HELP! Stihl 076 AV Super- Bogs and Dies When Hot

[lehman live edge slab]

The newest 076 ipl I have showing the different ignitions used on bottom

 

[lehman live edge slab]

 

[lehman live edge slab]

The latest ipl of the 076, shows the two different carbs and the extra spacer and different air filter surrounds because the super ran an extra 1/2” spacer and walbro carb vs the tillotson of the 075 and standard 076

 

[chilipeppermaniac]

You could always test the ignition and retrofit it with a module

 

[lehman live edge slab]

You could always test the ignition and retrofit it with a module

I’m sure one out of a ts 760 would work also they are limited rpm but still same set up

 

[BuffaloBill]

Have you found a solution for your lack of spark? I fixed up an 076 Super a few years ago. Its main problem was no spark. The coil seemed to test ok so began searching for a replacement trigger plate. Mine has the doughnut-shaped one. I did find an NOS one on eBay. It’s run fine since replacing that and restoring the saw.

I x-rayed the failed doughnut at work, thinking I would attempt to draw out the circuit someday from the x-ray pics, and dig into the potting compound to replace the failed components. I assume this one uses an SCR as the switching component. Below find pics of said trigger module, and the saw.

 

[Steck]

Hey guys I’m back!!! After letting this thing cool for 18 months, I’ve decided to get back at it. I was going to try replacing the coil. I’ve got it all apart. The ignition switch wire and another go deeper into the case. My question is, which way does the nut for the flywheel? Both wires go down below it I’m guessing to the trigger/module. Are there any special considerations in taking the flywheel off? I did reference mark it to the cylinder in case it needs to be clocked just right. Anyone with parts, we may need to talk. I’d love to find OEM brand new but I realize that may not be possible.

 

[Steck]

Here’s some photos for reference.

 

[lehman live edge slab]

Hey guys I’m back!!! After letting this thing cool for 18 months, I’ve decided to get back at it. I was going to try replacing the coil. I’ve got it all apart. The ignition switch wire and another go deeper into the case. My question is, which way does the nut for the flywheel? Both wires go down below it I’m guessing to the trigger/module. Are there any special considerations in taking the flywheel off? I did reference mark it to the cylinder in case it needs to be clocked just right. Anyone with parts, we may need to talk. I’d love to find OEM brand new but I realize that may not be possible.

It’s a standard thread nut on flywheel, should be 13mm if I remember correctly. You will need the double ended male flywheel puller off eBay to pull it off correctly so it doesn’t get messed up. Also the flywheel is keyed so no issues with lining back up. Some saws had external trigger and others were under flywheel. My 075 has an external trigger box up by wrap handle.

 

[lehman live edge slab]

This is what the tigger looks like for some of them, then you have the coil part also that is needed also to complete it. I have the ipls at home so you can see the parts break downs but cant post till later.

 

[Steck]

Thanks! I think you sent me all the diagrams previously in this post. I just found a brand new in box Stihl OEM coil on good ole eBay. I’m embarrassed to say how much I paid for it but I love this saw. Hopefully that’s the issue. If not I’ll replace the trigger as well. Just want it up and running.

 

[Steck]

Also I now see why it’s threaded. It’s pressed and those are for the puller you mentioned. Damn it!!!! Guess I’m going back on eBay for the puller. Do you think the mound of dust around the carb and clean intake manifold indicates the carb was seeping a bit? I have a rebuild kit for the original walbro that was on it. I wasn’t going to mess with it because the thing ran perfect before this, but maybe now is the time for that as well

 

[EFSM]

Have you concluded what the smoke was from? Was the flywheel contacting the coil at all (due to crankshaft movement )? I’d also check the fuel cap, if it is a vented cap. I already had a cap that had a rusted-shut vent hole (the cap is plastic with a metal set screw or pin in it). That could be a problem on yours causing the bogging.

 

[Steck]

Have you concluded what the smoke was from? Was the flywheel contacting the coil at all (due to crankshaft movement )? I’d also check the fuel cap, if it is a vented cap. I already had a cap that had a rusted-shut vent hole (the cap is plastic with a metal set screw or pin in it). That could be a problem on yours causing the bogging.

