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MCCULLOCH The official McCulloch thread

Discussion in 'Brand Specific Section' started by Frank bierce, Jan 25, 2016.

  1. nbb_

    nbb_ Super OPE Member GoldMember

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    Ive had some success placing some tag-board over the tab to act as a wick for the crud. Also try using some plumbing solder paste, the newer style made for lead free solder. Last, would be to use a solder with at least 2 or 3 % silver. The silver makes it flow much better.
     
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  2. Dream

    Dream Mastermind Approved!

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    Put two pieces of desoldering braid down under the tab for my last attempt.
    Crud chose the best path, which WASNT the aforementioned desoldering braid.
    Think I'm going to take some advice from the older/wiser group here and "cook" the impurities out at about 200 degrees Fahrenheit in the oven.
    I have a good aftermarket high voltage lead that I can use on this coil.
    I also have an "EXTREMELY" good support "network" to help me with parts for this beast.
    Thanks again to @MedicineMan .
     
  3. Dream

    Dream Mastermind Approved!

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    Got the used coil in today from @MedicineMan
    Now have spark.
    New fuel filter, put a little mix in the tank, and started pulling.
    Popped after about 12 pulls.
    Started and ran.
    Doesnt idle yet, and there are other issues, but it makes chainsaw noises now!:campeon:
    Thanks again D!
    This ole gal sounds AMAZING!
    0125231832_HDR.jpg
     
  4. Steve

    Steve Excellence! GoldMember

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    Awesome news Brent!!
     
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  5. Squareground3691

    Squareground3691 Pinnacle OPE Member

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    The sound of sweet Mcculloch music !!
     
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  6. Dream

    Dream Mastermind Approved!

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    And the smell.
    Something about the way one smells when it first fires up after a long slumber is just satisfying to me.
    All the old oil and mix gets warmed up and burned out of the exhaust.
    And the bar oil crud all over it.
    I never clean one until ive heard it run, unless its in pieces...
     
  7. Dream

    Dream Mastermind Approved!

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    Thought I figured out the idling issue.
    Idle screw wasnt touching the tang.
    Then I realized I had left the high idle plunger engaged.:rolleyes::oops:
    May still have it. Low speed screw was only out 1/2 turn.
    Set that to about 1 1/4.
    I'll see if that made it better after I fix the recoil and check on the clutch.
    There are some funny noises coming from both of those.
     
  8. edju1958

    edju1958 Super OPE Member

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    A few days ago my older brother brought his Stihl MS290 over for me to have a look at.I loaned him my PM 10-10 in it's place.He wasn't even home yet when I called him to tell him his saw was running,it just needed a new fuel filter.He just has a "knack" for breaking saws.That night he called me to ask where the adjuster screw is for the chain.I told him where it was & when he brought it back the chain was hanging down about 1 1/2 in.He said the saw had quit running after he'd put about a half tank of fuel through it.For some reason the wire that runs from the chip to the coil likes to come off.I told him,but that'd require taking the recoil off.If I talked him through it he wouldn't be able to do it & he'd end up losing half of the screws anyway.So I got the saw back 2 days later dead as a doornail.He said it was hard to start too.I thought that to be kinda odd,it always started within a couple of pulls.I replaced the chip wire back on the coil & still had no spark.I thought maybe a dead chip?As I looked a bit closer,I found that where the coil wire goes through the recoil (that's the way I run them),it had worn through the insulation on the coil wire & was grounding out.I gave it a couple wraps of electrical tape & it fired up on the first pull.Meanwhile he killed his Stihl saw again.From what I can deduce it's either a bad plug,or the carb needs to be gone through.
     
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  9. heimannm

    heimannm Here For The Long Haul! GoldMember

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    Slowly but surely...

    20230116_160513.jpg

    20230116_160538.jpg

    20230116_160705.jpg

    20230124_150055.jpg

    20230125_075925.jpg

    To be continued...

    Mark
     
  10. heimannm

    heimannm Here For The Long Haul! GoldMember

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    20230125_172813.jpg

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    20230125_172838.jpg

    If anyone out there has a small lathe with a cam follower, or knows someone that would be willing to make a few small cams I am in need of some extras for the points. I have one piece available to use as a model.

    As an alternative, if anyone has a spare handle assembly or two...I have the ignition shafts but need the cams, starter base, and starter pulley in order to get all three in running condition.

    Mark
     
  11. Dream

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    Nice BP unit Mr Heimann!
    Ive alwys wanted one.
    Happy as heck to have a " runner" SP 125.
    Cant wait to see what you do with this one.
     
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  12. Woodslasher

    Woodslasher Teh debil

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  13. heimannm

    heimannm Here For The Long Haul! GoldMember

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    Good to know the young folks are doing what they can for me. Thanks Dan
     
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  14. davidwyby

    davidwyby Desert beaver GoldMember

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    Pics of cam?
     
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  15. Maintenance Chief

    Maintenance Chief Disrupting the peace with an old chainsaw

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    Whats a complete BP 1 weight when all said and done ?
    Thats alot of innovation in a small saw!
     
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  16. Al Smith

    Al Smith Here For The Long Haul!

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  17. Lnk

    Lnk Pinnacle OPE Member

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    You have good taste in meters. Had to check to make sure it wasn't mine. Lol
     
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  18. heimannm

    heimannm Here For The Long Haul! GoldMember

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    @davidwybw - thanks for your consideration, here are some photos of the points operating cam but first a little background. Some years ago a member over on AS contacted me about parts for a BP-1 he had. He was missing a number of parts and being a retired machinist thought he would make what he needed, he just had to have some parts to use as a guide. I sent him the rear handle assembly off my saw and he made a starter pulley, the ignition shaft and cam, and several of the linkages/rods for the throttle, oiler, and primer, etc. He even made a primer button. Our agreement was that he would make two of everything and return the duplicates along with my handle when he was done. Of course I've saved those duplicates over the years and hesitate to use them, but I hope they will come in handy as models for the next guy that needs to make some parts.

    The cam:

    Overall length is about 5/8" , the bit of a step on one end if for proper orientation on the shaft.

    20230128_075238.jpg

    Better dimentions of the O.D. will follow. You can see that rather than trying to broach a 1/16" keyway he drilled the keyway and this set up will use a 1/16" wire for the key.

    20230128_075252.jpg

    The O.D. of the ignition shaft/I.D. of the cam is 0.250"

    20230128_075341.jpg

    The ignition shaft has a 1/16" keyway, this is the one he made, I happened to get some spares in the parts lot from Discount Marine.

    20230128_075353.jpg

    20230128_075930.jpg

    More to come...

    Mark
     
  19. Lnk

    Lnk Pinnacle OPE Member

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    I know this is probably a stupid question, but is that a two cylinder engine? I see two throws and connecting rods. What model is it and I will look it up. Sorry for the slight derail.
     
  20. heimannm

    heimannm Here For The Long Haul! GoldMember

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    This is an OEM ignition shaft, the winged driver is plastic and it is not common to find one of the ear broken off. The OEM part use a groove and a retaining ring to locate the cam axially, the one Martin made just used the larger O.D. of the shaft.

    20230128_082838.jpg

    As you can see, even this OEM part is cracked after 60 years of rattling around in bags.

    20230128_082826.jpg

    20230128_082844.jpg

    The starter pulley and nylon bushing he made.

    20230128_082917.jpg

    20230128_082928.jpg

    Mark
     
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