RM in Oak

[Michpatriot]

Well I tried RM 3\8 chain for the first time that I can remember, had a couple loops hanging around from who knows where for a long time having never gave em a cut. Today up at my parents cabin I decided to flush a ugly oak stump that was freshly cut by a contractor they had hired to build a pole barn, (Ugliest cuts on a stump I've ever seen) so I cleaned the mud off the stump and thought ill give this RM skip a try, its for dirty wood right? On a 32" light bar hung on a fresh 660, this chain was dismal in my opinion. I'm used to RS full comp, or skip occasionally and have only tried factory square ground a couple of times..Guys I have not even been spoiled by a real square chain, RS is my go to, this RM tried to spit the bar out constantly, and sloooow.. Any how got the stump flushed off and my favorite chain back on..won't try that again. Any good explanation on this chain wanting to push the bar out of the cut so hard? My take is that it don't sever the fibers, but rips em? and maybe a standard bar would help compared to a light bar but doggone that chain would make for a long day if I had to use it for the jobs I do. I know I'm gonna catch heat from somebody who loves this chain but I just want to hear why this chain tends to push out like that the whole time.

 

[deye223]

Well I tried RM 3\8 chain for the first time that I can remember, had a couple loops hanging around from who knows where for a long time having never gave em a cut. Today up at my parents cabin I decided to flush a ugly oak stump that was freshly cut by a contractor they had hired to build a pole barn, (Ugliest cuts on a stump I've ever seen) so I cleaned the mud off the stump and thought ill give this RM skip a try, its for dirty wood right? On a 32" light bar hung on a fresh 660, this chain was dismal in my opinion. I'm used to RS full comp, or skip occasionally and have only tried factory square ground a couple of times..Guys I have not even been spoiled by a real square chain, RS is my go to, this RM tried to spit the bar out constantly, and sloooow.. Any how got the stump flushed off and my favorite chain back on..won't try that again. Any good explanation on this chain wanting to push the bar out of the cut so hard? My take is that it don't sever the fibers, but rips em? and maybe a standard bar would help compared to a light bar but doggone that chain would make for a long day if I had to use it for the jobs I do. I know I'm gonna catch heat from somebody who loves this chain but I just want to hear why this chain tends to push out like that the whole time.

No heat for me different chains different techniques it's all I use here in Australia occasionally use RS for cutting up Heads so what brand of semi chisel .
only time I've seen them grab like that is when the rakers are too low or the cutters have to much hook .
Problem is a lot of people who only use RSL put way too much hook on a semi chisel cutter they don't like that at all this video is a semi chisel full skip it's on its 15 cut so I could do with a touch up .

 

[drf256]

Once you get used to RS it’s tough to wait for RM to work. I actually prefer RM for working on dirty wood. The slowness of it is canceled out by not having to sharpen or switch chains.

When a tree went down here last year and took out my pool fence and an area where I store metal stakes, RS dulled almost instantly. I swapped in RM and cut away. At one point a felt the saw rattling and actually cut into a metal stake. The chain still cut wood-it was actually pretty amazing.

The factory RM chain is pretty abysmal though. Lowering the rakers helps.

 

[Wilhelm]

It's the nature of the beast, semi chisel cuts slower than full chisel.
Semi chisel also requires more power to cut than full chisel does, same PH, same bar, same log.

Semi chisel is good for dirty logs, keeps cutting straight even when dull, very slowly though and at the expense of increased wear on bar and PH.
Also, sharpening semi chisel is more forgiving than sharpening full chisel - one can be fairly off on semi chisel and it will still cut (slowly).

I prefer full chisel round filed.
I have a couple semi chisel loops and even though I am not thrilled by their performance they come in handy for bucking skidded dirty firewood logs.

 

[Maintenance Chief]

Semi,micro, and true chipper chain is my go to for dirty stumps.
The half round profile of the cutter will push out hard if the wood is swelling or weight is grabbing the side plate of the chain.
The cutting corner is basically 4xs larger then a square point so you should be throwing french fries out the back of the clutch cover on live wood, but since time is a part of the equation of cutting that big corner needs time to do its job.
I've skipped of rocks ,nails ,and flush cut sandy stumps all day with semi chisel , only requiring a touch up that night .

 

[Mastermind]

Any good explanation on this chain wanting to push the bar out of the cut so hard?

Did you use some wedges Joel?

 

[Michpatriot]

I should have just used the 461 I just got from you Randy with the 25" bar lol but i wanted to break in this 660 I used a couple wood shards in the cut but wedges would have been better..the bar was getting pushed almost as soon as the bar was buried though, didn't even get a 1/3 way through and it was buckin..

 

[Michpatriot]

You know what..maybe I did touch up this chain I couldn't tell between this and another one but maybe it does have too much hook.