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dall

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you have the 262 just take your time and check and double check as you go
 

malk315

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262 XP is maybe the perfect saw to do your first teardown and rebuild. They are dirt simple. Almost intuitive.

I know -- I'm still chicken though!

A local buddy's older 55 needs to be gone through I may muck with that saw as I think it's similar in simplicity (from the same era).
I was even thinking of getting another 262 to play with.
 

jmssaws

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I know -- I'm still chicken though!

A local buddy's older 55 needs to be gone through I may muck with that saw as I think it's similar in simplicity (from the same era).
I was even thinking of getting another 262 to play with.
No point in being chicken,it's made from parts that can be bought and it's not brain surgery it's a chainsaw.
 

Mattyo

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J, got a question, on my 394, how will I know if that stupid spring pops out of the seal AFTER I've inserted it.... there's no way to go back and check without removing the seal ...which of course ruins it....

will it simply fail a pressure test?
 

malk315

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No point in being chicken,it's made from parts that can be bought and it's not brain surgery it's a chainsaw.

With what you guys do to these saws you are a brain surgeon in my book! I saw that picture of the cluster of grinding tools you posted... that you keep in your in Operating Room.

I feel like I've derailed this thread -- carry on gentlemen.
 

jmssaws

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J, got a question, on my 394, how will I know if that stupid spring pops out of the seal AFTER I've inserted it.... there's no way to go back and check without removing the seal ...which of course ruins it....

will it simply fail a pressure test?
It will leak.
It's fine unless you did something pretty bad to it,there tough.
When I was a kid I use to drive seals out and straighten them back up and reuse them.
 

huskihl

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J, got a question, on my 394, how will I know if that stupid spring pops out of the seal AFTER I've inserted it.... there's no way to go back and check without removing the seal ...which of course ruins it....

will it simply fail a pressure test?
It'll usually look like the rubber part isn't in all the way. I watched your video and I think it's in right. I used your method last night on my 394. It works perfectly
 

dall

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malk i have split probably 25 saws its not a big deal the port work these builders do is above my talents so take the plunge and do the 262
 

Mattyo

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how do you drive the seals back out? the chassis is all together, and the bearing is in....
 

dall

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i have the stihl puller and also i use a hooked screw driver
 

jmssaws

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I'd drive a little screwdriver in it on the edge and pop it out then straighten the edge back up.

I haven't done it in 20 years but back then I would make or reuse everything I could and I learned a lot from doing that.

Lots of time the pto side seal can be popped out with little damage to it.
 

malk315

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Malk, you have my vids.... just follow along :) simple!

Matty your vids have helped me a lot w/ clutch and oiler removal when my clutch drum shattered and I needed to flip the spiral washer that was backwards way back when.
I've watched pretty much all of your 262 videos... Not sure how many guys say thank you for doing that... so THANK YOU!
 

mdavlee

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Cool beans,, I Just don't have enough hrs in the day working a regular job, to get to the ones I want to work on, The last saw I built (MS 460) ran third @ T Landrums 460 buildoff GTG,,, I think that was 6 yrs ago!!!!!

Gotta do a carby and fuel line on my BIL's 028 Super next month when I am on Vacation in CT/NY Up in Lake Sacandaga

Been a good while. 372 build off was before that one.
 
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