MCCULLOCH The official McCulloch thread

[Maintenance Chief]

Got the 8th or 9th "last part needed to finish up the saw" for my SP81. Turns out the flywheel taper was fubared too, so I coughed up $40 for a n.o.s. flywheel. Kinda odd how the original flywheel is bare but the replacement is painted black, maybe so you can tell if the flywheel has been swapped? Hopefully this weekend I'll quit slackin' and finally button up this saw.
View attachment 389852

The old PM60 had the same problem. I had a steel shim pack that I cut a tapered sleeve out of, .002 . It was cutting that way for a year before I switched flywheels. I didn't have spares back then.

 

[edju1958]

Dream (Brett),trying to get a good used cylinder for your 125 will be next to impossible,HOWEVER,Vinny has a friend who has a machine shop who can bore out the cylinder & put an iron/steel sleeve in it for a reasonable fee.He did it successfully with a couple 82cc engines.You may want to contact him about this.

 

[Dream]

Dream (Brett),trying to get a good used cylinder for your 125 will be next to impossible,HOWEVER,Vinny has a friend who has a machine shop who can bore out the cylinder & put an iron/steel sleeve in it for a reasonable fee.He did it successfully with a couple 82cc engines.You may want to contact him about this.

Thanks Ed.
I was either going to do that or go the long and expensive route of rechroming.
Wont be doing either for awhile.

 

[cinci5]

I have 10 of the #24104 newly made primer cups listed if anyone needs any.
Thanks

 

[heimannm]

Frankensaw from Woody Strommen. Lots of miss-matched parts, unsightly array of incorrect fasteners, low compression, and I discovered the piston was installed upside down. I went ahead and changed the worn out old piston for a better used piston from a stash I got from Jeff McNee a while ago. Took some +0.030 rings and filed the end down to achieve an acceptable end gap. I should have this one dressed up as a 10-10 Pro Automatic tomorrow but with a black tank top and carburetor adjustment through the boot on the side of the airbox.

Mark

 

[heimannm]

Interesting not on the older 10 Series models, the rod cap has the threads so the screws install from the piston side of the assembly.



Mark

 

[farminkarman]

Good afternoon fellas. I have a 10-10 and a 7-10 that no longer have any grip material on the handle. Have any of you tried using the Stihl handlebar hose to recover a Mac handle? If there are other good or better options, I'm all ears.

 

[Squareground3691]

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[Squareground3691]

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I haven’t used it , but herd decent things about people using it in different forums.

 

[farminkarman]

I haven’t used it , but herd decent things about people using it in different forums.

Interesting! I might have to check this out

 

[Squareground3691]

Interesting! I might have to check this out

Here’s a pic found using it ,

 

[Dream]

So I have a couple of questions on 10 series Mac fuel caps.
More specifically, the vents.
There must be at least a couple dozen here on working saws/parts saws/pieces ive aquired.
None of them work.

Just curious as to what anyone has done.
Ive got a few ideas I'll share as well.

First one.
This is the cap with the tiny metal line molded in that goes from the center of cap to the outer lip.
Some have a retainer chain and a brass sleeve with a small spring.
I'm assuming those took a Stihl-typer duckbill valve, and that it simply sat between the spring and the cap. Held in place by pressing the brass sleeve into the cap.
Seems like an easy fix. Any thoughts?

 

[Dream]

Next is this one.
Not sure what would have been in there, as there was just some black goop I scraped out.
This cap seems to be more common on 1010As that I have.
The recess that leads to the hole in the center of the cap is hex-shaped. There is a plastic cylinder that should have been pressed in to hold the valve.

I'm considering grinding the hex out to the approximate size of the larger bore for the plug, then punching out two aluminum discs with a small hole in the center that would capture a Stihl-type duckbill valve, then pressing the plug back in place to hold it all.
Make sense?

 

[Maintenance Chief]

So I have a couple of questions on 10 series Mac fuel caps.
More specifically, the vents.
There must be at least a couple dozen here on working saws/parts saws/pieces ive aquired.
None of them work.

Just curious as to what anyone has done.
Ive got a few ideas I'll share as well.

First one.
This is the cap with the tiny metal line molded in that goes from the center of cap to the outer lip.
Some have a retainer chain and a brass sleeve with a small spring.
I'm assuming those took a Stihl-typer duckbill valve, and that it simply sat between the spring and the cap. Held in place by pressing the brass sleeve into the cap.
Seems like an easy fix. Any thoughts?
View attachment 390572View attachment 390573

Its the short Homelite duck bill valve, but yes clean it well with brake cleaner and install the spring,duckbill,then brass pipe.
As a matter of fact the red homelite fuel cap fits the McCulloch fuel tank.

 

[Dream]

Its the short Homelite duck bill valve, but yes clean it well with brake cleaner and install the spring,duckbill,then brass pipe.
As a matter of fact the red homelite fuel cap fits the McCulloch fuel tank.

Actually received a 1010 lightweight from @timg that had a Homelite gas cap on it.

 

[Dream]

Third style is this two piece type. Ive already fixed one by just popping it apart and putting in a new db valve.
Chief, I'll try the Homelite style. Seems like it would fit better. Thanks.

 

[Squareground3691]

Shirt Day ,

 

[heimannm]

The green Poulan duckbill will also work in the 10 Series fuel caps with the brass insert with our without the lanyard. Max says drilling them out with a #18 bit makes the duckbill fit better, I've done it both ways and without enlarging the hole they will sometimes still weep a bit. I guess depending on the corrosion or goop left inside it must squeeze the duckbill just enough to keep it from sealing properly.

The one with the hex shape takes the same 53766 duckbill valve as used in the large frame saw fuel caps, that retainer ring is all there is to hold it in place. The ones with the springs were supposed to vent to release pressure if the pressure in the tank gets close to what the metering needle will hold but I've never found them to vent reliably under 10 PSI or so.

There are several more styles of fuel caps to fit the 10 Series saws with plastic inserts (at least two different sizes/types) and one with a molded in aluminum insert. The plastic inserts will twist out just like the brass, but you will need to enlarge the hole in the center to accept either the red Homelite or green Poulan type duckbill valves. The ones with the aluminum insert require destroying the insert to get it out and making up some kind of replacement it you want to replace the duckbill valve in them.











Mark

 

[heimannm]

 

[farminkarman]

View attachment 390628

View attachment 390629

Great info, and thanks for sharing!