Stihl M-Tronic Version 3.0
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sawmikaze
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I've tried to let it idle after tons of cuts with firewood on my other computer stihls and it seemed ok..idk..I do that anyway to let the saw gradually cool down.
They either work or they dont... I don't give a sh!t what anyone says
huskyboy
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So the 661 is working just fine and back to it’s old beast mode self. I guess resetting it worked for me. 90secs idle on choke then off..start on run position and idle 90 secs again then off. Then run piss out of it.
RI Chevy
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Thanks Ryan. I haven't run my 261 enough yet to notice any hard start issues. I baby my equipment and have time on my hands. Just try to follow tips given to me by other k knowledgeable members like yourself.
Hopefully my saw always starts up. I think I also read that Stihl says to always start on choke everytime for mtronic saws. Does something internally with mtronic. ????
I am used to my old skool carb saws. Lol. Always start up for me!
Hopefully my saw always starts up. I think I also read that Stihl says to always start on choke everytime for mtronic saws. Does something internally with mtronic. ????
I am used to my old skool carb saws. Lol. Always start up for me!
ABarrick
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It can't be as bad as a 540xpt lol. The only way I've found to use a 540 is just let the bleeping thing run all day. They are a total pita to use in a start/stop fashion. Only brand new saw I ever contemplated chucking from a tree.
MustangMike
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I always start my warm M Tronic saws in Run, not Start position, I don't care what the instructions say.
I think that is why some of them get flooded.
I think that is why some of them get flooded.
longbowch
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I must be lucky, my 441c starts on the first pull. Most of the time. My 550, that’s another story.
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I’m just on my 3rd tank on my 201, no serious problems so far. It’s not real happy with the 14” bar buried, wants light pressure but not broke in yet either.
Like you say they either work or they don’t. No time to be losing money while in the bucket on a saw that won’t start or run right.
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Gonna send it to Randy soon for the whole monkey works.
PogoInTheWoods
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I've never read or heard anywhere that the start position should be used for a warm start. A warm M-tronic saw should fire right up in the run position. Some of the manuals infer the start position is for 'starting' without specifying cold, but it's not normally for warm starts unless the saw is being restarted after running out of fuel.
The start position mechanically (not electronically) chokes the carb and activates the micro-switch on the side of the carb which actuates the solenoid (via a small voltage from a diode in the switch) to get some fuel flowing. If for some reason the switch doesn't actuate the solenoid, no fuel will get to the cylinder. On the other hand, the saw can flood fairly easily if the solenoid decides to stick open for whatever reason or the carb is already full of fuel, or even because it was pulled over too rapidly during a cold start attempt.
The claim is that the 'system' can tell what the temperature and altitude are and everything is adjusted accordingly in the 'start' position to deliver the precise fuel 'dosage' for a perfect start every time under any conditions. (Can I get an Ahem?) Not sure where they're hiding the thermometer and altimeter in these things, but they should also include a speedometer to measure how fast they're flying through the air when they get thrown out of a trees and buckets by pissed off operators callin' B.S. on all that crap.
Fact is, the saws aren't quite as smart as Stihl wants everyone to think they are and there are just too many methods spread around by all kinds of sources (including Stihl) explaining how one is supposed to go about training, operating, maintaining, and resetting the particular system on any given saw. One method says use the chain brake when calibrating. Another says not to, and don't use a bar and chain..., but make damned sure ya take the sprocket cover off first! Then there seems to be some unique magic or secret voodoo (or just plain old misinformation) for every software version out there which confuses things even more and has us trying to out think the system..., which is actually a very simple system consisting of the same basic troubleshooting for a no start condition as a conventional system. It's either getting fuel or it's not. It's either getting spark or it's not. Ya check for either one the same way you always have. If it floods, you remedy that the same way you would with any saw. It's pretty safe to assume that a cold start situation in the triangle position that doesn't fire up in a half dozen pulls or so is probably on its way to flooding. At that point there's nothing to lose by trying a few pulls in the run position to see if it'll clear out and pop without pouring more fuel into the situation if it's already flooding. If nothing there, go back to start position and pull till it either starts or you're convinced it's flooded or has a spark problem. Then either dry it out or figure out your no spark issue provided there's fuel in the tank, you have good compression, and aren't overlooking something else really obvious.
