Stihl MS695XP SUPER Build Thread

[Nutball]

Good idea, I just hate the thought of taking the case apart after the trouble of putting it together, and I've never taken one apart before. I could try using a vacuum while grinding on the assembled case, it would be slow going keeping the rpm low so as not to throw shavings away from the vacuum.

The cylinder is still a ways off from fitting. It already looks tight, and still has to drop a lot more. I don't like how the bolt holes have turned out. I'm thinking I'll JB Weld the holes and redrill them with the hard part being keeping the drill straight cutting partially through hard aluminum and lots of soft epoxy. There isn't much room for the bolt heads to fit the new pattern with a 58mm bore. I'll have to make a nylon adapter of sorts to try to align a 660 gasket to mark the holes.

Looking ahead, I'll need .100" cut out of the squish band, and a little more than .060" off the top of the piston. I'll loose the top ring due to lost plating at the top of the cylinder. Would it be a good idea to drill little holes to put pressure behind the remaining ring?

 

[Lightning Performance]

Make sure it dosent free port.

You don't like your ports free? da fook lol

 

[Lightning Performance]

Good idea, I just hate the thought of taking the case apart after the trouble of putting it together, and I've never taken one apart before. I could try using a vacuum while grinding on the assembled case, it would be slow going keeping the rpm low so as not to throw shavings away from the vacuum.

The cylinder is still a ways off from fitting. It already looks tight, and still has to drop a lot more. I don't like how the bolt holes have turned out. I'm thinking I'll JB Weld the holes and redrill them with the hard part being keeping the drill straight cutting partially through hard aluminum and lots of soft epoxy. There isn't much room for the bolt heads to fit the new pattern with a 58mm bore. I'll have to make a nylon adapter of sorts to try to align a 660 gasket to mark the holes.

Looking ahead, I'll need .100" cut out of the squish band, and a little more than .060" off the top of the piston. I'll loose the top ring due to lost plating at the top of the cylinder. Would it be a good idea to drill little holes to put pressure behind the remaining ring?

I don't wana burst your bubble man but this stuff sounds like a JMS build lol.
You need a belt sander and more grit in your bearings and used... more used parts.
Your gonna need a new clutch man, it's a requirement
Maybe move the transfer entries?

Subbed

 

[Nutball]

I'll see if I can cut the squish band and cylinder extension tonight. I have another piston that is still long, so I'll give grinding on the case a shot, and use a vacuum at the same time and see how that goes. It seems a bit pointless to go with a big bore when it will free port a lot.

 

[Nutball]

 

[Nutball]

My stupid dial indicator keeps freezing up.

 

[srcarr52]

Good idea, I just hate the thought of taking the case apart after the trouble of putting it together, and I've never taken one apart before. I could try using a vacuum while grinding on the assembled case, it would be slow going keeping the rpm low so as not to throw shavings away from the vacuum.

The cylinder is still a ways off from fitting. It already looks tight, and still has to drop a lot more. I don't like how the bolt holes have turned out. I'm thinking I'll JB Weld the holes and redrill them with the hard part being keeping the drill straight cutting partially through hard aluminum and lots of soft epoxy. There isn't much room for the bolt heads to fit the new pattern with a 58mm bore. I'll have to make a nylon adapter of sorts to try to align a 660 gasket to mark the holes.

Looking ahead, I'll need .100" cut out of the squish band, and a little more than .060" off the top of the piston. I'll loose the top ring due to lost plating at the top of the cylinder. Would it be a good idea to drill little holes to put pressure behind the remaining ring?

Why not make a spacer to run between the cylinder and case?

Also I’d fill the existing holes with aluminum bolts covered in epoxy so you have some structure for the new holes you intend to drill.

 

[Nutball]

Why not make a spacer to run between the cylinder and case?

Because I didn't think I had any practical way of doing that, but I'll look into it. I just remembered I might have a piece of scrap aluminum that is the right width and thickness, shouldn't be hard.

Also I’d fill the existing holes with aluminum bolts covered in epoxy so you have some structure for the new holes you intend to drill.

Thanks for the good idea. I tend to forget stuff like that even though I recently did that to a mounting block for cutting squish bands because I drilled too big of a hole to tap, filled with epoxy, and tapped it, which lasted 2-3 uses, then epoxied in a rod to re drill and thread.

 

[Nutball]

No rush till I get some more details figured out. Your input is welcome and helpful.

Without cylinder extension or piston skirt cut:
EX: 100
TR: 112.5
IN: 73.5

With cylinder extension cut & no spacers under the cylinder I estimate:
EX: 105-110
TR: ~130
IN: 85-90

I have scrap aluminum to make a .060 spacer or two, and as long as I don't screw it up, I'll go with 2 sheets for about .120". That should end up somewhere around 103, 120, 87, so I'll just raise the intake for the most part. Due to the weight of the piston, and being a FT crank, I was considering porting this one for peak power at lower rpm to hopefully get some run time out of it before the bearings blow, and I like low end torque. At least I'd be left with a cylinder that now fits a 660, and it could be used on a high quality bottom end and ported for a higher rpm power peak.

The piston crown is very thick: .180-.200", I was thinking of cutting it concave for less weight and more volume.

Fun fact: a new Hyway 395 BB cylinder weighs 1.90lbs

 

[Nutball]

I'm cutting the cylinder spacers now.

 

[Nutball]

So, how should I go about cutting the plated squish band of the hyway cylinder without leaving a flakey mess of the plating? I got the squeak, squeak, boom just cutting the bottom.

Hyway plating appears to be .004" thick.

 

[huskihl]

So, how should I go about cutting the plated squish band of the hyway cylinder without leaving a flakey mess of the plating? I got the squeak, squeak, boom just cutting the bottom.
View attachment 271650
Hyway plating appears to be .004" thick.

.004”....consider yourself lucky. Meteor has to be at least .010”. Take it slow. .001” or less per pass and good carbide will score it out of there. Doesn’t leave it flaky

 

[Nutball]

I really expected it to be thicker, I'm sure it varies as you can see spots deeper than the honing marks. I'll give shaving away at it a go. I took the precaution of cutting the plating thin with a cutoff wheel before cutting the base extension in case it wanted to chip off chunks just like it did, but first I will shave more off the flywheel side of the cylinder so the bore aligns to the case better.