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MS661 - info on new Carb, Coil & Solenoid released?

DND 9000

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Just as some more background information about the black solenoid valve problems. I`ve found this on an other forum in the U.K., posted by I think a Stihl technician:

Zitat:

"What we've found in some cases is that dirt in the fuel tank has been prematurely wearing solenoids. Sometimes when the saw is hot it wont re-start and a worn solenoid is the cause, because it's not getting the amount of fuel right."

You can find that whole post and the thread here:

https://arbtalk.co.uk/forums/topic/107504-ms201t-solenoid/?do=findComment&comment=1655738
 

FullChisel

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I am starting to think the issues with the first gen solenoids are due to them not having two O-rings to seal them in place.

The first generation ones have a little thin boss that gets folded over to seal them into the bore they fit in right out near the end of the solenoid. The bore is also tapered there to help them seal but upon inspection after removal under a microscope on two of them I am seeing that the hard plastic does not fold over real uniform and also in one spot when taken apart they both have some small scratches on that seal area. It is almost impossible to see it using a 10x eye loupe, but under a scope it is pretty evident.

This would also make them a one time usage as I am pretty certain they will not seal up again, unless using some sort of soft gasket sealer.

An O-ring like what I see on the white ones would sure help seal that end up though!

THANKS for posting the pictures, and part numbers Redbull661.

I wrote up my ongoing search for the "fix" in another thread on this site entitled Stihl 241c stalls while idling.
 

RI Chevy

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I hear you Dustin. Be positive. lol
 

RI Chevy

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I wonder if there is a way to put a couple of prints on the black ones? Retrofit them.
Might make them usable.
 

FullChisel

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Due to the way that little thin rib out on the nose of the old black solenoids gets squashed over in the tapered hole it fits down into when installed the first time I believe the older solenoids are meant to be a one time use.

I did confirm that by using a real good quality stay soft thin gasket sealer ( I used Yamabond 4, made by Yamaha for sealing up motorcycle cases) applied in a real thin line around the very nose of a used solenoid, they will seal up good, start, idle, accelerate, and work a second time.

I applied the sealer with a toothpick, and then let it "skin" over for about two minutes before I installed the solenoid.
 

RI Chevy

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How about an extra o-ring to seal the solenoid up?
 

Wilhelm

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All been said, what is more desirable, a MTron 661 or tunable carb 661 - taking the operator knows to tune the saw half decently?

I am just curious, I don't own a 661 myself.
 

DND 9000

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What about to try to replace the little o-ring on the 0000 120 5110 solenoid valve? I`ve mentioned it in the past already here or on the other side: On the MS 280i solenoid valve (HD-39 carburetor), this sealing ring was availible as a spare part (9645 945 3001 O-ring 7x0.8) Maybe this can be a fix for a leaking valve?
 

DND 9000

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I`m pretty sure that this o ring will fit the 5110 valve. Both valves 5100 (MS 280I), valve 5101 (FR 480 C-F with electric start carb C1Q-S159) and valve 5110 (black m-tronic valve) have all the same dimensions. I have the old 5100 valve and the black m-tronic 5110 valve here. As I know the 5100 valve is N/A anymore and the current 5110 can be used if it is needed for a MS 280I. This could be vary by country/or distributor.
 

RI Chevy

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Do we know the specs or size of the o-ring?
 

tree monkey

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What about to try to replace the little o-ring on the 0000 120 5110 solenoid valve? I`ve mentioned it in the past already here or on the other side: On the MS 280i solenoid valve (HD-39 carburetor), this sealing ring was availible as a spare part (9645 945 3001 O-ring 7x0.8) Maybe this can be a fix for a leaking valve?

Do we know the specs or size of the o-ring?

ummmmm
 
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