SHOW ME YOUR AXES

[Ronaldo]

I’d like to buy the HB if you want to sell

Planning to hang a 28" straight handle and make it my main felling/wedge axe. Gotta source a handle...

 

[davidwyby]

Planning to hang a 28" straight handle and make it my main felling/wedge axe. Gotta source a handle...

Whiskey River or west coast saw or East coast lumberjack.

I might have a 30-32” Tennessee hickory…they are good if you find one with good grain and don’t mind re shaping a little. $15 from Madsen’s.

House handle, or beaver tooth (very slow shipping) I’d pick grade A

 

[FTG-05]

My Council Tool Jersey Axe I ordered a couple weeks ago:



Original OEM edge:



After a couple minutes with my 2x72" grinder with 120 belt at a very low speed; it's now razor sharp!



I also bought a CT Boy's Axe from a local vendor, Wiseman Trading Company, Athens, AL. No pics yet.

Both axes are soaking in Boiled Linseed Oil as we speak.

 

[Junk Meister]

I watched a U-T video that started out felling a hickory (or ash?) All said and done his grain was "Bakertz to All of What I have always believed about grain. Comments were made but nobody came out and said The grain works with the axe head and if you are splitting or felling Might specialize/dictate the grain layout. I will try to find that video just to stir up some debates. one part of the comment pertained to how the handle would ?FLEX? with the axe head and flick/eject the chip out of the notch. Your hand and wrists feel better at the end of day as well. IIRC the handle was green. Another comment was that one could distinguish the different handles by the sound of the chopping.
That was easy... Mr. Chickadee From tree to handle. the comments are worth the read.

 

[Ronaldo]

I have a 3.5 lbs. Plumb ,along with the Hults Bruk,that needs a handle so I ordered two from House Handle Co. In Missouri. They a look good, good grain orientation, no runout and no lacquer. Not sure how soon I'll get on it but I have what I need now.

 

[Swanman62]

I put a new handle in my friend’s plumb Michigan pattern. House handle, boiled linseed oil 7 coats. I touched up the parts of the head that I had to flap disk smooth with gun blue. It took a really nice edge. It is pictured with the first axe that I rehandled 20 plus years ago. It is a Marshall wells zenith. Both axes were found without handles in the sheds at family properties.

 

[Swanman62]

I also rehabbed 7 pulaskis and a double bit for the wilderness trail crew that I work with. They don’t get as much love put into the handles or the edges because they just get beat mercilessly in the woods for 15-30 days each summer. I do enjoy hanging handles and tuning up the tools. It is sort of therapeutic and satisfying.

 

[Gullet]

I put a new handle in my friend’s plumb Michigan pattern. House handle, boiled linseed oil 7 coats. I touched up the parts of the head that I had to flap disk smooth with gun blue. It took a really nice edge. It is pictured with the first axe that I rehandled 20 plus years ago. It is a Marshall wells zenith. Both axes were found without handles in the sheds at family properties.

Try heating the handle with a heat gun before applying BLO.
Then apply the BLO until it won't take anymore.
Lightly sand when dry (24 hours) & repeat.
It will prolly take only 3 coats.

 

[FTG-05]

Try heating the handle with a heat gun before applying BLO.
Then apply the BLO until it won't take anymore.
Lightly sand when dry (24 hours) & repeat.
It will prolly take only 3 coats.

Better yet, don't use BLO at all. I've tried it on 3-4 axe handles and after the first coat, maybe the 2nd, it just doesn't take any more and turns into a sticky mess.

Now, I use Raw linseed oil. Virgin handles soak it up like mother's milk. I'm doing three right now as we speak (well, after the rain stops); the wood just dries up and takes more, even an hour or two afterwards.

The downside to raw is that the big box stores don't have it (HD/Lowes), at least not the ones around here; same with the small hardware stores. So you might have to order it. I get mine from Wiseman Trading Co. Athens, AL: https://wisementrading.com/wood-working/axe-accessories/sunnyside-raw-linseed-oil/

 

[Gullet]

Better yet, don't use BLO at all. I've tried it on 3-4 axe handles and after the first coat, maybe the 2nd, it just doesn't take any more and turns into a sticky mess.

Now, I use Raw linseed oil. Virgin handles soak it up like mother's milk. I'm doing three right now as we speak (well, after the rain stops); the wood just dries up and takes more, even an hour or two afterwards.

