Lumber, not much for chips with this stuff. I’m not sure what they are doing with the bark on this stuff. They normally burn some of it for electricity. At least some mills here.
I’d like to make some fence posts, as I’m running out of railroad ties, and treated fir and pine are very pricey. I’ve got plenty of Port Orford and Incense cedar of the right size on the place. I was thinking about peeling them, drying, and then soaking the bottom 3 feet or so in diesel or oil. Anybody tried that? I’m not sure how long they’d last, or if it’s just a waste of time, but I don’t really want to pay $40 for a 6”treated pine post.
I used some cedar logs from dead/blowdown cedars on my place to make sign posts for out front a few years back, all I did was char the ends and they seem to be holding up well so far.
Do saws indeed start fires with the exhaust, or is that left over from the days of 16:1 and steel wool in the muffler? I've seen sparks off my bar/chain...
Short answer. Yes.
Familiar with the western tinderbox. Walking through Mt. Laguna burns from last year as we speak.
There was a 1/2 acre fire 1 mile down the road from me on Fry-day. I'm thinking this is gonna be the year my county gets "the big one" and everything gets cooked.
brackish, meaning salty, meaning it doesnt support the kind of life that rots posts. mud, meaning completely anaerobic, no rotting. bury a “treated” post these days in a moist area and you wont get 10 years out of it. mold and algae have basically nothing to do with posts rotting. read the tag on a treated piece of lumber, it will say copper-azole treated. the azole is for propiconazole, or a similar DMI fungicide. both copper and -azole compounds are strong anti-fungal agents.
I spent Thursday walking the fence finding rotted "treated" posts that were installed around 2012 and should have been replaced a few years ago. Creosote is the way to go, the old creosote treated rr ties are very rot resistant.
