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chipper1

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Better be back baring that one to fill the cut with chips, Maybe I'll try it this spring on some "low risk" hard leaners lol.
I don’t trust it but I am familiar with a couple coos bay cuts.
Non traditional here too, but many places it's the norm.
I also use a step cut with the skidding winch on my tractor. I use it a mainly on residential work as it will stand for me and I can walk to the tractor and hit the lever, bam right where I ask it to go(as long as I'm pulling directly against the lean), a remote winch would be nice for this :).
For every time I've had someone tell me it's unsafe I've cut multiple trees with no issues.
I have a small tractor so I use a much shorter "step" on my back cut. This method will also keep the tree from setting back on your bar, it's a great trick to have in your pocket when you have equipment on site to make the pull.
 

Toad22t

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I've had to use a version of the triangle cut, called the drunk beaver. I was cutting down an oak and the top got tangled into a big whitepine next to it. Well 3 saws and 4 bars later I finally got it down. I left the stump as a reminder to pay attention to your surroundings.



P.s. no saws or bars were hurt during this monkey vs football act.
 

chipper1

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You guys are posting all these cool falling videos and I'm just trying to figure out how to keep my face cut and back cut parallel to each other. Lol
It's all good. Theres a little trick I show guys just learning(not that I'm not still learning), you take a little branch and stick it in the notch on the opposite side of the tree and that will tell you where the corner is to give you a target for your bar. When you get into bigger trees and ones you can't just cut straight across from one side you can make a mark coming from the far side to where you want to finish before cutting. This does a couple things, it will give you a guideline, but much like filing it will teach you the muscle memory to do it without the guide like freehand filing.
I've had to use a version of the triangle cut, called the drunk beaver. I was cutting down an oak and the top got tangled into a big whitepine next to it. Well 3 saws and 4 bars later I finally got it down. I left the stump as a reminder to pay attention to your surroundings.



P.s. no saws or bars were hurt during this monkey vs football act.
Are the bars/saws still in the stump lol.
LOL. Where's the pics or vids?
I always run out of space on my memory card when those videos are being made:risas3:.
 
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Wood Chopper

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I saw this the other day and thought of you.
There's a couple other vids on their channel, but for guys learning it's pretty good and I figured you could pass it on.
I found it odd that they are all about the 10 degree angle. I have found it helpful for self feeding on Oregon chains, but not as much so on the stihl chains, anyone else?
@junkman , there is a bit of the why's answered in this video at least the basics.


I've watched this a few times now. I understand controlling the angle of the top plate. In regards to manipulating side plate and top plate cutting angle. What else can i do to dictate that other than the size of the file and if taking the gullet out that would let the file drop when free handing with no guide. In the video when they show the side plate at 90 degrees that sure does resemble square grind to me. That video really helped me think.

Just read again. If the file is 1/5th above the cutter, that would give "ideal" side angle and top plate cutting angle?
 
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chipper1

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I've watched this a few times now. I understand controlling the angle of the top plate. In regards to manipulating side plate and top plate cutting angle. What else can i do to dictate that other than the size of the file and if taking the gullet out that would let the file drop when free handing with no guide. In the video when they show the side plate at 90 degrees that sure does resemble square grind to me. That video really helped me think.

Just read again. If the file is 1/5th above the cutter, that would give "ideal" side angle and top plate cutting angle?
Ideal can change depending on what wood, saw your running, and the purpose(bucking, milling, racing, flush cutting a stump). Most chains come from the factory with a grind that will work okay in all situations, but they can be "tuned" to do specific tasks much better than they come from the factory.
Yes, about 20% is a good start far a chain that will perform similar to a factory grind.
The size of the file will play into that though as well.
 

Wood Chopper

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Thanks Chipper. Right now I am bucking up fire wood as fast as I can. Mainly oak and maple. If I understand I would want close to a 25 degree top plate angle and close to a 90 degree side plate angle.. with maybe a little bit of a forward lean. Using oregon EXL on a 660. My filing has been producing good results. I am thinking I can improve by decreasing the angles some
 

junkman

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Sup B !??

