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MCCULLOCH The official McCulloch thread

edju1958

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It's not Mac saws. Our money is getting worth less. Of course, I feel old saying that I remember when you could pick up a good running super 797 on eBay for around $325! And I couldn't afford that then!
I beg to differ Steve.Mac has been out of business for nearly 25 yrs.now & that makes them collectible.Once they're in that status the price automatically gets driven up.What the average collector doesn't realize is that within the next few yrs.parts for the Macs will be NLA.We're already seeing this with rings for a 10-10 & cylinders for the 82cc saws. & air filters for the 600 series saws.
 

heimannm

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I have a few felt tyle air filters for the 600 Series saws...not the flocked wire version. I believe they are OEM but they did not come in individual packaging with part numbers...

Mark
 

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Has anyone had a look on feebay lately at the prices of Mac saws?I did a little scrolling yesterday & almost had a stroke! I thought that by now the prices would've started coming down,but they just keep going up by leaps & bounds.
Just like everything else in this economy, never gonna get cheaper to live or buy things, that the way it is it seems post Covid , heck HD 3/4 1ton diesel trucks are six figures now , 🤔
 

Al Smith

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Turning an a cast iron sleeve would not be a problem but on the type of porting on a 10 series style Mac cylinder cutting the ports in would be .If you atempted to cut them in prior to installing the sleeve more than likely you would break it .Nothing is impossible though .When I did the 125 Mac it was just a long tedious exercise but it runs runs good .
 

Al Smith

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On parts no matter what they are if the demand is high enough eventually somebody some where will make them . I could list many examples because saws are not the only things I restore . If and when that happens prices will be all over the place .Things like CJ Jeeps ,model A Fords ,EZGO golf carts you could build them from after market parts .That's only a small example of what is out there .As for McCulloch I just look for a doner and have always found one or ten for that matter and they weren't priced like a Rolls Royce .
 

Steve

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Good afternoon fellow Mac fans... I'm a couple saws away from being able to tear down a Pro 10-10 Auto for some mods. I kinda suck at build threads, but if you guys think it would be worth it, I can give it a shot. Yay or nay?


You won't know till you try! I've got my popcorn on standby!
 

lohan808

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Well guys, I finally got the 10-10a fired today. Unfortunately when I added oil to the reservoir there was a problem. Somehow the chain oil flooded into the motor and SMOKESCREEN! NOW I am by no means a Mac expert, just a crackpot trying to enjoy a good old saw. i was given an auto oiler from a member here and it was functioning when he shipped it. It is one of the metal case deals.
Anybody got some ideas what/ where I could have gone wrong? All seals were new when I rebuilt it and the motor is NOS from Bob Johnson's shop.
 

Steve

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Well guys, I finally got the 10-10a fired today. Unfortunately when I added oil to the reservoir there was a problem. Somehow the chain oil flooded into the motor and SMOKESCREEN! NOW I am by no means a Mac expert, just a crackpot trying to enjoy a good old saw. i was given an auto oiler from a member here and it was functioning when he shipped it. It is one of the metal case deals.
Anybody got some ideas what/ where I could have gone wrong? All seals were new when I rebuilt it and the motor is NOS from Bob Johnson's shop.


Is it a 3 bolt or a single bolt automatic pump?
 

Steve

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One bolt.

If you don't get the one bolts pumps and gasket lined up just right they will leak oil into the crankcase. If you over tighten the one bolts pump they will leak.

Since you have the aluminum pump it is already drilled and tapped for a 3 bolt installation. The best way to fix this is to remove the fuel tank / rear handle assembly and drill the oil tank to utilize the 3 bolt attachment of the auto pump. Some tanks have the holes marked where all you have to do is drill them out and install 3 screws and your golden. Some have no marks and can be a bear to get the holes drilled perfectly.


Are you using a paper gasket or the rubber gasket? The later plastic body one bolt auto pumps used a flat spring to hold the rear of the pump firmly against the gasket. It actually works pretty well.

Mark has a real good write up on the auto pumps with pictures around here somewhere.
 

lohan808

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If you don't get the one bolts pumps and gasket lined up just right they will leak oil into the crankcase. If you over tighten the one bolts pump they will leak.

Since you have the aluminum pump it is already drilled and tapped for a 3 bolt installation. The best way to fix this is to remove the fuel tank / rear handle assembly and drill the oil tank to utilize the 3 bolt attachment of the auto pump. Some tanks have the holes marked where all you have to do is drill them out and install 3 screws and your golden. Some have no marks and can be a bear to get the holes drilled perfectly.


Are you using a paper gasket or the rubber gasket? The later plastic body one bolt auto pumps used a flat spring to hold the rear of the pump firmly against the gasket. It actually works pretty well.

Mark has a real good write up on the auto pumps with pictures around here somewhere.
Thanks Steve I still have the spring from the old pump. Are there witness marks on the clamshell body for drilling out the screw holes? I dont remember seeing any in the tank. If not what recommendation do you have for lining up drill points? I was sent a paper gasket and used Hylomar on it. Should I try the spring?
 

Steve

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Thanks Steve I still have the spring from the old pump. Are there witness marks on the clamshell body for drilling out the screw holes? I dont remember seeing any in the tank. If not what recommendation do you have for lining up drill points? I was sent a paper gasket and used Hylomar on it. Should I try the spring?

Yes, try the spring. The worst that can happen is it doesn't help.

Some tanks have them and some don't. Let me see if I can rip a pic off the internet real quick.
 

Steve

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Ok so this pic you can clearly see the punch marks to drill the tank for the 3 bolt oil pump.

Screenshot_20231012-201623.png



On this tank you can see there are domes cast into the tank where the holes should be. If you are accurate with a center punch to keep your drill from walking then you should be close enough for a leak free working auto pump. The thing to remember is to drill them square to the pump mounting surface to keep the pump aligned.

Screenshot_20231012-201804.png
 
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