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Stihl 2 in 1 Sharpening tool.

firewoodhuntingman

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I am thinking the OP might have worked at a Stihl dealer but if people can buy the same brand of the 2&1 at a lower price i would go for it.

The only thing i would want is that the files be of quality, i read of many files that don't last long, i sure am not a file expert and no one should follow my poor sharpening actions.

Since i was going to try doing my sharpening in the woods now, the 2&1 sounded like it was made for someone like me a really poor chain sharpener at my best attempts.
 

huskihl

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I am thinking the OP might have worked at a Stihl dealer but if people can buy the same brand of the 2&1 at a lower price i would go for it.

The only thing i would want is that the files be of quality, i read of many files that don't last long, i sure am not a file expert and no one should follow my poor sharpening actions.

Since i was going to try doing my sharpening in the woods now, the 2&1 sounded like it was made for someone like me a really poor chain sharpener at my best attempts.
He didn’t work at a dealership. From what I read it sounded like he just started cutting later on in life. And he felt that everything in the world had to be better if it said Stihl on it.
I see it like this, if you like orange, buy that one. If you like blue and want to save a few bucks, buy that one. From what I’ve read they do a decent job sharpening chain for most people. At the very least, they are a good teaching aid for when you need to file freehand
 

firewoodhuntingman

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If he was going to get a gofundme going i wish he was still around and get one for me, i bid on a large clearing land project ,but to get it i need a small or maybe a little larger skidder with a winch and a few other items, i also need to show i have insurance and all the Insh. providers i have called ask if i am going to be running a chainsaw when i tell yes some saw running they say we don't want to cover you unless you agree to a few added riders and paying a lot more then just some small home owner working for their selves.
 

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Hard to tell from the picture if they both have the exact same type files.

The files in the orange one say "STIHL MADE IN GERMANY" and the blue ones have a little tiny Pferd (cat?) whatever their logo is, and also "MADE IN GERMANY".

They are both good files and I doubt Stihl makes files. But they did go to the trouble of stamping Stihl on there.
 

firewoodhuntingman

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The files in the orange one say "STIHL MADE IN GERMANY" and the blue ones have a little tiny Pferd (cat?) whatever their logo is, and also "MADE IN GERMANY".

They are both good files and I doubt Stihl makes files. But they did go to the trouble of stamping Stihl on there.

Thanks for the information i feel both are quality products, as everyone using them have said they do a good job on their chains.
 

firewoodhuntingman

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I did not want to go with Amazon for them could not find a Blue one local, so just went to a Stihl dealer and picked up their orange 2&1, going to try it out soon.
I mostly want to know if the Stihl files will hold up if not i will order Perf files.
 

Wood Chopper

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I haven't used my 2n1 files in a while. Many have said that they may lower the rakers too much if used repeatedly and they take the flat-file out as to not hit the rakers. Don't the rails that ride on the tooth behind and in front dictate the depth of the rakers?
 

firewoodhuntingman

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I haven't used my 2n1 files in a while. Many have said that they may lower the rakers too much if used repeatedly and they take the flat-file out as to not hit the rakers. Don't the rails that ride on the tooth behind and in front dictate the depth of the rakers?

That's a good point and i will start out using the raker flat file, and check the height of the rakers if they don't need filing again i will remove the flat file till it's really needed.

In the past i have just used my chains till dull in the woods, maybe slap on another chain then take chains to a shop who do machine sharping.

And i still feel you can just do the hand filing maybe five times, before needing all the cutters really taken to the same height this is where a machine sharpen will get the chain back where it needs to be.
 

huskihl

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I haven't used my 2n1 files in a while. Many have said that they may lower the rakers too much if used repeatedly and they take the flat-file out as to not hit the rakers. Don't the rails that ride on the tooth behind and in front dictate the depth of the rakers?
I think most guys that say that are pushing down too hard, bending the rails a little bit as they file. I’ve seen it mentioned that once they stop doing that, the problems went away
 
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firewoodhuntingman

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That's a good point and i will start out using the raker flat file, and check the height of the rakers if they don't need filing again i will remove the flat file till it's really needed.

In the past i have just used my chains till dull in the woods, maybe slap on another chain then take chains to a shop who do machine sharping.

And i still feel you can just do the hand filing maybe five times, before needing all the cutters really taken to the same height this is where a machine sharpen will get the chain back where it needs to be.

I am going to try not pushing down hard the file is fairly harsh, i ran a quick test here at home using my vice to hold saw, i left out the raker file so i could just concentrate on filing the cutters everything went quickly and i feel worked well.
Thanking everyone in the forum who gave me help.
 

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Does this tool lower depth gauges more as teeth get shorter?
For instance 25 thou when new verses deeper when teeth are shorter.
Friend of mine likes his. I've not used one.
 

Wood Chopper

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I think most guys that say that are pushing down too hard, bending the rails a little bit as they file. I’ve seen it mentioned that once they stop doing that, the problems went away

Roger that. Makes sense.


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Does this tool lower depth gauges more as teeth get shorter?
For instance 25 thou when new verses deeper when teeth are shorter.
Friend of mine likes his. I've not used one.

It lowers them to about. 025 below the average height of the tooth you are hitting and the next tooth on the opposite side (it has a steel rail that rides over the next tooth to set the height).

I find that it does a good job on a new chain but sets them nowhere near deep enough on a chain with little tooth left (just like a .025 raker gauge would).

If you flip it over and use it upside down you could grind that raker down to the strap because the guide rail isn't on the next tooth.

Now that I have started grinding chains I may retire my 2n1s. I can touch up chains in the field with a round file. I'm not happy with its idea of proper raker adjustment, so it's really just a fancy round file holder at that point.
 
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