SHOW ME YOUR AXES

[ajschainsaws]

Are there any advantages or disadvantages of leaving about 1/4" of wood sticking out of the top of the head when re-handling? Or is it better to cut if off flush?

I don’t know about leaving that 1/4” of wood ive tried before on a 4 1/2lb and when I went put the two round metal wedges in , when I banged them home the wood above the axe head seem too bulge outwards and didn’t look tidy
Also at least half of the metal wedge was above the axehead
I personally like the look of the flush with the head look

 

[RI Chevy]

I prefer the flush look as well. But Gransfors Bruk and a few others like to leave that 1/4" wood sticking out. Thanks.
As always, awesome jobs on these. [emoji106]

 

[ajschainsaws]

I prefer the flush look as well. But Gransfors Bruk and a few others like to leave that 1/4" wood sticking out. Thanks.
As always, awesome jobs on these. [emoji106]

Thanks I’ve noticed that most of the new German axes I get in are fitted flush

 

[XP_Slinger]

I think the protruding wood on the top of the ax provides yet another swell that prevents the ax from loosening. I like the look, old school.

 

[ajschainsaws]

Yes true I hadn’t thought much about that side of it

 

[XP_Slinger]

So I believe @CR888 suggested a while back that I could step up my game with these axes by polishing them. I think I was too focused on making handles to really appreciate the suggestion and I also didn’t like the thought of potentially damaging the makers mark on an antique ax. Well I’m here to tell ya what you probably already know...polished axes look awesome. Especially the old ones, man that’s a lot of chrome. While I don’t have the equipment to get every little scratch and pit out of them, I got a nice finish on this one through progressive grit sanding by hand. Started at 150 and ended at 2,000 grit, I’m going to get even finer sand paper to really put a mirror finish on it. The mothers polishing compound did well in finishing it but there are still very fine sanding lines visible. I’ve got about 3 hours into just this side of the ax, the other side hasn’t even been started.

 

[ajschainsaws]

What metal wedges does everyone use when you think a head needs it I use these below

 

[ajschainsaws]

So I believe @CR888 suggested a while back that I could step up my game with these axes by polishing them. I think I was too focused on making handles to really appreciate the suggestion and I also didn’t like the thought of potentially damaging the makers mark on an antique ax. Well I’m here to tell ya what you probably already know...polished axes look awesome. Especially the old ones, man that’s a lot of chrome. While I don’t have the equipment to get every little scratch and pit out of them, I got a nice finish on this one through progressive grit sanding by hand. Started at 150 and ended at 2,000 grit, I’m going to get even finer sand paper to really put a mirror finish on it. The mothers polishing compound did well in finishing it but there are still very fine sanding lines visible. I’ve got about 3 hours into just this side of the ax, the other side hasn’t even been started.
View attachment 104836 View attachment 104837

That does look fantastic a show stopper

 

[XP_Slinger]

Here’s the before polishing finish. The middle ax.

 

[XP_Slinger]

What metal wedges does everyone use when you think a head needs it I use these below

View attachment 104838

Which of those do you prefer? I’ve heard from a few members here that the round ones are great.

 

[Wilhelm]

I think the protruding wood on the top of the ax provides yet another swell that prevents the ax from loosening. I like the look, old school.

That's what I aim for when I seat an ax head.

Big ax


Small ax

 

[XP_Slinger]

That's what I aim for when I seat an ax head.

Big ax
View attachment 104842

Small ax
View attachment 104843

Yup that sucker ain’t going anywhere. Why do you use metal wedges? Did you have issues with your axes loosening with wooden ones? Just curious, thanks.

 

[ajschainsaws]

Which of those do you prefer? I’ve heard from a few members here that the round ones are great.

I like the round ones they go in nice and tight and look good
The flat ones look good and fit tight when you put a pair in on an angle

 

[XP_Slinger]

I like the round ones they go in nice and tight and look good
The flat ones look good and fit tight when you put a pair in on an angle

I’d hate to have to pull one of those round ones out. I bet they’re all but figuratively welded once they’re driven in.

 

[ajschainsaws]

I’d hate to have to pull one of those round ones out. I bet they’re all but figuratively welded once they’re driven in.

Yes they are tough you gotta drill through them and put a screwdriver in if you wanna save the handle or drill around them and put your mole grips on them and yank em out like a old fashioned dentist

 

[Wilhelm]

Yup that sucker ain’t going anywhere. Why do you use metal wedges? Did you have issues with your axes loosening with wooden ones? Just curious, thanks.

Yes, the wooden wedges would keep popping out.

Also, the steel wedge can be driven in much deeper into the handle than a wooden wedge.

I drive the steel wedge in till the handle start ringing at which point the handle mushrooms like show in those pictures.

 

[RI Chevy]

Maybe try the wooden wedge with some strong wood glue? Might seal that top up a bit better.
With all the woodworking that I have done, I literally never had two pieces of wood break at the glued joint. So glue might help seal up the splits and cracks and get you some longevity at the top.

 

[Wilhelm]

Maybe try the wooden wedge with some strong wood glue? Might seal that top up a bit better.
With all the woodworking that I have done, I literally never had two pieces of wood break at the glued joint. So glue might help seal up the splits and cracks and get you some longevity at the top.

Tried that, didn't help much.
The impact force would make any glue give in and the wedge would pop out while splitting the next knotty round.

Steel wedge and a nail to additionally secure it - works perfectly fine.
I tried securing a wooden wedge with a nail, that didn't work either as the wedge would just split open and still go flying.

I've split some oak knots today, they all gave in eventually.
Granted some knots needed to be persuaded more intensive than others, but the result was the same.

I'm OK with a steel wedge, it has proven to me to be more durable and safer on the long run.

 

[XP_Slinger]

Tried that, didn't help much.
The impact force would make any glue give in and the wedge would pop out while splitting the next knotty round.

Steel wedge and a nail to additionally secure it - works perfectly fine.
I tried securing a wooden wedge with a nail, that didn't work either as the wedge would just split open and still go flying.

I've split some oak knots today, they all gave in eventually.
Granted some knots needed to be persuaded more intensive than others, but the result was the same.

I'm OK with a steel wedge, it has proven to me to be more durable and safer on the long run.

Thanks for the perspective, I figured you had some issues but didn’t want to ASSume. We all know what that does...lol

 

[RI Chevy]

Tried that, didn't help much.
The impact force would make any glue give in and the wedge would pop out while splitting the next knotty round.

Steel wedge and a nail to additionally secure it - works perfectly fine.
I tried securing a wooden wedge with a nail, that didn't work either as the wedge would just split open and still go flying.

I've split some oak knots today, they all gave in eventually.
Granted some knots needed to be persuaded more intensive than others, but the result was the same.

I'm OK with a steel wedge, it has proven to me to be more durable and safer on the long run.

Just curious what glue you used? I haven't seen that happen with any of the handles here in the states.