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Toad22t

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Since we had this talk about leaning trees and different felling techniques. What notch would you use, conventional or humbolt. I wanna try a bore cut with these new angles. It's the hard learning tree in front. 20190119_124427.jpg
 

Skeans1

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Since we had this talk about leaning trees and different felling techniques. What notch would you use, conventional or humbolt. I wanna try a bore cut with these new angles. It's the hard learning tree in front. View attachment 160271

Myself humboldt always felt there’s more control off the stump.


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Wood Chopper

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Ok here is my latest filed chain. 25degrees Oregon exl full skip. looks like my side plate angle is too much for hard wood? I would be running this on a 90 cc saw. Once we get back to the woodlot after this freaking snow I’ll be able to put it in some wood


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843a9d7afa34d5696c72712e64eed102.jpg


Using 7/32 file in this guide

8d828ad989d41377a581e9c3d359d13c.jpg
 

RI Chevy

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Lol. Use an older chain. Or send it out to have someone square grind it for you. Then learn the angles and go from there.
My save edge files are nice, but don't seem to last very long. [emoji57]
 

chipper1

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Ok here is my latest filed chain. 25degrees Oregon exl full skip. looks like my side plate angle is too much for hard wood? I would be running this on a 90 cc saw. Once we get back to the woodlot after this freaking snow I’ll be able to put it in some wood


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
843a9d7afa34d5696c72712e64eed102.jpg


Using 7/32 file in this guide

8d828ad989d41377a581e9c3d359d13c.jpg
Looks great to me.
There are a few different things that will play into how well it will cut in hardwood on a 90cc saw; depth guages to deep it may struggle, length of the bar it may struggle if too long. Being full skip on a 90cc saw you should be able to run a 48 to 60" no problem if you can oil it lol.
I'd guess a stock 70cc saw would pull a 32" setup with a chain set up like that(filed and full skip) in hardwood no problem.
 

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Ok here is my latest filed chain. 25degrees Oregon exl full skip. looks like my side plate angle is too much for hard wood? I would be running this on a 90 cc saw. Once we get back to the woodlot after this freaking snow I’ll be able to put it in some wood


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
843a9d7afa34d5696c72712e64eed102.jpg


Using 7/32 file in this guide

8d828ad989d41377a581e9c3d359d13c.jpg
Looks real nice ,rakes look a little lower than i do ,like Philbert said ,one swipe on the front of the raker to round it off more will smooth out the chain some ,after about 4 touchups my general rule is 2 swipes on the rakes and a third to round the front ,seems to keep me about .025 for softwoods. ,That square takes a little bit to learn ,but is real smooth when cutting.
 

Toad22t

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So I'm digging this thread back up. After all the help you all gave me, my chains are cutting amazing. I have to brace my self when going into wood because the saw grabs and just rips.

So heres my question. When you sharpen semi chisel do you tilt the base 10*?
 

huskihl

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So I'm digging this thread back up. After all the help you all gave me, my chains are cutting amazing. I have to brace my self when going into wood because the saw grabs and just rips.

So heres my question. When you sharpen semi chisel do you tilt the base 10*?
"The book" says not to, but I've never tried
 

Philbert

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When you sharpen semi chisel do you tilt the base 10*?
Glad to hear that things are working better.

'Old school', rule of thumb, was to use the 10° down angle only on full-chisel chains. A few years ago Oregon started recommending it on many semi-chisel chains too; they said that objective testing showed a significant increase in cutting performance. STIHL does not recommend it.

So, the best advice is for you to try it on a couple of your chains, and see if you notice a significant difference. Also, if it is worth the extra effort.

Then please post your findings here in this thread again.

Philbert
 

Toad22t

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Glad to hear that things are working better.

'Old school', rule of thumb, was to use the 10° down angle only on full-chisel chains. A few years ago Oregon started recommending it on many semi-chisel chains too; they said that objective testing showed a significant increase in cutting performance. STIHL does not recommend it.

So, the best advice is for you to try it on a couple of your chains, and see if you notice a significant difference. Also, if it is worth the extra effort.

Then please post your findings here in this thread again.

Philbert

I don't run semi chisel chains. I'm sharpening one for my buddy. I may have to pick one up and try it out.
 

Philbert

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I don't run semi chisel chains. I'm sharpening one for my buddy. I may have to pick one up and try it out.
Because I use a grinder, the 10° 'down angle' requires a couple of extra steps / setting for each loop. Is not worth it for me, for general cutting. It also wastes a lot of extra material to go back and forth, especially from 10° back to 0°. But if someone likes it, it is pretty easy to keep up with a file or a grinder.

Philbert
 

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I just went through this this past winter, I have a bunch of old homelite #38 loops and the actual semi corner is definitely more round than the modern micro chisel or semi chisel chains I have. In my experience with the old chains dropping 10° hurt the cutting performance and keeping it 90° to the tooth helped. With the Oregon 27 .404 I didn't notice any difference.
 
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