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mdavlee

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I believe the 372 build off was in 2011.

You may be right. It's been a while since I got to Terry's. I went down and got the lathe I have but haven't been to a gtg since he got the store in town.
 

Stump Shot

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This was one the first saws I built from junk. It came back a little over a month later blown up, turned out they really do need oil mixed with the gas. So to keep the performance level close to the same, I ordered a Meteor Piston and Cylinder for it. Just going by what I remembered, I'd say it ran as good as the Stihl cylinder. I bet that guy remembers to mix his fuel from now on! He really liked the saw so he was happy to have it back. Don't blame him, these are really good firewood saws.

IMG_20150519_075538_901.jpg
 

Mattyo

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J, if I drive a screwdriver in next to the mag chassis I'll scratch the chassis, which will leak for sure. you are saying drive the screwdriver in rubber side? and then straighten back out? ....man, when I do that the seal is BUGGARD, but thats how I do do it....with my hooked screwdriver.

i'll pressure test it, and if it doesn't leak I'll leave it. the pto side I'm not worried about, thats the one I did the vid on.... its the flywheel side that may have popped a spring.


Malk.... youre welcome :)
 

jmssaws

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I'm not telling you to reuse the seal I'm saying it can be done and that they are way tougher than you think.
If you rolled the spring out or not should be very obvious,I really don't know how it could be done unless you was installing it with a explosion. Lol
Don't remove the seal unless you know it's leaking.
 

Mattyo

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the lip on the crank causes the seal rubber to invert...had one half on there an the spring popped. so it does happen. i'll pressure test it and make sure its ok, though i'm tempted to just rip it out, and use my new method for putting a new seal in with a brandy new seal.

i have plenty of seals, so I'm not trying to re-use :)
 

jmssaws

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J, if I drive a screwdriver in next to the mag chassis I'll scratch the chassis, which will leak for sure. you are saying drive the screwdriver in rubber side? and then straighten back out? ....man, when I do that the seal is BUGGARD, but thats how I do do it....with my hooked screwdriver.

i'll pressure test it, and if it doesn't leak I'll leave it. the pto side I'm not worried about, thats the one I did the vid on.... its the flywheel side that may have popped a spring.


Malk.... youre welcome :)
Flywheel side seal should be even harder to mess up because of the taper,your fine ain't nothing wrong with the seal.
 

jmssaws

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the lip on the crank causes the seal rubber to invert...had one half on there an the spring popped. so it does happen. i'll pressure test it and make sure its ok, though i'm tempted to just rip it out, and use my new method for putting a new seal in with a brandy new seal.

i have plenty of seals, so I'm not trying to re-use :)
If you have plenty of seals I would just replace it.
 

riverrat2

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Been a good while. 372 build off was before that one.
Yeah, I ended up 5th out of 27 saws in that one,,, but it runs a good bit better now after I changed the port timing numbers some and gave it a bit of ignition timing advance

Woot Woot:b1:At least I beat Smelling!!! LOLOL!!!!
 

mdavlee

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Yeah, I ended up 5th out of 27 saws in that one,,, but it runs a good bit better now after I changed the port timing numbers some and gave it a bit of ignition timing advance

Woot Woot:b1:At least I beat Smelling!!! LOLOL!!!!

That was fun except the thunderstorm and my truck door open.
 

Mattyo

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20160709_232631.jpg

The taper is not even...not like a 455 rancher....there IS a lip. So if the seal partially inverts as it goes over the lip the spring pops.

I'll swap it out tomorrow with my coke can technique...and then sleep better at night.
 

mdavlee

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I know right!!! That freaking tent/wind gust about took some of those younger boys for a ride!!!!
Yeah it did. He was floating in the air for a few seconds.
 

Chainsaw Jim

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Ok that sounds too easy to be true.

Is it a strait forward bolt on and match it with one of the aftermarket 026/046/066 coils?
The poly flywheel is a direct match for the 064 shaft taper. There's the little plastic rim on the backside that needs trimmed down about a millimeter so it seats all the way down without bumping into the case. I'm sure there are other coils that will work with this flywheel that match the case bolt pattern better but here is a pic of an 1128 with a notch taken out of the bolt hole to give it something to hold it down.2016-03-24 12.29.42.jpg
 

Chainsaw Jim

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Well this thing is trying to get there. I tried an rwj4 carb out to see if it would make much difference. It isn't too bad. I'm going to throw a wj-39 on it next.
 

huskihl

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Made some progress tonight on the 394. Still need to get a piston. When I tore the saw down to clean it, the cylinder wouldn't lift off. Something was hanging onto the piston. Looked through the intake and could see something boogered up on the piston skirt. I had to grind that area on the skirt to remove some metal so I could get the jug off. Any ideas what caused it? Jug came loose? All 4 bearings were good. Carb butterfly screw maybe?
20160709_215646.jpg
 

hseII

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Well this thing is trying to get there. I tried an rwj4 carb out to see if it would make much difference. It isn't too bad. I'm going to throw a wj-39 on it next.

Whatcha got there?
 
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