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Saw Chain for Hardwoods

junkman

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What are the factory angles of most square-ground chains? I've bought a few Oregon and Stihl square-ground chains in the last few years. They definitely stay sharper longer than round chisel 3/8.
I have a few new ones ,i can put one on my round grinder tonight and see where it lines up with the wheel .i think close to 20 degrees by eyeball on stihl .404
 

Ron660

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I have a few new ones ,i can put one on my round grinder tonight and see where it lines up with the wheel .i think close to 20 degrees by eyeball on stihl .404
The angle line on top of the cutter looks maybe 10 or so.
 

junkman

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The angle line on top of the cutter looks maybe 10 or so.
this is 10 degrees on my usg for milling
ripping chain 011.JPG

this is off the roll .404 full skip square
CIMG7477.JPG

this is off the roll .404 round full comp ,(it has hit the ground so the corner is gone)
CIMG7478.JPG
You can see how much stronger the outer corner is on the square (second pic ) than the round (third pic )
 

Ron660

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this is 10 degrees on my usg for milling
View attachment 5716

this is off the roll .404 full skip square
View attachment 5719

this is off the roll .404 round full comp ,(it has hit the ground so the corner is gone)
View attachment 5720
You can see how much stronger the outer corner is on the square (second pic ) than the round (third pic )
So the second pic, full skip square, top angle is around 15 to 20? And the bottom round full comp is around 30+?
 

Ron660

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I have a few new ones ,i can put one on my round grinder tonight and see where it lines up with the wheel .i think close to 20 degrees by eyeball on stihl .404
Do you use square tooth on all your 70cc, and 70cc+, saws?
 

mdavlee

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Would you recommend using square-ground chain on a ported 372 using a 24" bar....or just full comp round in hardwood?
If it's chisel I use square. You could probably do 404 at that length.
 

junkman

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So the second pic, full skip square, top angle is around 15 to 20? And the bottom round full comp is around 30+?
eyeballing i think the square looks close to 15 ,and 25 on the round .404 ,i will put them on the usg and verify though ,it has all the angles on the vise to tell what they are

on the 70cc question ,yes i run square on all of them ,milling i use round though just because it is too hard to get 10 degrees on my square grinder ,i do not file anything normally ,i just run off the grinder chain .
 

Ron660

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If it's chisel I use square. You could probably do 404 at that length.
I didn't know if the 372 had enough torque to noodle or cut stumps with 404. For the 372, if using square on a 24" bar would you recommend full skip or semi-chisel?
 

mdavlee

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I would think so. The 044 that's stock here was running full skip on a 32" and 24" of full comp.
 

Ron660

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eyeballing i think the square looks close to 15 ,and 25 on the round .404 ,i will put them on the usg and verify though ,it has all the angles on the vise to tell what they are

on the 70cc question ,yes i run square on all of them ,milling i use round though just because it is too hard to get 10 degrees on my square grinder ,i do not file anything normally ,i just run off the grinder chain .
Since I don't have a grinder I only hand file both round and square. So far my sharpening on square chains have been running smooth but not staying sharp as long as factory.
 

junkman

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Since I don't have a grinder I only hand file both round and square. So far my sharpening on square chains have been running smooth but not staying sharp as long as factory.
if i can see an image of how your cutters look ,may be able to help with a longer lasting chain
 

Wolverine

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I've been millin' with 36" of full skip square (3/8 .063 stihl rs) and I'm really surprised at how well its holding an edge. Only needing 2 very light strokes of the file to get back to razor sharp.
 

nk14zp

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.404 Chipper chain semi. Won't win a cookie race but in certain conditions it can be the highest production choice. Running the most suitable chain for the task is more important than any particular chain type IME. As for filing/grinding, knowing how to tune and detune a chain for conditions is just as important. I find in many chain threads, there is as much or more misinformation punched out than useful proven facts. Best practice in one part of the globe can be almost useless in another. Many variables, knowing why to do what when is what really counts & that won't come from time spent on forums. Part of being a good sawyer is about being able to adapt and change according to conditions one may face. That requires many different chains and filing/grinding techniques.
You should tune the chain to match your saw along with conditions.
The way I sharpen my 2095 for hardwood isn't going to help you sharpen a minimac.
 

junkman

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Looks like the square .404 was at 20 on top if i set the side plate at 15
The roumd was at 30 if i set the side at 15 on the usg stihl grinder.
 

Terry Hennessy

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I think I saw ripping chain angles at 10 degrees. Ever use that angle?
From the angle charts, ~90% of chain is 25-deg, but a FEW are 3o-deg. I can imagine that 30-deg cuts better for hardwood, but dulls faster? They say milling chain angles (0-10-deg) are dangerous for cross-cutting (higher risk of kickback).
 

CR888

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Top plate angle is one thing but inner top plate angle is the one I reduce for slower but more durable chain.
 

Hedgerow

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Top plate angle is one thing but inner top plate angle is the one I reduce for slower but more durable chain.
Yup..
Both being more blunt will leave more metal to support the working corner and the inner top being more blunt really helps the top plate stay a "useable" edge..
 

Hedgerow

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FWIW, .404 is a dream to sharpen in the field..
That big cutter has all sorts of space to get around it with a file..
I despise .325 for having the opposite characteristics..
 
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