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Al Smith

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Unless things have changed the rebuild kits for the little Zamas' are getting hard to find . Fact the last one I rebuilt I had to dig though a pile of old gaskets ,diaphragms etc to find any supple enough to work because I couldn't find a new one .
 

Dream

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Thanks Al. I may have the carb diaphrams in a kit box at dads house. I took all my old stuff up there a while back, since he has more time to tinler with them than I do. I'll give it a try. The muffler came loose on the 110 and destroyed the bolt holes and the exhaust flange, or id just get the 110 going.
 

Al Smith

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I can't remember exactly what size the holes are but would assume #10-32 .I'll take a look when I get back home but if that is the case you could probably tap them out to M6 which would be about the next size unless you could find #12 screws . Fact is if #10 is the size which is about M 5 the hole would most likely take the tap without running an M5 drill through it . There's a lot of ways to skin the same cat .
 

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No. 12's or 1/4-28 if you have enough room.

Mixing metric and US standard on a good 'ol American made saw? Horrors!!

McMaster Carr has no. 12 fasteners and no . 12 taps. I might even have some fasteners in the shop, will take a look. I have no. 12 taps and dies.

Happiness in a shop is having a lot of stuff collected over the years to make repairs, like bolts, nuts, screws, taps & dies.
 

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Thanks guys!
Also thanks to Mark. I'm hoping the Zama carb works.
The holes for the muffler have been wallowed out and are quote oblong. I havent measured, but it doesnt look like they will clean up with less than 1/4" to 5/16". Whoever had it never looked at that. The long chain brake cover was all that was holding the muffler in there. If I decided to fix it, would probably have to drill and tap oversize, then put in inserts.
 

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See, now I'm thinking I might just try to save BOTH mini Macs. Cant remember, but I think compression was good on both. 110 has a stripped bar stud to go with the stripped muffler bolts. Also, muffler is different on the 110. Doesn't have the cast muffler like the 25. It has a stamped steel one. Later saw for sure. Has the wrap over chain brake lever. Old muffler bolts almost look like 1/4-20 thread. Problem would be getting everything centered, so the hole pattern stays correct. Old muffler is wrecked from the bolts vibrating around, so that would have to be dealt with. Still, it would be nice to have the extra ccs from the 110. Could possibly put custom inserts in and use the muffler from the 25. Make a 25 "sleeper" maybe?
 

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Oh, did I mention I scored a Power Mac 6 when I found the 110? Great compression, and even has spark. Popped with some mix down the throat. Nastiest thing ive gotten in awhile. Air filter had layers of crud. Recoil cover screws are all stripped, and someone drilled out the holes and used masonry anchors to fasten it back on. Definitely need new inserts and some work there, but I think I can fix it and make it a runner.
Before and after pics.0312191618.jpg 0312191851.jpg
 

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Dont be hatin Altamaha! Its all Mac goodness, just not as big. Besides, I can't afford a 795 or SP125 at the prices they want now. Lord knows if I could.....
 

heimannm

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Zama kits are readily available on e-Bay and elsewhere. Easier to find than kits for the Walbro MDC carburetors.

Some of the Mini Mac saws had 10-24 screws holding the muffler on, others used 12-24 screws...go figure.

Dream - I have a box of new & used mufflers of both types (cast & stamped) if you need one. You pay shipping.

Do what you must to get the PM6 running, they are much more useful saws than the Mini Mac models.

Mark
 

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Dont be hatin Altamaha! Its all Mac goodness, just not as big. Besides, I can't afford a 795 or SP125 at the prices they want now. Lord knows if I could.....


No hate, I just have not ran across any yet!! I like all the old Macs.
 

Al Smith

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Most of the time threaded fasteners fail because they are under torqued . It takes 4 times thread diameter in hole depth for the same strength in the base metal ( aluminum ) as the fastener .Quite frankly many never had that in the design .Then comes slotted head screws which aren't the best thing to use on a vibrating chainsaw .I usually replace them with either socket heads or torx heads myself .I'm more interested in practicality and function than I am in "correctness " as if a chainsaw were a fully restored 1938 Harley model EL or a Model A Ford .
 

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One of my 075 Stihls was noted for loose fasteners. I replaced most with new, after cleaning out the threads with a tap, and used red Loctite. A properly torqued socket head with red Loctite stays put. And I used Loctite primer.

I got in the habit with checking all fasteners at each chain sharpening, especially with my old McCullochs that are pre-AV.

Some of the fasteners on my 090AV are slotted head, I will be replacing them with socket heads.
 

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Seems like minis and 10 series are plentiful down here. Not much else, in my area anyways.
Thanks for the offer Mark. I'll see what I end up needing.
 

Al Smith

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The problem with loctite red thread locker is once it sets it takes around 400 degrees of heat to release it .It's about like a rivet in some situations . It has it's place though .
 

Altamaha

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The problem with loctite red thread locker is once it sets it takes around 400 degrees of heat to release it .It's about like a rivet in some situations . It has it's place though .

The Weller D550 is your friend.
 
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