What is this triangle cut thing that you speak of ?

Details please ?
Here is a stump pic of an alder ,this one my side cuts nipped the hinge ,on bigger trees this is ok ,smaller try not to cut the hinge sides ,this one was about 20 inches across i think ,make a shallow face ,humboldt prefered (Face cut downward ) then from the sides nip the sides at an angle making the triangle ,do not walk behind a leaning alder ever when cutting i will add ,they blow out easy .once the 3 cuts are done ,make the back cut ,(I was trying to chair these trees so when it started popping i let it go to see if they would ,they just pulled the guts out ) the reason the sides are cut is to relieve pressure in the sapwood and getting you into the stable heartwood ,these trees were leaning about 2 oclock on a clock for angle ,if look at the stump picks can see the triangle and back cut .(Note if tree is hollow /rotten ,don't use this cut ,bore it )coos bay cut alder 026.JPG coos bay cut alder 027.JPG coos bay cut alder 028.JPG
 

Hedgerow

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Here is a stump pic of an alder ,this one my side cuts nipped the hinge ,on bigger trees this is ok ,smaller try not to cut the hinge sides ,this one was about 20 inches across i think ,make a shallow face ,humboldt prefered (Face cut downward ) then from the sides nip the sides at an angle making the triangle ,do not walk behind a leaning alder ever when cutting i will add ,they blow out easy .once the 3 cuts are done ,make the back cut ,(I was trying to chair these trees so when it started popping i let it go to see if they would ,they just pulled the guts out ) the reason the sides are cut is to relieve pressure in the sapwood and getting you into the stable heartwood ,these trees were leaning about 2 oclock on a clock for angle ,if look at the stump picks can see the triangle and back cut .(Note if tree is hollow /rotten ,don't use this cut ,bore it )View attachment 159957 View attachment 159958 View attachment 159959

Fiber puller...


Actually, thats what I use 90% of the time on heavy leaning trees.
It helps the saw move quicker through the back cut, allowing you to chase it down a little.

Note:
Face cut nice and open.. If it claps shut and you're still chasing, you may not like the results. At least on straight Hackberry or Ash trees.
 

Skeans1

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You guys are posting all these cool falling videos and I'm just trying to figure out how to keep my face cut and back cut parallel to each other. Lol

Practice, when I got broke in I was taught to walk in the back cut in or walk around with the tip to line up your cuts. For a level face it’s going to come down to what length of bar you’re running normally with a 32 on up you can feel it with your throttle palm.
0b3e732ad27382afd937ef3626376ed5.jpg

If you look close you can see where I dawged around the stump walking the tip around.
d327e6d02e8b790d857c350f86e834bf.jpg

This one you can see where I walked it around and missed just the corner of the sight cut and undercut.


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Skeans1

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Here is a stump pic of an alder ,this one my side cuts nipped the hinge ,on bigger trees this is ok ,smaller try not to cut the hinge sides ,this one was about 20 inches across i think ,make a shallow face ,humboldt prefered (Face cut downward ) then from the sides nip the sides at an angle making the triangle ,do not walk behind a leaning alder ever when cutting i will add ,they blow out easy .once the 3 cuts are done ,make the back cut ,(I was trying to chair these trees so when it started popping i let it go to see if they would ,they just pulled the guts out ) the reason the sides are cut is to relieve pressure in the sapwood and getting you into the stable heartwood ,these trees were leaning about 2 oclock on a clock for angle ,if look at the stump picks can see the triangle and back cut .(Note if tree is hollow /rotten ,don't use this cut ,bore it )View attachment 159957 View attachment 159958 View attachment 159959

Didn’t want to swing them?


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junkman

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Toad22t

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I like the top one,hard to see if edge of cutter has been rocked in pics ,but what i see should cut nice.

The second one I was coming down to fast into the gullet and using the side of the wheel for my top plate. I'll be running them this weekend and I'll give you guys some feed back.
 
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