As for the software versions and all the chatter there, it's become my understanding that v1.0 and v1.1 has been the only software seeing general release in the states until the recent release of the v3.0 362's and 661's along with the new 661 replacement coils. V2.0 and v2.1 have been European (and elsewhere?) releases. My basic understanding is they are non-ethanol based releases, but European and American sources of info have slightly different slants on this stuff and aren't necessarily on the same page all the time. Regardless, each version supposedly works the same on whatever machine it's on. The version is the version. The main differences now are the reset and calibration procedures..., at least as far as folks like us are concerned. The v3.0 procedure referenced here in this thread was actually introduced in the v2.1 Euro version of the software where the version also began appearing on the rear handle tag. If there's no version number on the handle, the old reset procedure applies before a recal. For v2.1 and 3.0 there is no separate reset procedure. You just re-calibrate using the new procedure and that's it. The basics of all this are included in the attached PDF which is primarily about solenoid replacement for different carbs if anyone is interested in more reading. LOL Yeah, I know. This has wandered all over the place and has been pretty long winded already. Sorry.
Anyway...
The easiest way to decide if you should jump through the reset procedure for your particular saw is pretty simple. Unless something has changed with the saw to the extent that you would normally grab a screwdriver to make a corrective adjustment if it had a conventional carb, it shouldn't need messed with. If it does, it probably needs to see a dealer with the MDG1 diagnostic rig for further analysis. But if you are going to do a reset for a re-cal for pre-v2.1 software, make sure you don't half-ass it. Do it according to the latest released procedure.
The start position mechanically (not electronically) chokes the carb and activates the micro-switch on the side of the carb which actuates the solenoid (via a small voltage from a diode in the switch) to get some fuel flowing. If for some reason the switch doesn't actuate the solenoid, no fuel will get to the cylinder. On the other hand, the saw can flood fairly easily if the solenoid decides to stick open for whatever reason or the carb is already full of fuel, or even because it was pulled over too rapidly during a cold start attempt.
The claim is that the 'system' can tell what the temperature and altitude are and everything is adjusted accordingly in the 'start' position to deliver the precise fuel 'dosage' for a perfect start every time under any conditions. (Can I get an Ahem?) Not sure where they're hiding the thermometer and altimeter in these things, but they should also include a speedometer to measure how fast they're flying through the air when they get thrown out of a trees and buckets by pissed off operators callin' B.S. on all that crap.
Fact is, the saws aren't quite as smart as Stihl wants everyone to think they are and there are just too many methods spread around by all kinds of sources (including Stihl) explaining how one is supposed to go about training, operating, maintaining, and resetting the particular system on any given saw. One method says use the chain brake when calibrating. Another says not to, and don't use a bar and chain..., but make damned sure ya take the sprocket cover off first! Then there seems to be some unique magic or secret voodoo (or just plain old misinformation) for every software version out there which confuses things even more and has us trying to out think the system..., which is actually a very simple system consisting of the same basic troubleshooting for a no start condition as a conventional system. It's either getting fuel or it's not. It's either getting spark or it's not. Ya check for either one the same way you always have. If it floods, you remedy that the same way you would with any saw. It's pretty safe to assume that a cold start situation in the triangle position that doesn't fire up in a half dozen pulls or so is probably on its way to flooding. At that point there's nothing to lose by trying a few pulls in the run position to see if it'll clear out and pop without pouring more fuel into the situation if it's already flooding. If nothing there, go back to start position and pull till it either starts or you're convinced it's flooded or has a spark problem. Then either dry it out or figure out your no spark issue provided there's fuel in the tank, you have good compression, and aren't overlooking something else really obvious.
As for the software versions and all the chatter there, it's become my understanding that v1.0 and v1.1 has been the only software seeing general release in the states until the recent release of the v3.0 362's and 661's along with the new 661 replacement coils. V2.0 and v2.1 have been European (and elsewhere?) releases. My basic understanding is they are non-ethanol based releases, but European and American sources of info have slightly different slants on this stuff and aren't necessarily on the same page all the time. Regardless, each version supposedly works the same on whatever machine it's on. The version is the version. The main differences now are the reset and calibration procedures..., at least as far as folks like us are concerned. The v3.0 procedure referenced here in this thread was actually introduced in the v2.1 Euro version of the software where the version also began appearing on the rear handle tag. If there's no version number on the handle, the old reset procedure applies before a recal. For v2.1 and 3.0 there is no separate reset procedure. You just re-calibrate using the new procedure and that's it. The basics of all this are included in the attached PDF which is primarily about solenoid replacement for different carbs if anyone is interested in more reading. LOL Yeah, I know. This has wandered all over the place and has been pretty long winded already. Sorry.
Anyway...
The easiest way to decide if you should jump through the reset procedure for your particular saw is pretty simple. Unless something has changed with the saw to the extent that you would normally grab a screwdriver to make a corrective adjustment if it had a conventional carb, it shouldn't need messed with. If it does, it probably needs to see a dealer with the MDG1 diagnostic rig for further analysis. But if you are going to do a reset for a re-cal for pre-v2.1 software, make sure you don't half-ass it. Do it according to the latest released procedure.
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