Saw video thread

[t4driller]

Looks and sounds good, and I do like how you can lean on it!

The heavy hand edition...

 

[t4driller]

I lube the control lever with Vaseline, it helps. There is also a thread for fixing the fast idle setting if that is a problem. They are stiff if you don't lube them right away.

I lubed it, but not eith vaseline... ill give it a try[emoji16]

 

[huskihl]

Seemed like a nice day so I took some vids. All ported.

 

[RI Chevy]

Nice job Kevin! You sure have been busy! [emoji106]
I am going to put you on the spot. Which saw was the strongest? They all looked strong. 661 buzzes right along. The 064s looked torcqy.

 

[huskyboy]

Nice job Kevin! You sure have been busy! [emoji106]
I am going to put you on the spot. Which saw was the strongest? They all looked strong. 661 buzzes right along. The 064s looked torcqy.

The 661 looked faster to me just watching the videos but I could be wrong.

 

[RI Chevy]

To me too, just was curious for his opinion, as he built all of them. Put him right on the 8 ball. Lol

 

[huskihl]

Nice job Kevin! You sure have been busy! [emoji106]
I am going to put you on the spot. Which saw was the strongest? They all looked strong. 661 buzzes right along. The 064s looked torcqy.

661 feels the best. I didn't stopwatch anything, just the video timer. Dustin's is broke in. The rest have 6 or 8 cuts on them. Clint's and dall's are for a longer bar. Dustin's is a play saw and will clean up on the other 2 in square wood I think.

 

[huskihl]

To me too, just was curious for his opinion, as he built all of them. Put him right on the 8 ball. Lol

Clint's 064/66 can really be leaned on. I've never done 064's followed by an 066. There is a hell of a difference.

 

[RI Chevy]

Thank you Kevin. Keep up the good work. [emoji106]
Your building some strong saws.
Now, tell that slacker (Dallas) to get out and cut some wood. Lol

 

[Tpagel]

Worst saw video on the interwebs

Sent from my SM-J327V using Tapatalk

 

[ABarrick]

I watched my video again. The second the lower spike caught the wood, the chain locked up. I am not quite sure what to do to correct that, but just stating my observation.

The problem lies with the geometry of the two lowest spikes on a 5-point set or the spike below the lower bar rail on a 4 point. If the lower spike is long and pointy, with a shallow angle back towards the case, as soon as the tip touches the wood it acts as a wedge and literally pulls the bar tighter to the wood. This can/does overload the chain and will stall it. Absolute pita in hard wood. If the tip of the second spike from the bottom aligns evenly or below the top of the cutter(bottom side of bar) it will help prevent this. If the tip of that spike rides up a little higher, it allows the lower spike to act as a wedge.

I like the bigger spikes to help keep the saw off the wood when bucking but I usually modify the lower spike to form a much shorter point at a steeper angle. Makes the saw much friendlier to use. If it's on a 440/660 chassis I just order the older style 1122 spikes with turned up lower spike. On a 460/1, you have to modify the west coast spikes.

The 460 spikes are bad for chain stalling. Not as bad as the newer dolmar/Mikita ones but close. Modify the lower dog to look like the 361 dual dog kit and you'll be much happier.

 

[Brewz]

Piped 066, first run in timber
11000 Jenka Aussie Spotty Gum

 

[Brewz]

 

[RI Chevy]

The problem lies with the geometry of the two lowest spikes on a 5-point set or the spike below the lower bar rail on a 4 point. If the lower spike is long and pointy, with a shallow angle back towards the case, as soon as the tip touches the wood it acts as a wedge and literally pulls the bar tighter to the wood. This can/does overload the chain and will stall it. Absolute pita in hard wood. If the tip of the second spike from the bottom aligns evenly or below the top of the cutter(bottom side of bar) it will help prevent this. If the tip of that spike rides up a little higher, it allows the lower spike to act as a wedge.

I like the bigger spikes to help keep the saw off the wood when bucking but I usually modify the lower spike to form a much shorter point at a steeper angle. Makes the saw much friendlier to use. If it's on a 440/660 chassis I just order the older style 1122 spikes with turned up lower spike. On a 460/1, you have to modify the west coast spikes.

The 460 spikes are bad for chain stalling. Not as bad as the newer dolmar/Mikita ones but close. Modify the lower dog to look like the 361 dual dog kit and you'll be much happier.

View attachment 109010 View attachment 109011

I will try that. Thank you. [emoji106]

 

[ABarrick]

Hey, I was running .325 on that steal. I want to slap some 3/8 on it and have a rematch

 

[Wolverine]

Hey, I was running .325 on that steal. I want to slap some 3/8 on it and have a rematch

You been square filing yet AJ?

 

[cus_deluxe]

 

[Deets066]

Race chain on the pole saw?

 

[cus_deluxe]

Race chain on the pole saw?

Totally.

 

[cus_deluxe]

Lol