STIHL Progressive Depth Gauge Tools

[Wilhelm]

Just told a friend yesterday to stop cutting with a chain that had been poorly "sharpened" yesterday. Too small of a file so it had huge hook , the chain was about half life and the rakers had hardly been touched. I set him up with another bar and chain and told him I'd get it cutting right for him, I got one side done and flipped the clamp on the grinder(I wasn't filing it all back how it should have been by hand ), when I got started I saw a broken link. Not sure exactly what happened, but I'd blame it on the sharpening and improper use, a properly tuned chain makes cutting a pleasure and is much safer.

Big brand name chain or cheapo?

I am amazed how in this forum "fast cutting" is advocated, which includes both chains and saws, yet many utilize sub par chains.

I have Archer and TriLink besides my usual Oregon/Dolmar chains, neither of those two AM brands are fast by any measure.

Just saying.
This thought just keeps coming up whenever I read something about fast chains and saws.

TriLink chain, two out of two snapped on me - that is no coincidence.

 

[~WBF]

TriLink chain, two out of two snapped on me - that is no coincidence.

You just need a more powerful saw or a shorter bar.

I have gone as deep as .05-.06 on an Oregon chisel loop for my stock Dolmar PS-7900, 20" 3/8" B&C setup - she pulled the loop fiercely in hardwoods.
Chain never snapped and made it to becoming a stump chain.

Limbing with a chain featuring low rakers can also become very unpleasant, don't ask me how I know.

TriLink chain, two out of two snapped on me - that is no coincidence.

Why no! Why no, it certainly is not. haha.

 

[Wilhelm]

Why no! Why no it is certainly not. haha.

FYI, the TriLink loops were approximately to specs.
I even backed off a little on the second loop, it still broke at about 2/3rds worn.
They were on my Dolmar PS-7900 bucking gnarly hardwoods though, as do ALL my chains.
Worst chains I have ever encountered in regards of both performance and durability.
I found that they are only good for bucking mud encased logs.
The TriLink loops are also the only ones that nearly managed to max out my saws chain tensioner, those loops were stretching endlessly.

It is easy to overlook and ignore the fact that I keep writing that Oregon/Dolmar loops can take a lot a beating and abuse and that I did and do go aggressive on those.
Me setting rakers lower than recommended is not a trade off for a poor sharpening job either!
As a matter of fact, I like my chains to self feed and I rarely ever utilize my saws spikes other that as a bumper.

My main B&C setups are all 18-20", from 50cc to 79cc PH.
I tend to go a little more aggressive on the loops my PS-7300/7310 & PS-7900 wear to utilize the available power.
Each of my saws has only one dedicated work chain.

Besides, as if You guys grind/file Your chains to recommended specs!
Many of You keep going after those rakers with every touch up, I touch them a couple times during the chains whole life.

Also, I have posted pictures of my fully worn out chains.
@Philbert once noted that the tie straps show good wear indicating good chain tension and lubrication.

 

[Rob Stafari]

That is not the problem
I normally use short bars
60cc—>18“
70cc —>20“

When you make bore cuts, the problem with the rakers begins

Nothing worse than bore cutting with a jacked up grabby chain. I can make it work, but I know it cannot be good for the saw, let alone my elbows, absorbing all that energy. I tend to do a lot of bore cutting, so it is worth it to spend a little extra time and have a smooth cutting chain.

 

[SteveSr]

Did you see the bore cut in the video, your saw should be perfectly fine for boring and it should be just as capable as that 291.

I saw the video and do know how to bore cut which prompted my original question about what makes a good bore cutting chain.

The Oregon 22bpx is a safety chain and will not bore, if I' correct on the letters the stihl chain should be a non safety chain and would bore better, but I prefer full chisel for boring.
Hope this helps.

The 22BPX is not a old school safety chain with the humped (shark fin) links but it is reduced kickback. The reduced kickback feature doesn't prevent it from boring. I think that the 22BPX is similar to Stihl's newer RM3 chain.

My normal application is trail building and maintenance where the wood is not usually off the ground and/or clean and green. This is why we pretty much exclusively use semi-chisel chain. It stays sharp much longer.

Because of its more aggressive nature I would have expected full-chisel to not bore as easy as the semi-chisel chain but I guess that you have found out differently.

 

[chipper1]

Big brand name chain or cheapo?

I am amazed how in this forum "fast cutting" is advocated, which includes both chains and saws, yet many utilize sub par chains.

I have Archer and TriLink besides my usual Oregon/Dolmar chains, neither of those two AM brands are fast by any measure.

Just saying.
This thought just keeps coming up whenever I read something about fast chains and saws.

TriLink chain, two out of two snapped on me - that is no coincidence.

Pretty sure it's Oregon.
I don't break chains except when cutting in the dead of winter and with a chain that has lower rakers.
I do hit my rakers nearly every time I touch up the chain. But its because I want my chain to run consistently, its part of sharpening a chain and it makes it run most efficiently, that does equate to a fast chain but I'm not taking them way down trying to make up for sharpening or lack there of. To me its part of normal chain maintenance so I do it all the time, its just like tuning the cutters to the wood type I'm cutting and for the bar and powerhead I'm cutting with.
For my 50cc work saws I normally run semi chisel as I can "cut faster" when I don't have to be as concerned with hitting the ground. It's more efficient as I can be sure to cut all the way thru smaller branches rather than slowing down to keep full chisel of the ground/sharp, I also can usually get more tanks out of semi chisel without touching it up which makes it more efficient, I promote the "fastest" chain/saw combo for the job, many times its not what others think would be the fastest, its also the reason I use primarily autotune and mtronic saws on jobs.

