Stihl .325 RS and RM chain gro\inding angles?

[AVB]

Hopefully I am not too far out in left field on this one.

Okay I new at this but what are the settings for Oregon chain grinder for the Stihl .325 RS and RM cutters? The Stihl chart is a little confusing since they are not too clear what they are wanting. At least I was able to figure that the chains are RS and RM versions.

It seems they are wanting a 15 degree down tilt but I not sure.

Normally I would just hand sharpen these but these chains are rocked fairly heavily.

 

[huskyboy]

@SOS Ridgerider @huskihl

 

[species8472]

55/25/10 something I would start with.

 

[Lightning Performance]

55/25/10 something I would start with.

should that read 25/55/10? Or is that wrong, idk for sure.

 

[Pincher]

30/60/90

 

[SOS Ridgerider]

My grinder manual says 30 vise angle, 55/60 top plate and 10 down angle for RM.
For RS it says 25 vise angle, 55/60 top plate angle and 10 down angle.

I know Stihl doesn’t use the down angle in their instructions for the chains, so you could leave that at 0 degrees and be just fine. I do follow the angles in the manual, though, and have had pretty good results so far. I usually use the 55 degree top plate angle when I do my chains, instead of the 60 degree.

 

[AVB]

Okay I give it a shot in the morning. I can their witness mark for the vise angle.

From the following you can probably see why I am a little confused. But does explain why the dealer didn't have a 0.030 depth gauge tool on hand. It seems all their chains have 0.025 depth gauge setting other than 0.404 chains.

 

[SOS Ridgerider]

Okay I give it a shot in the morning. I can their witness mark for the vise angle.

From the following you can probably see why I am a little confused. But does explain why the dealer didn't have a 0.030 depth gauge tool on hand. It seems all their chains have 0.025 depth gauge setting other than 0.404 chains.

Which grinder do you have?

 

[AVB]

Oregon 410-120

 

[Philbert]

Ignore the STIHL USG instructions: they don’t make sense with an Oregon grinder.

Follow the instructions in your Oregon manual for similar pitch chains.

Philbert

 

[jetsam]

I've been grinding all Stihl semichisel at 55/30/0 and chisel at 55/30/10 because their angle chart is borderline indecipherable.

If I had to tell you what that .325 line you quoted says in English:

Head tilt angle for teeth and rakers 40°.

Down angle 15°.

Top plate angle 30°.

Picture of a grinding wheel maybe and some numbers? Part numbers? German phone number for the Hofbrau House where the guy who wrote this lives, maybe?

Your round wheel should be profiled to a 2.4mm radius? 2.4mm diameter? Or possibly the propeller takes a 2.4mm nut? Your raker wheel should be profiled to a 30° angle, or possibly you should have a 30° propeller angle for maximum propulsion in heavy seas. Keep your nuts to the port of the stabbard propeller shaft, matey.

FINALLY a drawing that looks like part of a chain or a grinder followed by a number that makes sense here: Raker height should be 0.025" below tooth height.

And RS should be ground at 60° and RM at 70°, though we told you 40° for both back in the first box. Do you even remember the first box? It's been a lot of cryptic little pictograms since the first box. Let's just call it 60. Unless you like 40. Maybe you should grind some teeth at 40 and some at 60, see how you like it. Oh, throw some 70s in there too. We hope you have enjoyed these instructions as much as we have! --Stihl department of documentation.

 

[AVB]

Ignore the STIHL USG instructions: they don’t make sense with an Oregon grinder.

Follow the instructions in your Oregon manual for similar pitch chains.

Philbert

This makes the most sense as I figured they were referring to the crazy looking grinder in the image. Just want to make sure I was on the right foot log. I didn't want to on the one that was already half saw in two.

And Jetsam, yes it was Greek or Russian to me. It is like the Timber Ridge chart I came across where all the info was backwards for the Oregon grinder. I just wish everyone use the same way to spec stuff. Maybe one these days will get my hands on a new Stihl chain to play with.

Anyway thanks fellows I just wanted to get the customer chains back to it was before he used them in the field row. I have seen a lot worst looking chains on my own saws including that toothless one after I cut a railroad spike in two.

 

[Pincher]

Okay I give it a shot in the morning. I can their witness mark for the vise angle.

From the following you can probably see why I am a little confused. But does explain why the dealer didn't have a 0.030 depth gauge tool on hand. It seems all their chains have 0.025 depth gauge setting other than 0.404 chains.

