High Quality Chainsaw Bars Husqvarna Toys

Show off your muffler mods

Dwight_Spaulding

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Is there any way (no matter how ugly) to affix a deflector without a >$100 welding setup? I hear of things like brazing, silver-solder, etc and can't help but wonder if for maybe $50 I could actually affix a deflector w/o using lil nuts&bolts, lol? Thanks :) I have all types of handheld propane & butane torches already, if any type of product can be made to work with that...already have many deflectors but always just drill holes, in reading this thread I'm suspecting I don't need a true welding setup to do an ugly deflector mounting (hoping :D)
Fwiw, I've started using pop rivets. Worked well on the two echo mufflers I tried so far.

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Woodslasher

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If you can open up the inlet baffle it seems to help too.

Edit: Do you think there would be interest in a 191/2/3 build-off? Easy saws to work on and there are mountains of dead ones…
I'll have to revisit the inner baffle. I watched the 192T mod videos @VinceGU05 and was referring to those. I'm curious to see how my saw with a muff mod and a slight timing advance will compare to a friend's stock one. I'm not sure about "mountains of dead ones", the shops near me told me "Good luck" when I said I was looking for a builder top handle, if I hadn't seen Steve's post I probably wouldn't have one.
 

Benwa

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I'll have to revisit the inner baffle. I watched the 192T mod videos @VinceGU05 and was referring to those. I'm curious to see how my saw with a muff mod and a slight timing advance will compare to a friend's stock one. I'm not sure about "mountains of dead ones", the shops near me told me "Good luck" when I said I was looking for a builder top handle, if I hadn't seen Steve's post I probably wouldn't have one.
Night and day difference with those two simple mods. The 192t is not even the same saw before and after. You'll love it! Mine lives with a 16" bar & has no problem with it after those mods.
Screenshot_20220506-064640_YouTube.jpg Screenshot_20220506-064711_YouTube.jpg
I think opening up the inner baffle makes a noticeable difference. I've noticed gains with as little as this, but I usually open up the slots to incorporate the lower holes too.
Everything is subjective of course so take it for what it is, but here was my best attempt to show the differences with those mods.
Most the gains in these saws come from the muffler mod and timing advance. Port work is always fun and shows gains, but for the time invested, I just stick to the muff mod & timing on these now.
 
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Ketchup

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I had two 550s to mod and I'm way behind. I thought just folding back the deflector, ope ing everything, and then welding it back would be fast.
EC560743-58EE-47D6-8CE9-2167CAC66719.jpeg
image.jpg
It was fast. But it looks really crude. I left it on the rusty old MK1.
D3ABDC71-2FA4-4D1C-980C-C3379A857F68.jpeg
The MK2 got a wide deflector with nut-certs and heat paint.
FCCC880E-7E71-48E5-B9E1-915044965680.jpeg
More betterer.
 

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huskyboy

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I had two 550s to mod and I'm way behind. I thought just folding back the deflector, ope ing everything, and then welding it back would be fast.
View attachment 340920
View attachment 340921
It was fast. But it looks really crude. I left it on the rusty old MK1.
View attachment 340918
The MK2 got a wide deflector with nut-certs and heat paint.
View attachment 340917
More betterer.
Nutserts look neat and clean but I find don’t hold up long term on the thin husky mufflers. They work for a few months before the muffler cracks around the nutserts. Brazing or weld I find to be more permanent. Just my experiences.
 

Ketchup

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Nutserts look neat and clean but I find don’t hold up long term on the thin husky mufflers. They work for a few months before the muffler cracks around the nutserts. Brazing or weld I find to be more permanent. Just my experiences.

I probably should weld it but I've burned through several cans and I'm not totally happy with my thin welds. Messy.

I've had success with the nut-certs in the past, but I guess we'll see. I put a layer of muffler gasket down between the can and the deflector. I do it to make sure exhaust doesn't come out the seam, but it might help with vibration as well. As long as the guy doesn't lose the deflector I can always weld it on if the Nut-certs fail.
 

Mastermind

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Nutserts look neat and clean but I find don’t hold up long term on the thin husky mufflers. They work for a few months before the muffler cracks around the nutserts. Brazing or weld I find to be more permanent. Just my experiences.

The stainless steel rivet nuts I've been using for a decade seem to stay put. Can't say I've used them on any Husky except the 592 though.
 

srcarr52

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I probably should weld it but I've burned through several cans and I'm not totally happy with my thin welds. Messy.

I've had success with the nut-certs in the past, but I guess we'll see. I put a layer of muffler gasket down between the can and the deflector. I do it to make sure exhaust doesn't come out the seam, but it might help with vibration as well. As long as the guy doesn't lose the deflector I can always weld it on if the Nut-certs fail.

I had to back purge the 592 mufflers to make acceptable welds. Stainless can be really finicky.
 

whitesnake

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Any luck with quality pop rivets? Or loosen up over time?
 

whitesnake

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Yeah I figured as much. Def not aluminum. But steel or stainless?
 
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