Stihl 026 (non-pro model) adjustable oiler upgrade question.

[Oddrodtodd]

My question is: Do you have to change any other parts when upgrading the original plastic oiler with a metal, adjustable oiler. My saw is a late 1996 non-pro model but has the correct case with the adjustment relief on the bottom. I've been looking at the Hyway OP000002 unit. I have had good luck so far with this Taiwanese company but am open to suggestions on any good quality kit or other suggestions. My saw is a 1996 non-pro unit.
Thanks!

 

[hacskaroly]

Do you have to change any other parts when upgrading the original plastic oiler with a metal, adjustable oiler.

If the prospective oiler matches up (screw holes, worm gear) and there is already an access hole in the case to get to the adjustment screw, you should not need any other parts. The only difference between what you have and the Hyway is the adjustable screw on the Hyway. For the price I would give it a shot!

 

[Oddrodtodd]

If the prospective oiler matches up (screw holes, worm gear) and there is already an access hole in the case to get to the adjustment screw, you should not need any other parts. The only difference between what you have and the Hyway is the adjustable screw on the Hyway. For the price I would give it a shot!

It looks like I will also need the drive gear with the tang and the deeper clutch bell with the notch in it to drive the pump...

 

[Canadian farm boy]

There is also a sleeve that slides on the crank for the adjustable oiler.

 

[drf256]

You will need:

Crank washer AND sleeve
Pump
Worm Gear
Deeper Clutch Drum with the worm gear notch

A step backwards IMHO. The crank driven oiler is only running at 1/4 speed when the saw is idling, and people don’t tend to let saws idle for very long periods of time without turning them off. Even if you choose to, they don’t use much oil.

I have an entire oem adjustable pump setup here that I have never swapped into a saw for good reason. Really no need for it. You’re trading oem quality and R&D for an AM gamble.

In addition, its quite easy to break off the oiler tube barb on the plastic pump and not be able to reuse it.

 

[Oddrodtodd]

You will need:

Crank washer AND sleeve
Pump
Worm Gear
Deeper Clutch Drum with the worm gear notch

A step backwards IMHO. The crank driven oiler is only running at 1/4 speed when the saw is idling, and people don’t tend to let saws idle for very long periods of time without turning them off. Even if you choose to, they don’t use much oil.

I have an entire oem adjustable pump setup here that I have never swapped into a saw for good reason. Really no need for it. You’re trading oem quality and R&D for an AM gamble.

In addition, its quite easy to break off the oiler tube barb on the plastic pump and not be able to reuse it.

Something to consider. I wish I'd waited a bit longer before ordering the kit... If I decide to move forward on the adjustable oiler will I be able to find the washer and sleeve online? Or will I have to order them from Stihl (my local Ace Hardware is a Stihl dealer)?
Thanks for the heads up though. The illustrated parts list I downloaded has the Stihl part #s clearly displayed if I had looked closer I would have known this!

 

[Oddrodtodd]

Update:
I found both the sleeve and washer on Bailey's website: https://www.baileysonline.com/
Stihl part numbers:
Sleeve - 0000 993 0508
Washer - 0000 958 1234
I've given this a lot of thought since reading drf256's reply. Although I have these parts coming to complete the installation, I'm going to put it on the back burner for now. Concentrate on the 026 rebuild and see how it oils it's new 20" bar and full chisel chain. With the Hyway and Caber big-bore cylinder kit, mild porting and Egan Straight Shot exhaust, Dad's old saw should be back in the game...

Todd