The first box indicates the pitch. The second box is the reference for the A B and C settings. "1" is LH cutter, "2" is RH cutter and "3" is raker. The third box "A" is head tilt angle. Set at +40 for 1,2 and three (LH cutter, RH cutter and raker). "A" does not correspond with an oregon grinder. The fourth box "B" indicates clamp location in reference to the centerline of the wheel. For LH cutters move in to the 15 mark for LH cutter, out 15 for RH cutter and centered for rakers. Fifth box "C" is for clamp angle degrees. LH cutter -30deg, RH cutter +30deg and raker 0deg. The sixth box is the wheel part number. The seventh box shows how to dress the wheel. The eighth box pictures the gauge to set rakers. Below that is the gauge part number and raker measurement. The last box shows side plate angle. For RS (full chisel) chain it should end up 60 degrees. For RM (semi-chisel, micro-chisel) it should end up 75 degrees.

The above only explains the USG settings and like @Philbert said, just follow oregons instructions for your grinder.

For raker gauges, get yourself the progressive style.

I purchased mine from the Husqvarna dealership. They had to order them.

 

[huskyboy]

The first box indicates the pitch. The second box is the reference for the A B and C settings. "1" is LH cutter, "2" is RH cutter and "3" is raker. The third box "A" is head tilt angle. Set at +40 for 1,2 and three (LH cutter, RH cutter and raker). "A" does not correspond with an oregon grinder. The fourth box "B" indicates clamp location in reference to the centerline of the wheel. For LH cutters move in to the 15 mark for LH cutter, out 15 for RH cutter and centered for rakers. Fifth box "C" is for clamp angle degrees. LH cutter -30deg, RH cutter +30deg and raker 0deg. The sixth box is the wheel part number. The seventh box shows how to dress the wheel. The eighth box pictures the gauge to set rakers. Below that is the gauge part number and raker measurement. The last box shows side plate angle. For RS (full chisel) chain it should end up 60 degrees. For RM (semi-chisel, micro-chisel) it should end up 75 degrees.

The above only explains the USG settings and like @Philbert said, just follow oregons instructions for your grinder.

For raker gauges, get yourself the progressive style.
View attachment 286862
I purchased mine from the Husqvarna dealership. They had to order them.

What’s the part number for those raker gauges?

 

[Pincher]

.325 5962851-01
.375 5962851-02
.404 5962851-03
.375 MINI (picco, low profile) 5962851-04

 

[AVB]

Tnx fellows. I ended up grinding the semi chisel at 70 degrees which matched the old profile fairly close. And full chisel matched up with the 60 degree setting. Any less I was hitting the bumper on the DL on the semi chisel chain. Couldn't tell if someone already did the depth gauges but looked to had been already filed. Any way my depth gauge tool said they were at .025".

Now to removing a DL out the last of the three chains. It worn too much for me but the customer insisted on me doing it. He probably will have problems with it. Don't think the ties and presets I got will work but will check anyway after the rain lets up, might just get lucky. If not then it a trip to the dealer.

BTW sorry the miss spelling in the thread title I just didn't catch it. Typing isn't my best ability, still learning it.

 

[jetsam]

For raker gauges, get yourself the progressive style.
View attachment 286862
I purchased mine from the Husqvarna dealership. They had to order them.

I found them on Amazon for a little under $10. Sometimes you can get FOPs on eBay too.

I don't use mine anymore- went to directly measuring angle of attack- but they are a lot better than flat gauges.

 

[Philbert]

From the following you can probably see why I am a little confused.

That is from their USG grinder manual. Dug this up, below, from the inserts packed with most new STIHL chains:


As mentioned many times before, these are recommended angles; what I refer to as starting points.
'A' might typically vary from 25° to 35°, depending on the wood, saw, type of cutting, preferences, etc. (the 20° angles are for square ground / filed chains).
'B' is more commonly 55° (Oregon) to 60° (general).
'C' is 90° (or 0°, depending on your perspective) for all STIHL chains. Oregon recommends 10° for several of theirs.

Philbert

 

[SOS Ridgerider]

Ignore the STIHL USG instructions: they don’t make sense with an Oregon grinder.

Follow the instructions in your Oregon manual for similar pitch chains.

Philbert

This is what I was going to say too, hence my question about which grinder.

 

[species8472]

should that read 25/55/10? Or is that wrong, idk for sure.

I got it around the wrong way.