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Stihl MS660 Questions

HandLogger

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We've got an MS660 here that sat in a cargo container for far too long, so it came as no surprise that it won't start. As we're always short on time, I'd prefer to simply replace the OEM carb and get it over with, as opposed to a rebuild. When I researched a replacement carb, I found quite a few "economical" carbs that I assume are of Asian origin. My first question is what kind of luck any of the MS660 owners have had with these carbs? If your experience was a bad one, which brand/model would any MS660 owner reading this recommend?

While I'm replacing the carb, I'd also like to mod/replace the factory muffler with something that might add some performance to this particular saw. We've had very good luck doing this with our smaller Stihl saws; hence, the interest. If anyone has any thoughts about their preferred MS660 muffler mod/replacement, I'd really like to read them.

Thank you kindly for your time and have a wonderful New Year! :beer-toast1:
 

Maintenance Chief

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As far as carburetor replacement I always xlean and throw a factory kit in them first , its cheaper and I'm not out much if it doesn't work. There's oem carbs ranging from 90-150$ on ebay. Personally I like to buy any Aftermarket stuff from Dukes Sawsalvage in Pennsylvania @ who is also a member of this forum and site sponsor.
They ship Fast and communicate great.
I'd buy the dual port muffler and carb from them.
@Duke Thieroff
 

Duke Thieroff

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As far as carburetor replacement I always xlean and throw a factory kit in them first , its cheaper and I'm not out much if it doesn't work. There's oem carbs ranging from 90-150$ on ebay. Personally I like to buy any Aftermarket stuff from Dukes Sawsalvage in Pennsylvania @ who is also a member of this forum and site sponsor.
They ship Fast and communicate great.
I'd buy the dual port muffler and carb from them.
@Duke Thieroff
Thanks Ira!
 

Dennisthemenace

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You're sure it's the carb? Got spark? Sometimes a coil will fail while just sitting. Did you squirt a bit of fuel down the carb? Or was it left sitting with fuel in it for 2 or 3 years? If the latter a bit of a clean up and a kit should solve it. Only takes 20 mins. It takes 10 minutes to fit a new carb.
A 660 needs the dual port front cover 1122 140 800. I don't think you could get a 660 in Australia without one.
 

HandLogger

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All good questions, mate. We stay pretty busy, but I'm pretty sure that I checked the coil for spark ... and, yes, it sat in a cargo container, fueled up, for well over a year.

This is not intended as a Stihl bash, but I've never been impressed with this particular saw - which we purchased brand new. It's always been a bugger to start and - even when I use it (for it's 32" bar) - it never impressed me. On the other hand, we have a modded MS361 here that is my "go to" 20-inch all-round Monster ... and our MS200Ts "ain't" too shabby, either ... so, once again, nothing against the Stihl owners ... well ... because I am one. :smoking:

By the way, given the insane pricing for new brand name carbs, I just might make the time for that rebuild you suggested.
 

hacskaroly

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When I researched a replacement carb, I found quite a few "economical" carbs that I assume are of Asian origin.
A mechanic I used to work with told me that just about everything on the chainsaw can be replaced with aftermarket parts without much issue, except the carb. I always first try to replace the diaphragms, gaskets and such in the original carb (unless destroyed by ethanol) and see if I can get it running. So far have not had much luck with the Far East carbs. For a few dollars you can try a repair kit, then if it doesn't work, I would look for an OEM carb if possible.
 

HandLogger

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Would the folks on the thread recommend soaking the carb before installing rebuild parts or simply using spray-on carb cleaner and carb brushes?

If you prefer soaking your carbs first, would you kindly recommend a good soaking/cleaning agent?
 

Czed

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bogieboy

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https://www.walmart.com/ip/Berryman-B-9-Chem-Dip-Parts-Cleaner-with-Basket-96-oz/17491945
This stuff has worked great for me.
Be careful with pressurized carb or brake cleaner in carbs you may damage it.
Gotta watch the chem dip if the carb has rubber/viton check valves pressed into the body, it will destroy them.... chem dip is great for larger float carbs though...

On small diaphragm carbs i use a 10:1 mix of water and castle 2-22 degreaser... works great and is not going to cause issues with the check valves, it also happens to be what i use in my ultrasonic cleaner, i just toss the carb body in without the ultrasonic, holds the water at about 175°F, it melts the crud right out...
 
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