Coil and flywheel were secure. Flywheel/crank turn smoothly with no play. Fuel cap was replaced. Smoke was definitely coming from the flywheel cover but I don’t 100% know the source. The coil and wiring does not look burnt or melted. I will know more when I receive the puller and can get the flywheel and ignition assembly broken down. Compression is the usual bear to pull the string but I have not tested it with the gauge. It certainly feels strong like these saws normally do. Everything should be here in a few days. Regardless, I’m replacing the coil for the “good for another 45 years” effect. Once the flywheel is off, I’m hoping to find something obviously wrong. Something electronic did not like working any longer at operating temp. That I’m fairly certain of.

 

[Steck]

Since this saw runs the same style pump as an 041 I’d check the o-rings on the pump. They were known to go then the saw could burn bar oil because it could suck it through the pump housing in the case.

Going back to this, I did replace the oil pump assembly with, I’d my memory serves me correctly, a brand new in box unit. The O rings may have been reused. Dumb on my part yes. This was a few years ago now, so I can’t really remember. Though I do have a separate thread on that so that might tell the story. It was not oiling at all, and now it oils like crazy. The oil pump shaft gears were mashed flat. Weird but that’s the beauty of previous ownership.

 

[Steck]

Have you found a solution for your lack of spark? I fixed up an 076 Super a few years ago. Its main problem was no spark. The coil seemed to test ok so began searching for a replacement trigger plate. Mine has the doughnut-shaped one. I did find an NOS one on eBay. It’s run fine since replacing that and restoring the saw.

I x-rayed the failed doughnut at work, thinking I would attempt to draw out the circuit someday from the x-ray pics, and dig into the potting compound to replace the failed components. I assume this one uses an SCR as the switching component. Below find pics of said trigger module, and the saw.

Sorry it’s been so long since I came back to this. This is really great information. I’m going to start looking for one. You don’t happen to have that part # handy do you? That’s a great looking saw. Now that my tank is off I might just pull the muffler cover and clutch cover, and respray all 3. The main case looks great. Might do the orange too. The only orange part is that is messed up is the handle surround. Someone must have sprayed carb cleaner and it’s got some streaks where a liquid obviously got on it and messed the paint up. Guess I’d have to do all three to match.

 

[Steck]

Have you found a solution for your lack of spark? I fixed up an 076 Super a few years ago. Its main problem was no spark. The coil seemed to test ok so began searching for a replacement trigger plate. Mine has the doughnut-shaped one. I did find an NOS one on eBay. It’s run fine since replacing that and restoring the saw.

I x-rayed the failed doughnut at work, thinking I would attempt to draw out the circuit someday from the x-ray pics, and dig into the potting compound to replace the failed components. I assume this one uses an SCR as the switching component. Below find pics of said trigger module, and the saw.

Disregard my question. Part # is clearly displayed in the photos. Thank you.

 

[Steck]

Lehman, the IPL shows the donut style trigger attached to the coil in the diagram. #22 in diagram, listed PN 1114 400 1000. Showing that as 1111 400 1000 as the Stihl number when I searched the numbers off Buffalo bills post. Found an OEM Stihl brand new. Only one out there. Think I should grab it? It’s going to be a few days until I get my puller. I think I’d rather spend the $88 and get it if it’s even possible it’s part of the problem.

 

[lehman live edge slab]

Lehman, the IPL shows the donut style trigger attached to the coil in the diagram. #22 in diagram, listed PN 1114 400 1000. Showing that as 1111 400 1000 as the Stihl number when I searched the numbers off Buffalo bills post. Found an OEM Stihl brand new. Only one out there. Think I should grab it? It’s going to be a few days until I get my puller. I think I’d rather spend the $88 and get it if it’s even possible it’s part of the problem.

Probably wouldn’t hurt but I’m still leaning towards coil heating up, I think if the trigger gos it’s usually done but saws older and it may be next anyway. They were kinda common to go, not sure but if the external trigger like on my 075 would work but I’m kinda guessing it would. They are in that 80-100$ range also though.