The downside to raw is that the big box stores don't have it (HD/Lowes), at least not the ones around here; same with the small hardware stores. So you might have to order it. I get mine from Wiseman Trading Co. Athens, AL: https://wisementrading.com/wood-working/axe-accessories/sunnyside-raw-linseed-oil/

Sand to 120- 150 grit, then clean with rubbing alcohol (won't raise grain).
Then LIGHTLY heat with heat gun (not to darken wood) to open pores.
Then repeat lightly sanding between coats.
It works well...

 

[Gullet]

Better yet, don't use BLO at all. I've tried it on 3-4 axe handles and after the first coat, maybe the 2nd, it just doesn't take any more and turns into a sticky mess.

Now, I use Raw linseed oil. Virgin handles soak it up like mother's milk. I'm doing three right now as we speak (well, after the rain stops); the wood just dries up and takes more, even an hour or two afterwards.

The downside to raw is that the big box stores don't have it (HD/Lowes), at least not the ones around here; same with the small hardware stores. So you might have to order it. I get mine from Wiseman Trading Co. Athens, AL: https://wisementrading.com/wood-working/axe-accessories/sunnyside-raw-linseed-oil/

The thing about "Raw" Linseed Oil is it takes ALOT LONGER to dry!
Boiled Linseed Oil has chemicals included to dry in 24 hours or less.

 

[Ronaldo]

Rainy here this morning so I got the Hults Bruk and the Plumb hung. The Plumb had a bit smaller eye and appeared to be more symmetrical/uniform than the Hults. This is my first time hanging a head so it probably took too long, but I enjoyed it. We'll see if they stay tight. Now for some linseed oil.

 

[damifino]

Is there a specific purpose of a double bit axe head that is 13 1/2" wide, bit to bit?

I have one 13 1/2 and one 11 1/2" that belonged to my great Uncle who was logger in Northern California before the chainsaw was used.

 

[Squareground3691]

Is there a specific purpose of a double bit axe head that is 13 1/2" wide, bit to bit?

I have one 13 1/2 and one 11 1/2" that belonged to my great Uncle who was logger in Northern California before the chainsaw was used.

Specific needs, for different species of trees, like Doug Fir is much different than Cedar , penetration and chopping needs assuming,

 

[FTG-05]

The thing about "Raw" Linseed Oil is it takes ALOT LONGER to dry!
Boiled Linseed Oil has chemicals included to dry in 24 hours or less.

Not for the three that I was doing (until the rain came). I had them set up on the back of my pickup truck over a piece of black plastic. I'd coat'em and they'd be dry to the touch a couple hours later. I was able to repeat this 3-4 times per day. On the ends, you could see the oil just soak right into the wood.

Here's a couple pics; the three on the bottom are (were) virgin, the top hand maul was previously BLO'd; note how dry the three bottom ones look vs. the wet (and sticky) coating of the BLO'd handle.






BTW: That long handled tool is my hookaroon I made several years ago:





The "eye is made from 1/4x2" stock; the "hook" is a welded Gr5 bolt (1/2" maybe?, don't recall).

 

[FTG-05]

Another project to work on: An axe head I got from a local curb side "for free" pile.





No markings that I can tell. I'll *probably* regrind the head to make the edge symetrical, which might require re-heat treat. Oh well, life is tough, then you die.

I also go this poor steel wege:






Thanks for looking!

 

[davidwyby]

Is there a specific purpose of a double bit axe head that is 13 1/2" wide, bit to bit?

I have one 13 1/2 and one 11 1/2" that belonged to my great Uncle who was logger in Northern California before the chainsaw was used.

For chopping thru thick bark to make spring board pockets.

 

[Woodslasher]

Is there a specific purpose of a double bit axe head that is 13 1/2" wide, bit to bit?

I have one 13 1/2 and one 11 1/2" that belonged to my great Uncle who was logger in Northern California before the chainsaw was used.

Try looking up "puget sound axe" and you should find some info. Bladeforums has an excellent axe and tomahawk section loaded with info.

 

[damifino]

Try looking up "puget sound axe" and you should find some info. Bladeforums has an excellent axe and tomahawk section loaded with info

I looked up "puget sound axe" and thats 100% what I have. Thanks

For chopping thru thick bark to make spring board pockets.

I looked up "puget sound axe" (Woodslasher's sugestion) and yes, you are spot on with spring board pockets in thick bark. Thanks!

Thanks to all that responded.

 

[Squareground3691]

I looked up "puget sound axe" and thats 100% what I have. Thanks

I looked up "puget sound axe" (Woodslasher's sugestion) and yes, you are spot on with spring board pockets in thick bark. Thanks!

Thanks to all that responded.