Sometimes you Lose...

[kneedeepinsaws]

Jus thinking out loud and I don’t know *s-word from shin o la on sleeving… but is it possible to get a thicker walled sleeve that will hold up to being pressed on better? Then after it’s all set throw it on the lathe and mill out the inside to your proper dimension?

 

[Red97]

Jus thinking out loud and I don’t know *s-word from shin o la on sleeving… but is it possible to get a thicker walled sleeve that will hold up to being pressed on better? Then after it’s all set throw it on the lathe and mill out the inside to your proper dimension?

That is possible. And what I did here within reason. I still had .060" to bore out till final size.

I sent the first sleeve a bit too fast and it went crooked. Tried tapping it straight but it knocked a chip out. After that I shattered the rest, cause it was junk anyway.

 

[kneedeepinsaws]

That is possible. And what I did here within reason. I still had .060" to bore out till final size.

I sent the first sleeve a bit too fast and it went crooked. Tried tapping it straight but it knocked a chip out. After that I shattered the rest, cause it was junk anyway.

could you taper the sleeve or jug in some way to help guide it into place?
Tapering the first third of the jug for example would help guide it enough that it is straight during the heavy loading process. I assume these are steel sleeves? Again a lot I don’t know here but if they are steel I’m sure that the base could easily contain the forces of the piston during running even tho there is no aluminum wall support behind it for the first 1/3rd?

 

[Ketchup]

Way cool stuff....way way cool.

x2!

 

[Red97]

could you taper the sleeve or jug in some way to help guide it into place?
Tapering the first third of the jug for example would help guide it enough that it is straight during the heavy loading process. I assume these are steel sleeves? Again a lot I don’t know here but if they are steel I’m sure that the base could easily contain the forces of the piston during running even tho there is no aluminum wall support behind it for the first 1/3rd?

Sleeve is cast iron.

You need full contact the entire area to get as much heat transfer as possible.

Any gaps between the sleeve and cylinder wall will cause hot spots and make the sleeve do all sorts of funny things.

Issue with the first one was too much clearance. Had enough room to really jamb it in crooked. Then it stuck crooked.

If I would have slowed down and lightly wiggled it would have dropped into place with lots of room to spare.

 

[Woodpecker]

If I would have slowed down and lightly wiggled it would have dropped into place with lots of room to spare.

title of your next sex tape?

 

[Kiwioilboiler]

Sleeve is cast iron.

You need full contact the entire area to get as much heat transfer as possible.

Any gaps between the sleeve and cylinder wall will cause hot spots and make the sleeve do all sorts of funny things.

Issue with the first one was too much clearance. Had enough room to really jamb it in crooked. Then it stuck crooked.

If I would have slowed down and lightly wiggled it would have dropped into place with lots of room to spare.

Total noob question Joe. Do you use a mandrel inside the sleeve to retain its shape as you fit it, or is it thick enough to hold its shape?

 

[Red97]

Total noob question Joe. Do you use a mandrel inside the sleeve to retain its shape as you fit it, or is it thick enough to hold its shape?

It will conform to the bore somewhat. But I leave plenty of stock to bore and hone afterwards. That way it can be/stay true.

 

[mrxlh]

Joe, skip the heat and use liquid nitrogen. You can get smaller dip tube bottles from your welding supply store. We use liquid nitrogen exclusively in interference fit bushings, no heat ever. Get it at least .006” undersized before you drop it in, put it back in the nitrogen until it is. Metal 5 gallon bucket with a plywood lid is what we use. You can get the same cooling with methanol and dry ice, but that has gotten expensive.

 

[Nutball]

Is there any chance that an aluminum liner could be used? Then you can get it plated first, or would the liner compress too much after installation? Doesn't the ms151t use an extra thick aluminum liner?

 

[thompsoncustom]

Sleeve is cast iron.

You need full contact the entire area to get as much heat transfer as possible.

Any gaps between the sleeve and cylinder wall will cause hot spots and make the sleeve do all sorts of funny things.

Issue with the first one was too much clearance. Had enough room to really jamb it in crooked. Then it stuck crooked.

If I would have slowed down and lightly wiggled it would have dropped into place with lots of room to spare.

If your pressing it in would a silver base heat sink compound work as lube? anything left over would fill in the gaps and help with heat transfer.

 

[Al Smith]

When I did the Mac 125 years ago I screwed up the first attempt .Made the OD of the sleeve for too tight of a fit .I think the rule of thumb is 1 thou over for every inch of OD on a heat shrink fit .I used grade 50 soft gray cast iron same as Harley D for flat head Harleys . I suppose you could use nodular iron or 4140 steel but neither one finishs as smooth as gray cast .
I punched the block out 70 thou thus making the wall thickness at around 35 thou and final honed it with a Lisle precision hone to around 4-4.5 thou piston fit .
A sleeve is just an option rather than over bore and replating .You could try to find something close from like L A Sleeve or carve one out of stock .Burt Munro of Indian MC fame used cast iron sewer pipe and he set a worlds record on the salt at Bonneville .

 

[Al Smith]

I think people are thinking too deeply on this heat transfer business .Part of the heat of combustion is transfered to the piston crown and is carried away by the transfer ..The bulk of it should be in the upper cylinder next to the head deck and that portion is in the fan blast from the flywheel . A highly restrictive exhaust and a lean run are what cook most of them .It's using gasoline not pure nitro like a dragster that often burns the engine up in a quater mile .