act as secondaries towards the intake side .May work or may not .Theory is one thing but the only way to prove it is to do it .I've got 4 or 5 blocks I could use but likely use an early 10-10 for this experiment and figure out how to change it from right hand start to left hand start .

 

[jacob j.]

Bryce has them back in stock: https://www.ebay.com/itm/364549825090

(125 muffler covers)

 

[Dream]

So I went by a place where ive picked a few saws in the past. My 7-10A came from there.
I passed on this one several times, but I guess I felt sorry for it this time.
Seems to be all there.
I can only guess it lost spark. Plug is out, coil, flywheel etc taken off.
Anybody want to bet me whether it'll run after I clean/set the points and put it back together?
I'm betting yes.

 

[Dream]

Oh, and it has a brand new fuel line/filter and the tank is clean and dry.

 

[Maintenance Chief]

Don't be silly, it runs!

 

[heimannm]

"was running last time I used it..."

 

[Frank bierce]

"was running last time I used it..."

Hear that all the time!! Lol

 

[edju1958]

Brett,it all depends on what the compression is like.If it's too low it won't fire up.I hope it's good though.

 

[John Deere 318]

As far as 10-10's they made a zillion of them .Fact I've got one of the very last ever made and I think just one of the right hand starts left from several I robbed for parts to keep a 6-10 running .Over the years I might have spent money on one that came in a shipment of McCulloch parts of which the shipping cost me more than I paid for the parts and it was shipped from Ohio . I'm not sure if you can kill a 10-10 unless you get stingy with the mix oil . I liberate one every so often from the shelf and run a tank full just to listen to them beller

Hey Al, when replacing the pull rope on my 10 10 s do I have to use the little pin to hold the new string or can I tie a knot and use the slot in the rope housing?

 

[Steve]

Hey Al, when replacing the pull rope on my 10 10 s do I have to use the little pin to hold the new string or can I tie a knot and use the slot in the rope housing?

You need the pin. The pulley is too narrow for a knot.

 

[Maintenance Chief]

Hey Al, when replacing the pull rope on my 10 10 s do I have to use the little pin to hold the new string or can I tie a knot and use the slot in the rope housing?

Take a pair of side cutters and nip off the top of a finish nail, now you have a pin.