 

[chipper1]

I saw the video and do know how to bore cut which prompted my original question about what makes a good bore cutting chain.



The 22BPX is not a old school safety chain with the humped (shark fin) links but it is reduced kickback. The reduced kickback feature doesn't prevent it from boring. I think that the 22BPX is similar to Stihl's newer RM3 chain.

My normal application is trail building and maintenance where the wood is not usually off the ground and/or clean and green. This is why we pretty much exclusively use semi-chisel chain. It stays sharp much longer.

Because of its more aggressive nature I would have expected full-chisel to not bore as easy as the semi-chisel chain but I guess that you have found out differently.

A good boring chain is a chain that is well tuned to the wood, if its grabby cross cutting it will most likely bore poorly.
Semi is probably the best in that application.
Semi is easy to bore with because it won't give the violent kickback a full chisel chain is capable of. I prefer a chain that will self feed into the bore and a full chisel chain will do that once the tip is buried, I consider that easy. A semi chisel chain you usually have to keep constant pressure(more than full chisel), which to me is more work and more of a safety hazard.
I don't think the bpx or similar chains with safety ramps or the anti vibe features bore as well as a non safety chain. Same thing as the semi chisel, it slows boring down.
Its important to use what works best for you and your circumstances though.

 

[Wilhelm]

Pretty sure it's Oregon.
I don't break chains except when cutting in the dead of winter and with a chain that has lower rakers.
I do hit my rakers nearly every time I touch up the chain. But its because I want my chain to run consistently, its part of sharpening a chain and it makes it run most efficiently, that does equate to a fast chain but I'm not taking them way down trying to make up for sharpening or lack there of. To me its part of normal chain maintenance so I do it all the time, its just like tuning the cutters to the wood type I'm cutting and for the bar and powerhead I'm cutting with.
For my 50cc work saws I normally run semi chisel as I can "cut faster" when I don't have to be as concerned with hitting the ground. It's more efficient as I can be sure to cut all the way thru smaller branches rather than slowing down to keep full chisel of the ground/sharp, I also can usually get more tanks out of semi chisel without touching it up which makes it more efficient, I promote the "fastest" chain/saw combo for the job, many times its not what others think would be the fastest, its also the reason I use primarily autotune and mtronic saws on jobs.

For me Oregon semi chisel was much slower cutting than Oregon full chisel on my PS-550.
I also did not notice semi chisel holding up significantly longer than full chisel in skidded oak logs.
What I did notice was that on the same PH semi chisel requires noticeably more power to cut than full chisel does - both round filed.

Just my observation, no more, no less.

 

[RI Chevy]

Semi chisel will always be slower

 

[~WBF]

I saw the video and do know how to bore cut which prompted my original question about what makes a good bore cutting chain.

Do you use a progressive gauge Steve? OR do you use a multi tooth contact gauge ( straddle/ saddle type gauge? Basically, do you tend to keep the teeth even? Anyway, as I said you are not duplicating 'text book filing' as you say It works with that set up in the oak on a stock chain. The 261 I use sometimes, already had a hand filed semi chisel chain on it that seemed fine to bore ash with at first but I couldn't do much with it in terms of self feedings at 0.025" other than the buck but I would still lay on the dog every chance I could. Needless to say, it would be all wrong trying to make a Humboldt when the little dog doesn't reach (Due to the buttressed or otherwise) or when bumping collars. Of course I am going to go back to my roots of life, my bread & and butter when put into a corner with some added 'hook & drop' After all, "we're here to log not f_ck the dog" (is the mentality). Well now it doesn't bore properly with some hardwoods.
Then you no what I did next, right?
Your welcome.

 

[Wilhelm]

Semi chisel will always be slower

For me semi chisel felt painfully slower.
And I mostly buck skidded hardwood logs.

You should have seen the dried mud chunks I broke off my current turkey oak logs today!

I have no heavy equipment to move the logs, I have to buck them as they are.

In order to stay on topic . . .

 

[RI Chevy]

Lol. I do the same Wilhelm...
Just me and my saw... [emoji106]

 

[~WBF]

In order to stay on topic . . .
View attachment 215741

Lol...all right! we'll let you in out of the cold. Despite going against the grain.
You Rebel you.

 

[Bjorn]

Bpx 22 chain

 

[RI Chevy]

Is that you in the vid Bjorn?

 

[~WBF]

I never figured out why they put full helmets on crash test dummies..haha
J/K ..the saw flys. Nice rev. That's a stock chain then? NO?

 

[~WBF]

Chains sink PDQ in some hardwoods though. Especially when you have a high rev that's holding

 

[Bjorn]

Is that you in the vid Bjorn?

No. I find it on youtube, But its from Sweden. The chain ist 22 BPX and handfiled and rakers cut a little extra. And 9 pin rim on the saw.

 

[RI Chevy]

Guy did a nice job with the tree...[emoji106] Saw ran great. Just a small bar for big saw.

 

[Bjorn]

Guy did a nice job with the tree...[emoji106] Saw ran great. Just a small bar for big saw.[/
better with a small and Quick than a big and flabby.