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Hedgerow

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I'll bet I filed that stupid .325 6 times yesterday on the tailgate. We hit more crap in those oak tops than what you could imagine.
The bigger cutters held up way better.
The logging crew managed to get gravel in the tops when they were pushing them around.
 

jmssaws

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Chisel Is only for play here, if I only cut down chisel would work but bucking on the yard it's not a option. When it's muddy and it always is you'd be lucky to get a couple cuts from a chisel chain.
 

mdavlee

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They like 3/8 at 16" never tried 404 on a 346.
The dirty hippy hooked me up with a 20" 325" I've been playing with. Probably go back to 16" 3/8" eventually.
 

Firewood Bandit

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My logger buddies run chisel .404 on their 660/661's. The guy on the landing cuts a LOT of dirt since they are cable skidded logs. They just think semi chisel is too slow and having to sharpen very often is just the price of admission. You never see them cut with a dull chain either. They are constantly sharpening whenever they have a free moment waiting for the skidder. I get a lot of log cut offs from the landing and agree that the semi chisel is just too slow, the 3/8ths I use dulls even quicker than the .404.
 

Philbert

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I have heard of using a 25° top plate for hardwood, and frozen wood; 30° for general, all-around wood; and 35° for softwood.

Some of this will vary with your saw, your wood, etc. Going to a different pitch chain potentially raises other issues.

Best would be to start with 2 loops of identical chain, file one to 25° and one to 30°, use them side-by-side in the same wood on the same saw, and see if you first notice any difference in speed. then try to track them for longevity. To be fair, you will have to work on keeping your file depth and cutter length as close as possible.

You may decide on 27-1/2°!

Philbert
 

darkimpulse

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Lots of good info in this thread, one question I have though. Currently cutting frozen hardwood on a LGX 3/8 chain. Oregon recommends a .025" on the depth gauge. Anyone play around with more aggressive depth or Should I just stay with the recommended setting?
 

nixon

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Lots of good info in this thread, one question I have though. Currently cutting frozen hardwood on a LGX 3/8 chain. Oregon recommends a .025" on the depth gauge. Anyone play around with more aggressive depth or Should I just stay with the recommended setting?
Get a progressive raker gauge such as the husqvarna roller guide ,or if you can find one a Carlton file o plate.
 

beaglebriar

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Lots of good info in this thread, one question I have though. Currently cutting frozen hardwood on a LGX 3/8 chain. Oregon recommends a .025" on the depth gauge. Anyone play around with more aggressive depth or Should I just stay with the recommended setting?

A friend had me try a chain he'd sharpened with a timberline and set the depth gauges to .035. It was sharp as hell but way too grabby and actually set my chain brake twice while bucking. I prefer .025 in hardwood. Chain stays sharp longer and its easier on the saw IMO.
 

Locust Cutter

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I may have to find a 24" bar in .404 for my 372xp for when I'm taking on crappy trees in Hedgerows...
 

psuiewalsh

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I used a do25 from left coast and an adapter.

Sent from my C771 using Tapatalk 2
 

Ron660

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I may have to find a 24" bar in .404 for my 372xp for when I'm taking on crappy trees in Hedgerows...
I might try a square-ground 3/8, rather than round LGX, on a 24" bar with my ported 372 for those hard live oaks and hickories. I'll leave the 404 for my 660.
 

psuiewalsh

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Has anyone tried the carbide coated chain that Left coast is selling? It looks like it is 48 cents a driver. Seems like it might be a good choice for dozer piles and such.
 

Locust Cutter

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I'm going to buy some before too long in order to take care of a large dead Hedge pile which demolishes chisel cutters and is rather abusive to semi-chisel.
 

Hedgerow

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Carbide will really depress a person expecting it to actually cut wood even close to the speed of a reasonable steel chain.
 
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