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CLEARCUT

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All that burnt wood,,
What happens to it??
Lumber,, if so what happens to the bark.
Chips?? Do they debark it??
Lumber, not much for chips with this stuff. I’m not sure what they are doing with the bark on this stuff. They normally burn some of it for electricity. At least some mills here.
 

CLEARCUT

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D0012116-CC4C-4B47-A10A-1A5FE3D72082.jpeg3988EFCA-7BF0-4A30-B56F-F35D19A8CA14.jpegI’d like to make some fence posts, as I’m running out of railroad ties, and treated fir and pine are very pricey. I’ve got plenty of Port Orford and Incense cedar of the right size on the place. I was thinking about peeling them, drying, and then soaking the bottom 3 feet or so in diesel or oil. Anybody tried that? I’m not sure how long they’d last, or if it’s just a waste of time, but I don’t really want to pay $40 for a 6”treated pine post.
 

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View attachment 296538View attachment 296539I’d like to make some fence posts, as I’m running out of railroad ties, and treated fir and pine are very pricey. I’ve got plenty of Port Orford and Incense cedar of the right size on the place. I was thinking about peeling them, drying, and then soaking the bottom 3 feet or so in diesel or oil. Anybody tried that? I’m not sure how long they’d last, or if it’s just a waste of time, but I don’t really want to pay $40 for a 6”treated pine post.
I used some cedar logs from dead/blowdown cedars on my place to make sign posts for out front a few years back, all I did was char the ends and they seem to be holding up well so far.
 

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SpaceBus

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View attachment 296538View attachment 296539I’d like to make some fence posts, as I’m running out of railroad ties, and treated fir and pine are very pricey. I’ve got plenty of Port Orford and Incense cedar of the right size on the place. I was thinking about peeling them, drying, and then soaking the bottom 3 feet or so in diesel or oil. Anybody tried that? I’m not sure how long they’d last, or if it’s just a waste of time, but I don’t really want to pay $40 for a 6”treated pine post.

Dirt and water don't kill posts, mold and algae make wood posts rot. All of Venice is built on top of posts buried in the brackish mud, and the untreated timbers don't rot. If you use backfill material that is well draining and you pressure wash them near the ground level every year they should last for quite some time. Honestly treating the bottoms is not really that important if the bottom of the hole is filled with gravel and drains well. Most posts will rot just below the soil level and everything beneath the soil will be intact and so will everything above it. This is due to the fungal presence in the top soil, but fungus doesn't like growing in sandy gravel or other well draining substrate. Algae can form on the posts, but cleaning them every year will alleviate that issue.
 

CLEARCUT

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Starting to have flare-ups popping up with the hot weather and low humidity. I’m glad I fire-watched for a bit extra yesterday when I saw smoke start rising up out of the strip. Old duff log that I had disturbed decided to flame-up.
 

Skeans1

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Starting to have flare-ups popping up with the hot weather and low humidity. I’m glad I fire-watched for a bit extra yesterday when I saw smoke start rising up out of the strip. Old duff log that I had disturbed decided to flame-up.

Are you setup with a wagon this year?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

davidwyby

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Starting to have flare-ups popping up with the hot weather and low humidity. I’m glad I fire-watched for a bit extra yesterday when I saw smoke start rising up out of the strip. Old duff log that I had disturbed decided to flame-up.
Do saws indeed start fires with the exhaust, or is that left over from the days of 16:1 and steel wool in the muffler? I've seen sparks off my bar/chain...
 

Catbuster

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Do saws indeed start fires with the exhaust, or is that left over from the days of 16:1 and steel wool in the muffler? I've seen sparks off my bar/chain...

Oh yeah. Especially as the sun comes out & humidity drops. A lot of the time put west, where there really are two seasons, wet & dry, you’re sitting in a tinderbox come August & there is a propensity to light off.
 

chiselbit

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Years back I had some 372’s and I did fast get’r done muffler mods by just drilling out the front of the mufflers through the little plate across bottom? Then I could insert a spark screen under the plate , bolt it back in place and thought I was good. Problem was when I was dogged into a big tree like in the back cut, that exhaust was blowing directly into the bark an inch away. I never actually started a fire because I was hyper aware but I think if a guy wasn’t paying attention it would be easy to do. Best to direct your exhaust off to the side
 

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View attachment 296538View attachment 296539I’d like to make some fence posts, as I’m running out of railroad ties, and treated fir and pine are very pricey. I’ve got plenty of Port Orford and Incense cedar of the right size on the place. I was thinking about peeling them, drying, and then soaking the bottom 3 feet or so in diesel or oil. Anybody tried that? I’m not sure how long they’d last, or if it’s just a waste of time, but I don’t really want to pay $40 for a 6”treated pine post.

I know people who use a paint roller and roofing tar
 

davidwyby

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Oh yeah. Especially as the sun comes out & humidity drops. A lot of the time put west, where there really are two seasons, wet & dry, you’re sitting in a tinderbox come August & there is a propensity to light off.
Familiar with the western tinderbox. Walking through Mt. Laguna burns from last year as we speak.
 
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Woodslasher

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Familiar with the western tinderbox. Walking through burns from last year as we speak.
There was a 1/2 acre fire 1 mile down the road from me on Fry-day. I'm thinking this is gonna be the year my county gets "the big one" and everything gets cooked.
 

cus_deluxe

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Dirt and water don't kill posts, mold and algae make wood posts rot. All of Venice is built on top of posts buried in the brackish mud
brackish, meaning salty, meaning it doesnt support the kind of life that rots posts. mud, meaning completely anaerobic, no rotting. bury a “treated” post these days in a moist area and you wont get 10 years out of it. mold and algae have basically nothing to do with posts rotting. read the tag on a treated piece of lumber, it will say copper-azole treated. the azole is for propiconazole, or a similar DMI fungicide. both copper and -azole compounds are strong anti-fungal agents.
 

Woodslasher

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brackish, meaning salty, meaning it doesn't support the kind of life that rots posts. mud, meaning completely anaerobic, no rotting. bury a “treated” post these days in a moist area and you wont get 10 years out of it.
I spent Thursday walking the fence finding rotted "treated" posts that were installed around 2012 and should have been replaced a few years ago. Creosote is the way to go, the old creosote treated rr ties are very rot resistant.
 
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